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Hayabusa SV


timbo

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As Simon says 😬

 

Hayabusa engine/gearbox weight 70kg

K series weight with type 9 gearbox without alt & induction 115kg

 

As much as the weight is important its the grin on my face at 10,500 rpm. And of course the noise...

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Quoting charlie_pank: 
I can't remember having any issue with the diff flange on the Bailley Morris TRT. I'm pretty sure it went in after the diff. I certainly didn't have to bend the chassis to make it fit.

 

I've made do without reverse so far, I still don't feel the need for it.

 

IIRC the Hyabusa and all the gubbins is nearly as heavy as a K-series and only 180hp... more torque than other BECs though.

 

I've never built a SV but I'm 110% sure that on a DD S3 the prop has to go in before the diff.

 

K8 onwards Busa are 200bhp and they proper rock! *smokin*

 

J

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Completely agree with Jason.

 

Prop has to go first.

 

But if you have a flange on the front also this is unlikely to go through either.

 

Since 2005 I have had an adaptation to the bottom of the tunnel area just below the diff flange. I had to do this because of the Elite box.

 

After speaking and consulting with Arch we removed the small 3/8 or 1/2" tube that crosses the tunnel. We also cut the seatbelt boss back flush with either side of the chassis.

 

That allows me to install and remove the prop in a vertical plane without any difficulty.

 

Never been a problem and TBH I would do this even for a slider prop so that it could be removed without the diff coming out.

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Timbo

 

Busa in an SV the extra chassis width compared to an S3 should give you lots of scope to pick the optimum engine location and the route for the exhaust.

 

I would speak direct to Bruce at Arch to sort out any chassis mods he's a top man and really helpful. *smokin*

 

I have gone for the Bailey Morris 2 piece prop shaft which suits the location of my engine, the rubber drive flange which I tried from Nova Racing (great quality) needed an almost perfect flange to flange line up, but again with the room you have you could use either options.

 

Reverse boxes do seem to add in some extra backlash to the drive train, memory's of stripping and rebuilding a Westfield type was interesting...... I have seen the sprocket added to the diff flange which is then hooked up to a starter motor to give reverse, this may need to occupy the same space as the passenger seat as its very tight for room in this location or again it is on the S3.

 

Gear change choice I have used a stick type on both a Westfield and a Radical, the Westfield used rods and bell cranks and the Radical a cable. For me its got to be a paddle shift and to this end I would speak to Andy at AP performance he sells a system using paddles an a bespoke cable operation, this has been used extensively on their race cars and came recommended. Then if you do the under dash handbrake mod you have a clutter free tunnel.

 

Diff ratio, are you going to run 13 wheels ? I found that you were always looking for another gear when you were in sixth, again Nova Racing offer a higher 5th +6th gear ratios to help if this is a problem guess it all depends what you will be doing with it...

It look some time to find my Sierra diff 3.14 but they are out there

 

Hope this helps, not sure where your based but if you want to drop by for a chat and look at progress on mine let me know.

 

On the prof shaft I spent a great day removing my diff having found out the only way the prop fits is from the rear before the diff :- lots of swearing........

 

Paul

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HI Paul,

 

I will sort the chassis and engine mod mounts with a perfectionist friend ;-)

 

With my last busa even with the TRT 2 piece prop there was quite abit of lash. Have you a link to the nova drive flange?

 

Re diff, I am fitting the BMW 3.07. I compared this to my last westi with 3.21 freelander diff on 15" rims.

 

Westfield:

3.21 diff

R888 215/50/R15

Hayabusa final drive ratio with primary gear reduction of 1.596 = 4.806

6th gear at 6,000 rpm = 83.59mph

 

New Caterham

3.07 diff

R888 205/60/R13

Hayabusa final drive ratio with primary gear reduction of 1.596 = 4.666

6th gear at 6,000 rpm = 83.24mph

 

both wash out at 10,500 rpm at c 136mph.

 

I have a 2013 GEN 11 busa with c 500 miles on it. Am using the standard catereham dash clocks complete with addition of neutral light, low oil press light and GIPRO gear indicator. Caerbont will modify the std rev counter for me to suit busa application.

 

Have yet to decide on sump sys. Definately not swinging sump set up. Last busa had a cut and shut baffled wet sump that never gave me an ounce of bother.

 

 

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You mention that you arte planning on using the stock Caterham dash, I think that's a great idea. In my opinion one of the big down falls of the Canadian Busa is using the Busa dash.

 

Are you planning on using the Busa ECU, if so how are you going to get the stock Caterham gauges working? I more and more convinced that the stack dah is the way to go

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when I did mine I used a SPA dash and the stock Busa ECU. It was really easy to figure out what wires went to the SPA dash so the rev counter etc worked. If you use the Busa ECU then you need to make a plug up to connect to the Busa dash for engine diagnostics if needed.

 

My experience showed that due to the angle the nova cush drive fails on long drives in a S3. It's perfect for sprints but melts on track days and long journeys.

 

Jason

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the only issue I see is getting the rev counter to accept the busa pulse signal. hopefully Caerbont will take care of all this along with recalibration, new dial unit etc.

 

Jason, might have a word with BM and see if the props can retain the UJ's either end with the cush drive coupling.

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Quoting Jason Fletcher: 
when I did mine I used a SPA dash and the stock Busa ECU. It was really easy to figure out what wires went to the SPA dash so the rev counter etc worked. If you use the Busa ECU then you need to make a plug up to connect to the Busa dash for engine diagnostics if needed.

 

My experience showed that due to the angle the nova cush drive fails on long drives in a S3. It's perfect for sprints but melts on track days and long journeys.

 

Jason

 

Jason, do you have any pictures of the install? At the risk of sounding ignorant, I didn't understand the last paragraph! 😳

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Sorry I'll explain better.. The BWM cush drive used by Nova is not designed to make good the bad angle that we seem to have to fit the Busa engine in at. When running the cush drive is constantly getting bent in and out at it rotates. If it's a long drive it generates heat and soon fails.

 

There are a few pics still on locost builders from when I did my install but not much that will show where the problem is.

 

Pics here

 

Jason

 

 

 

Edited by - Jason Fletcher on 26 Jan 2014 18:40:47

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