Removing K-Series Engines

[Allen Payne]

 

I'm about to remove the engine/gearbox from my car for some work on the engine/clutch - I've a few questions below but any other useful tips (legal & related to this topic ) greatly received:

 

1) What holds the gearbox in? Is it just the one big bolt going up through the tail on the box?

 

2). Does the propshaft just slide out of the 'box when the box moves forward?

 

3). Does the back of the car need raising to avoid the tail of the gearbox hitting the floor?

 

4). Where's the best place on the engine/box to attach the hoist to?

 

5). Other than the clutch is there anything else that should be replaced while the engine is out?

 

Finally has anyone a engine hoist I can borrow, for a donation to NTL, over Christmas?

 

Thanks

Allen

[Miraz]

1) Yes - you'll need to remove the gearstick, and speedo drive from the box before removing it. It's easier to undo the two little bolts holding the mount onto the chassis and leave the single big bolt in place.

2) Yes

3) It's a good idea to get the back of the car up in the air, it makes removing the engine/gearbox assembly much easier.

4) I use one strap around the bellhousing, and one strap fed round the engine between cyls 2&3 - make sure the strap is inboard of any fragile ancillaries - everyone seems to have their own way of doing it.

5) Replace the engine and gearbox mounts.

 

Where are you based?

[paulyb]

1. yes

2. yes - but may need a fair bit of pulling

3. lifting the car makes it much easier to tilt the engine / gearbox about 30deg. to remove

4. I just wrap straps all the way around the whole engine block

5. I guess it depends how old / how many miles / are we talking upgrades, in which case there will be a barage of posts 😬 😬

 

 

[F355GTS]

1) and the wires to the reversing switch if you have one

2,3,4, as the others say

5) Clutch release bearing

 

Mark

[DohNut]

Alan

 

I have an engine stand in my garage looking for a job to do.

It makes working on / storing the engine a lot easier even if you just want to change the sump foam or what ever.

It will be good to meet the other Twickenham blatchatter

 

Nick

07887 736 779

[tiddy1]

1. Don't forget to remove all the wires for things like oil pressure sender, starter, alternator.

 

2. if you don't drain the gearbox then the oil will pour out the rear as you tilt it up.

 

3.you will need to remove the engine mounts off the engine as they stick out and can easilly dent the body panels

 

I find that if you are limited for space it is easier to leave the car on its wheels, and roll the car out from under the engine.

 

Its really fairly straight forward, you should be able to get the lot out in about 1 hour

 

 

Be verty carefull putting the gearbox back on the engine as it is easy to destroy the spigot bearing in the end of the crank,

Simon

 

[Allen Payne]

Thanks for the encouragement but it took me all day just to stripe off the Apollo tank, alternator, mainifold and starter!

 

When I left the car the engine/box still looked very large compared with he space between the rails.

 

Miraz - I'm in Twickenham but the car's in Norfolk (warmer garages in Norfolk ).

 

Regards

Allen

[Johnty Lyons]

Why are you taking the box out Do you need to if not don't. it's much easier to leave it in, saves a lot of unnecessary work. I've had my K engine in and out more often than [ woops this is Blatchat I forgot] and I've never taken the box out. 😬

 

jj

N.I. L7C AO.

Membership No.3927.

[SLR No.77]

....and a useful tip I've had is use a long piece of wood across the top of the engine bay with a piece of wire around (the wood) and through one of the upper holes in the bull housing, to "hang" the bell housing. You can then manouver the car forwards and backwards without the need to support the gearbox from below. Please note - with engine removed, still more go than a VX. Light blue touch paper and ...............................................

[Andy Best]

Allen,

 

If you don't want the gearbox out leave it were it is you can alsu do it with the car on the ground as long as the engine hoist can reach above the centre of the engine.

 

1) remove battery, starter, alternator and exhaust.

 

2) remove all hoses and the header tank

 

3) Take off all the wiring to the engine (including the loom that is bolted to the bottom of the engine)

 

4) remove the two diagonal engine bay top chassis rails

 

5) place a sling arount the engine passing between the inlet manifold and take the weight with a crane and chock the gearbox.

 

6) undo the six bolts in the bell housing and remove both engine mounts.

 

7) curse alot and eventually the bell housing separates from the engine ther is plenty of room to move it forward and lift it up and out.

 

Did mine last week with help from Stu and Andy in about 5 hours.

 

Putting it back might take longer.....

 

Andy

[Johnty Lyons]

Can modify these instructions to make it even quicker'

Disconnect battery only and leave alternator on engine.

Remove all hoses but leave header tank connected to supply hose and lift away as unit. Leave the engine loom connected to engine just unplug mutliplug [Grey]

Only remove exhaust side diagonal. Support g/box bellhousing with brush shaft across footwells and rope /webbing sling

I can get mine out in 1 1/2 hrs.

 

jj

N.I. L7C AO.

Membership No.3927.

[Allen Payne]

Thanks for all the suggestions, the engine/box cames out in less than an hour and it's almost ready to go back in.

 

Regards

Allen