Felixgogo

As far as fitting - I posted about my fitting with pics and links I used on: /forum/techtalk/fitting-aircraft-fuel-cap Hope that helps, Thanks - Ian

Oh - I have no idea why that has posted my topic 6 times!!!

A strange one. As the weather is improving - it's time to dig out the toys - both my Porsche and Seven live on CTEK trickle chargers, and whilst in HK, they have been in this state on and off for a number of years. All good and no issues. Last week I tried to start the Porsche - just got clicking and warning messages - checked battery - holding 10v or so. Did a deep charge from the NOCO charger - back to 13.8v, but fell away immediately I tried to start the car. Got a new battery from Halfords (off the shelf, and rigged a temp supply whilst changing to keep memories etc). Car started ok, and is fine now. Checked the details - battery was the original, and at 11 years old I didn't mind having to change it. Car is now out of warranty, so didn't go down the Porsche OEM battery route as this would have been 4-500 pounds. Yesterday, in preparation to go to the Midlands meet - I tried to start the Seven, exactly the same issue - battery at around 9.8v, and recovered via a deep charge, but wouldn't start the car and fell back immediately. The cars were on trickle from two different CTEK chargers, a Polar 5.3, and a standard 5.3. Both for a number of months - the seven had not been started since last October. The Seven Banner battery is around 6 years old, and the second one, the first having lasted over 10 years. Is this just age (the batteries - not me) - or are the CTEK tricklers cooking the batteries here?

Sorry to bring up an old thread - but I managed to get the seven out for a quick warm up drive, and during the journey by mistake turned off the ignition whilst fumbling for the indicators! So I swapped the switch for a locking APEM switch, so one has to pull on a spring loaded part to the toggle, to move it from either position. A little more insurance I hope.

Thanks - gone to a new home.

Sadly going in the recycling next Wednesday - just not enough space!

I have a mainly complete (with a few missing) set of Low Flying magazines, from 2001 to 2011. Free for collection from NW Leicestershire. Thanks Ian

In the end I didn't like the guarded toggle, it was too plasticky, so I placed the switch by itself between the oil pressure and temp gauge, as Tazio recommended, I think it looks OK.

And finished - thanks for all the guidance!

thanks - that's exactly where I'd like mine - but I must have a different dashboard to you, there's a tube running across the dashboard just below there - there's no way the switch with it's toggle guard could fit there. I'm stumped...

Hi - I'm the planning process of fitting a guarded red toggle switch to my S3 seven, and all the usual places for this switch seem a bit comprised, i.e. too close to the steering wheel and all the danger of switching off by mistake whilst cornering. Where have everyone else placed their guarded ignition switches.....?

thanks 7SW - cap fitted. It was a 8/10 tricky job - but straightforward after looking at those pictures you linked to.

Hi - following on from a 'what are you doing during lockdown', I mentioned that I had an aircraft fuel cap, but was a bit nervous about fitting it. Looking at the existing Rover cap, and the filler neck behind - they seem identical, so all good there. The thing I'm nervous about is I read threads on here that the little flap in the filler neck needs to be knocked out. Is this still the case?

Neil - thanks for the notes - blimey that's a lot of work! But it seems I'm on the right track, I don't want to buy a polisher - when I have a random sander already. But thanks for proving the concept - it proves it needs machinery to get the best finish. Bricol - thanks also - I'll do just that, I'll get a polishing bonnet on the sander and try Mother's - cheers!

After seeing a pic on here somewhere (can't find it again), I was moved to polish the alloy fuel tank, just the bit that can be seen from the rear (very low). My arm is about to drop off! And I've not got a mirror like finish yet. Any tips to polish up the alloy (i've got peeks and autoglym metal polish) - can I use my random orbit sander as a polish machine...?

Or better still, upgrade the plastic toggle switches with these quality metal APEM ones: https://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Apem_Toggle_Switches.html A straight swap, and all types available. Cheers Ian

As this thread is about half hood side poppers rather than general poppers on the boot, I thought I'd share what I did when I fitted my half hood. I wasn't really keen on the 'stacked' popper idea, and I noticed that there was a rivet on almost the same place, but inside the car, one of those holding the interior panels on. I drilled these out, and replaced them with a popper base, and then refitted the popper top on the strap the other way round: I have since upgraded these with Tenax fittings, as I found the sideways pull on the poppers was too much for standard poppers. The Tenax base I used was a self tapping one, and the lift button button on the strap resists the hood pull very well, and is easy to remove when you lift the button. I think this is a better solution to the half hood side straps, and avoids any alteration on the boot cover. Cheers - Ian

And Sold. Many thanks

Eeek - new tacho? Oh dear, I was hoping it was a sensor issue or similar. OK, I'll monitor it and see how bad it gets. Cheers - Ian

I have a almost unused EVO Carcoon for a Caterham S3, sized to just fit - so to not take up any more space than necessary. With a spare wheel it just fits, without a spare you would have a few more inches to play with. I have used it twice, and then extended the central heating into the garage making the Carcoon redundant. It has sat on a shelf since. It is the red version, and has only been deployed in a clean dry garage. I would like 250 pounds please, and to be collected from LE67. I think new they are around 370. Thanks Ian PS - cash on collection after 27th July please.

I have started to get an issue where the rev counter 'goes crazy'. It seems to be after more revs, but has also happened at low revs too. The rev counter sweeps and flutters about, then settles, only to do it again later. Any thoughts?

Thanks gents - you have solved a strange issue with my car - the headlights keep going cross eyed. After reading your post about narrow track cars touching the indicator molding on full lock, I realise my 6 point turn to back my Seven into my 'L' shaped garage is resetting the headlights every time! Thanks! Ian

This is really interesting - can you post a bit more information and pictures please?