Violet Elizabeth Posted September 10, 2014 Share Posted September 10, 2014 So, after my battery problems at Brands last week, I have been doing some diagnostics. GSXR1000 K2, with a new Regulator Rectifier and a new uprated Stator. New Banner battery. 12.8V across the terminals. 15mA "leakage" current. Pulses up and down a bit as the immobiliser LED comes on. R/R is coming up as 0V525 ish on a diode test across Red/Black and the 3 phases. On a resistor test across the 3 phases of the alternator it doesn't read anything i.e the reading doesn't budge from when the probes are not connected. So am assuming this means they haven't shorted. However, it simply doesn't charge. When started, the voltage drops to just above 12 but doesn't vary with rpm. Hence it slowly loses charge when running. Where to go next ? AC output of the alternator ? Edited by - Violet Elizabeth on 10 Sep 2014 13:47:24 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted September 10, 2014 Share Posted September 10, 2014 I did post a link to a diagnostic flowchart a while back - certainly helped me get to the bottom of my blackbird charging issue (stator burnt out/shorting to casing). You should be able to search in TT, but I'll have a look for it myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Mackenzie Posted September 10, 2014 Share Posted September 10, 2014 Here is the flowchart I use to sort out a charging fault with a Fireblade engine: https://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf Cheers Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Richard Price Posted September 10, 2014 Area Representative Share Posted September 10, 2014 Quoting Violet Elizabeth: On a resistor test across the 3 phases of the alternator it doesn't read anything i.e the reading doesn't budge from when the probes are not connected. So am assuming this means they haven't shorted. [pQuote] When you measure resistance between any two phase windings (I 'm assuming you have just three phase connections, plus a couple for excitation?) you should see some resistance (I 'd guess at maybe 100 ohms, but that is only a guess). If you are seeing infinite resistance, then that sounds like u/s windings or connections. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violet Elizabeth Posted September 10, 2014 Author Share Posted September 10, 2014 Yeah, I have been using the Electrex World fault finding guide posted a while back. The one above seems more comprehensive, although a little confusing. To test the RR you connect the red lead up to the red wire from the RR but leave it connected to the bike. So am I having to jam the probe down the back of the connector ? So I performed the diode test on the RR instead, which checks out. I shall try the above Voltage test too I guess. It is the bit about the stator that I am not sure about. There are the 3 phase yellow wires. I get 1.5Ohms across all 3. But infinite between -ve and them. Not sure if that is right ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violet Elizabeth Posted September 10, 2014 Author Share Posted September 10, 2014 Quoting Richard Price: When you measure resistance between any two phase windings (I 'm assuming you have just three phase connections, plus a couple for excitation?) you should see some resistance (I 'd guess at maybe 100 ohms, but that is only a guess). If you are seeing infinite resistance, then that sounds like u/s windings or connections. My mistake. I get 1.5ohms between them. But infinite to -ve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon.Rogers1 Posted September 10, 2014 Share Posted September 10, 2014 I had the same issue over last winter. I did a partial test which looked ok on the RR. Then after much other fault finding I returned and measured everything on the RR in accordance with the table/matrix. 1 reading was not correct. Replaced the RR and it all worked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violet Elizabeth Posted September 11, 2014 Author Share Posted September 11, 2014 Thanks. Back to multimeter ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violet Elizabeth Posted September 20, 2014 Author Share Posted September 20, 2014 Right, back from the garage after a bit of delay.... All 3 phases from the stator are producing 73V @ 5000rpm. RR diode tests all check out. Back to the fault finding guide.... "Let the engine idle, and connect the BLACK multimeter lead to the to the battery Positive (+) terminal. Connect the RED output wire of the RR. Leave the RR connected to the bike. Check meter reading, with engine idling." More than 0.2V >>>>>> Yes, it was 0.4 V. Bad connection in the positive lead from RR to battery Positive (+). Check this connection on both sides, as well as the wire. Many times connectors and fuse block are suspect. This is a high current draw connection, and it is critical this connection is tight and clean. Fix problem and return to Start. So I guess we are now back in Caterham-Land not Suzuki land... I am struggling a little with where the DC + goes from the RR. I can follow it back to bulkhead, it goes into the top of a black "thing" attached to the bulkhead, and from there the thick battery style red wire comes out, goes into the tunnel, one assumes the fuse box, and then back out to the +ve side of the battery. I can check the resistance all the way to the "thing" (yes, yes, I know) and when the immobilizer is armed there is no connection, but it seems a bit odd then the immobilizer is off. Where should I be looking next ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted September 20, 2014 Member Share Posted September 20, 2014 Could you draw a circuit diagram of the physical components and connections as well as the electrical circuits? Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violet Elizabeth Posted September 20, 2014 Author Share Posted September 20, 2014 Mostly it would have "thing" The "thing" referred to above appears to be the main 30A fuse holder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violet Elizabeth Posted September 20, 2014 Author Share Posted September 20, 2014 Which may well make sense. Stator (AC) > RR (DC) > 30A Fuse "thing" > ....then I am not entirely sure, under the dash to the imobiliser I guess ..... > Battery +Ve It is the bit in the middle I am not entirely sure about. I can't easily get to it ☹️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felixgogo Posted September 20, 2014 Share Posted September 20, 2014 That link... https://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf Doesn't work for me - I get a '403 Forbidden' message... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violet Elizabeth Posted September 20, 2014 Author Share Posted September 20, 2014 It is on this page. http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/diagnosis-center/fault-finding-guide Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felixgogo Posted September 20, 2014 Share Posted September 20, 2014 And I get a 403 on that link. Weird. Is it cos I in Hong Kong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted September 20, 2014 Member Share Posted September 20, 2014 Link works for me. Could be. Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violet Elizabeth Posted September 20, 2014 Author Share Posted September 20, 2014 Odd. http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felixgogo Posted September 20, 2014 Share Posted September 20, 2014 lovely - that one works. Ta! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violet Elizabeth Posted September 20, 2014 Author Share Posted September 20, 2014 Easier to fix than my charging circuit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative bluenose Posted September 21, 2014 Area Representative Share Posted September 21, 2014 Nothing specific to add to your fault finding but worth getting the Haynes Motorcycle Electrical Techbook ISBN 1859604714 . £25 from Amazon. Lots of stuff on charging circuits. Good luck. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violet Elizabeth Posted September 21, 2014 Author Share Posted September 21, 2014 Thanks. But I think the bike bit is fine. Or at least that is the way it looks. So it may be in the circuit back to the battery. And that has immobiliser, fia switch and cigar socket for charging. So all a bit complicated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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