Thurtene Posted April 11, 2014 Share Posted April 11, 2014 Hello all I'm about to replace the front and rear brake discs. So that I don't get half-way through before realising I've forgotten something, can anyone provide a list of what replacement parts I'll need along the way? Can I re-use anything I take off (bolts, bearings etc)? I've ordered new 41mm nuts for the rear but if I can't re-use the disc-to-hub bolts, where can I get replacements? What about the front bearings, castellated nuts etc? Thanks in advance. Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6speedmanual Posted April 11, 2014 Share Posted April 11, 2014 The rear disc to hub nuts have a reduced height head. To ensure a good purchase on them a socket ground off flat, preferably a 6 point, will reduce chance of slippage/rounded off corners. A bit of blowlamp heat will soften any loctite which has been used. The front bolts can be treated similarly. A couple of new front split pins is easier than trying to reuse distorted removed ones. Rear hub nuts can be reused. A small dab of loctite if you are anxious, but they are done up FT and with handed threads are desisned to naturally tighten rather than loosen. (although I did note you already bought new) All the other stuff, bearings, etc. reuseable assuming all in good order. Enjoy! Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 Once off the car .... put the studs of the hub in a wheel laying on the floor. This gives you a chance to hold it while using a long breaker bar with a hex socket (not 12-point one), as suggested above. Local heating around each bolt with hot air gun or blow lamp is probably essential. Good luck. edit ... left wheel left hand hub nut thread, right wheel right hand thread (rears only) Edited by - SM25T on 12 Apr 2014 08:22:42 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thurtene Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 Thanks for the hints. Got 41mm nuts with opposing threads on order. Think I have an appropriate socket. Will see how the bearings in the front hub look. Cheers! Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted April 12, 2014 Member Share Posted April 12, 2014 Have you got access to a big torque wrench for the hub nuts? Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Ford Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 Quoting Jonathan Kay: Have you got access to a big torque wrench for the hub nuts? Or a breaker bar, a tape measure, knowledge of your own weight and the strength of the local gravitational field? (hint: approximately 9.8 newtons per kilogram, unless you're doing the job somewhere very unusual) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted April 12, 2014 Member Share Posted April 12, 2014 :-) TPIWWP, in particular the one of you just leaving the ground at zero speed. Have you ever tested how close you can get doing it that way? Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 Defo new bolts for disc to rotor given the high likelihood of some damage to heads while removing. Top tip putting the assembly on a wheel, then kneeling on it to add some weight as you undo it with a long breaker bar. Put lots of weight through the bolt to keep it on the head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thurtene Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 Definitely doing it on this planet and have access to a big enough torque wrench. Saw a link elsewhere for the disc-to-hub bolts in the Caterham store but they didn't have enough to do all four wheels. Any ideas for an alternative source? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted April 12, 2014 Member Share Posted April 12, 2014 Try Redline Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6speedmanual Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 Take a bolt removed from the car to a local machine shop. Ask them to source set(s) of same and turn down the thickness of the head in a lathe. that is exactly what the CC supplied ones are. Whilst at it get a bunch extra make up and flog them on here so others don't have to suffer CC's parts shortages... (as you are) Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6speedmanual Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 Quoting TomB: ..... Top tip putting the assembly on a wheel, then kneeling on it to add some weight as you undo it with a long breaker bar. Put lots of weight through the bolt to keep it on the head. is deffo a top tip, Tom . The dust on the upper crust of that tip is blowlamp heat as the primary reason for them being stuck will be loctite or general seized up rustyness. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grim Reaper Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 To wind the rear caliper pistons back in before refitting, use the tool supplied with an angle grinder (spanner type thing with 2 pins sticking out) Works well and if you don't have either an angle grinder or the proper wind back tool, buying an angle grinder is more useful than buying a wind back tool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Ford Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 Wind-back tools are not expensive - £6.99 delivered on ebay. I think that's the correct version - perhaps someone can verify. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grim Reaper Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 which is great if you have the fortune to get one ordered a week before you start work, but when you've got the wheels off and the car's on axle stands in the drive, the angle grinder tool 'might' be in the drawer and available while waiting for ebay items to arrive is going to put a spanner in the works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted April 13, 2014 Member Share Posted April 13, 2014 Interesting discusion about tools. Please could someone who has used both please advise amateurs like me whether the wind-back tool makes the job easier than the peg spanner. Thanks Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 13 Apr 2014 21:53:38 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 Definitely. Can take a lot of force to turn it successfully. Long nosed pliers also suggested, but the chance of stabbing yourself or the dust seal is very high ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted April 14, 2014 Member Share Posted April 14, 2014 *arrowup*Thanks Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiffy69 Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 Quoting Jonathan Kay: Interesting discusion about tools. Please could someone who has used both please advise amateurs like me whether the wind-back tool makes the job easier than the peg spanner. Thanks Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 13 Apr 2014 21:53:38 I just used a big screw driver to twist it back in... did the job (Didn't think about the angle grinder spanner ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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