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Engine fitments & seats


evotell

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Depends on the hoist you are using. Make sure it can bypass the axle stands when the engine is manoeuvred into position.

 

My hoist has fairly wide legs and although I have wide track, I still prefer to place the front wheels on wooden blocks on the outside of the rubber to enable extra wiggle room if required.

 

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Similar to Bob, I had to raise the front up a little on concrete slabs so that the chassis wouldn't foul on the engine crane legs once the motor and box were back in. I used a load leveller to easily adjust the angle and also found it useful to have the back end of the car up in the air.
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For fitting the engine and gearbox - definitely up on stands - particularly so you can ease the tail of the gearbox over the crossmember at the start of the tunnel (also saves a bit of bending if your back isnt what it used to be *redface*)

 

Seat rails - washers underneath, you may need to file the round edges down a bit depending upon the chanelling underneath the car - I had to flatten a couple off quite a bit to get them to sit flush (2011 SV).

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I asked the question about the seat fitting because the washer doesn't fit between the rails under the floor as its 2 wide and also inside the floor there is a line of pop rivets so in reality the seat frame doesn't wont sit flat on the floor it sits on the rivets. In my opinion it would be better with the large washer between the seat frame and the floor and another washer underneath.

 

Thanks for you help guys.

 

Terry

PS. –34 here today. ☹️

 

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