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Supersport (Sigma) Starting issues


BurwellSupersport

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Hi, 

I've now had my Supersport for 4 months and am loving it (2000 miles so far, including a semi regular - and now more fun - 45 mile work commute).  

But...I tried to start it on Sunday morning (after a fun drive) without luck.  All is well up to the point i turn the key to start (imobiliser deactivated, pumps whiring etc) when all that happens is a rapid fire clicking from the engine bay.  I've tried again this evening with the same result.

After an internet (and forum) search I believe its either the solenoid not engaging properly or the starter motor, does anyone have any tips as to how/where I troubleshoot?  Am i barking up the wrong tree (and how do I find out)?

One of the potential causes is that my brother bundled into the car in his usual "gracious" manner on Saturday and stuffed his bag above his knees, I cant see that he dislodged anything obvious (the flasher repeater was suspiciously displaced...) and i've pushed everything back into place.  I've also charged the battery (to eliminate that as a variable- its only 2 years/2400 miles old)

The car will "bump/push" start (i needed to to get it home) so I dont think the issue is further downstream than solenoid/starter.

Any tips would be gratefully appreciated, I'm a relative novice when it comes to engines etc (thats one of the reasons I bought the car - to learn).

Thanks in advance!!!!

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  1. There is a widely observed fault that causes this. The relay in the MFRU fails and doesn't feed enough smoke to the solenoid. Fixes are available.
  2. Check your battery voltage at rest, during the attempt to start and at 3,000 rpm so we can be sure that isn't the problem.
  3. Check all relevant feeds and earths: visual inspection and see if anything is loose and tighten it. Then, if that hasn't fixed it, disconnect them all, clean the surfaces and reconnect.

Jonathan

 

 

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It just sounds as if as previously suggested that somehow not enough current is getting to the starter motor. Perhaps Jonathan is right and a relay is not passing enough current. OR both batteries are not good enough. 

Banner batteries seem a bit weak  and run down very quickly and I now always leave my car on a "conditioner" type of charger in the garage.  I have had at least 4 Banners since 2003 and 49,000 miles.

I bought my Halfords "Conditioner" type charger many years ago and the lead from the battery  is connected to the back of the lower wishbone with cable tyes. It has a male and female  connector with a protective cover and so easy to plug into the charger connector and avoids having to open the bonnet. Just remember to detach when  you move the car.

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my car has an isolator and my battery died.  It wouldnt trickle charge (something i bought after i had car a while) and even when i tried to jump start and voltage was reporting as ok it didnt start the Caterham.  In the end i replaced battery and it was 100%.

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Thanks for the tips guys.  I had already contacted Caterham about this and disapointingly they suggested (in their first response) that i needed a new starter for £260 + VAT... Jonathan I'll definitey be looking through all your suggestions before i take that option.  In terms of the MFRU issue, how do i prove that? (I assume the acroynm is MainFuseRelayUnit).

Jez, as you can tell i'm quite suspicious of my brothers gracious entry to the car... everything looks ok but i'll take them all out and put them back in again on Saturday just to prove it.

Pat, some good ideas there.  After trying Jonathan's thoughts i'll try jump starting the car from the daily driver and then may well copy your suggestion.

I cant see the contents of the links either, a shame as i'm sure they're helpful!

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  • MFRU: Multi Function Relay Unit (although if unreliable other options for the first two letters are available). I'm not sure how it works on your car but somewhere there's a relay that feeds the solenoid.
  • When you've done the simple bits there's a direct diagnostic test of running a new jump wire direct from the battery to the solenoid.
  • You're not at this point yet, but here's the fix from Alcester Racing Sevens.

Jonathan

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All, in the end it was due to an ID10T issue due to PICNIC (Problem in Cockpit, not in Caterham).  It was the battery.  Thank you all for your advice on this.  Pat, i'm going to follow your advice in the winter and do the same.  How did you connect it to the battery?  did you "just" cut the wires from the charger/conditioner?  Any chance of some photos (Battery, lower wishbone connection without charger, lower wishbone with it connected)?   Thank you again.  Mike

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Well done.

Most people who use conditioning chargers fit a "cigar lighter" socket under the dash in front of the passenger side. That can be used for charging the battery (without removing the bonnet) and to power 'phones, satnav devices, inspection lamps etc. If you want to do it that way there are lots of details in the archives. Do you have a battery master switch and would you like USB power?

Jonathan

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Glad you got it sorted. I'd also recommend a 12v socket in the passenger footwell and using a battery conditioner that has a suitable adapter. I use a CTEK conditioner that has an optional adapter, like this. Makes using the conditioner so quick and easy.

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