Is this the correct front wheel bearing?

[Titanium7]

Is this the correct wheel bearing for a 2009 car, CC seem to be double this price.

 

Or should I be getting one from somewhere else?

 

here

[Grim Reaper]

Cheaper here

Looks the same, neither is a named bearing so probably no different

[TomGaval]

Will these fit on a 2000 Caterham with the AP big brake kit and the vented discs?

Or are they the ones that will fit the Uprated newer hubs? Thx

 

Tom

[Phil B]

According to the CC store, from 2003 onward the uprated front wheel bearing is standard.

http://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=355

The wheel bearing you found is for the earlier hubs which use the Triumph taper roller bearings. The later bearings are sealed ball races.

You could try talking to Canley Classics, to see if their uprated front hub kit for GT6 and Vitesse uses the same bearings as the uprated CC item.

http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/product/catkit3.html&xsl=product.xsl

Although the price difference is hardly worth chasing.

 

Phil

[Grim Reaper]

Does the later version still use the felt washer, I'd have thought not, if so then there's an easy way to tell which ones you need.

Felt washer on the inner end, old Triumph bearing kit GHK1021.

No felt washer, new sealed races (no idea what the bearing numbers are)

[Paul Deslandes]

"seek and ye shall find"! (Techtalk 19/4/13) 😬

[oldbutnotslow]

The earlier ones pre 2003 look like this

here

 

The easy way to tell if you have early or later type is that the early hubs have a grease cap over them whereas the later ones don't and you can see the castellated nut and split pin

The brake rotors IE big brake have nothing to do with the bearings They are fitted to both types. The earlier bearing still uses the felt seal. Check out Rimmer Brothers Hearald/Spitfire Good on price But best to speak to Mick at Redline.

Grant

[Roger Ford]

Getting away from the question of whether a 2009 car has pre-2003 wheel bearings ...

 

Once you've got the bearings out you can take them to your local bearing factor, who will check the number on them, then normally quote you some ridiculous artificial "list" price but sell them to you at 80% discount, which will probably come to around half of CC's price. Or you can buy Chinese specials on ebay for much less, but they might not last long.

 

I've probably got some in the garage - I'll check the number later.

 

Edited by - Roger Ford on 11 Jul 2013 14:14:56

[Grim Reaper]

See, what we need is a page on a website somewhere (Oooh, let me think, where could we put it?) where there could be a list of all the different part numbers for all the different parts that are in use on our cars.

Here's a starter for 10..

Tie Rod Ends (Steering) used on Triumph Herald.

First Line Part no. FTR4072. Refs to QR1572S & TA442

[Grim Reaper]

Pssst, Are these the droids you're looking for here ?

[colindavies56]

when i repacked mine with grease the bearing did'nt have the outside casing,the rollers was open.i just spun them with a greased finger to repack then.

my car is 2010 roadsport with widetrack.and it passed its ist mot in april.

if yours are as the picture shows,what are mine off.

[colindavies56]

if anyone is building a car at the mo,what do your bearings look like.

cheers in advance.

[Roger Ford]

Mine say L44600L A on the bearing and 4T-L44610 on the race.

 

So that would appear to be the same as this. Similar, but perhaps not the same, as Grip Reaper's link.

[Roger Ford]

Looks like they are the same. Here's the exact ones I got from my local bearing factor: Timken L44600LA. They're actually about the same price as Caterham's, but they are fully sealed bearings, which I don't think the Caterham ones are.

[Grim Reaper]

For anyone searching for part numbers for the older Triumph hubs, here are some potential search options.

The Kit (consisting of an Inner Bearing, Outer Bearing and Felt Seal) is sold as Unipart number GHK1021.

This can also be bought in three separate pieces as GHB111, GHB110 and GHB146 respectively.

The Larger, Inner Bearing has the following dimensions.. 1.000" id, 2.000" od and 0.591" width.(Timken ref. 07100S/07210X)

The Smaller, Outer Bearing has the following dimensions.. 0.625" id, 1.625" od, 0.5625" width. (Timken ref. 03062/03162)

 

The later hubs use two bearing of the same size Inner and Outer, these have a shield on one side only (and are fitted so the shields are to the outside of the hubs, so the cones are forced together under load)

Each bearing has the following dimensions.. 1.000" id, 1.980" od and 0.635" width. (Timken ref. L44600LA [L44643L/L44610])

 

Edited by - Grim Reaper on 16 Jul 2013 21:35:42

[Grim Reaper]

I ordered 4 sets of old style front wheel bearings from this ebay seller here recently, all 4 sets that arrived were NTN Japan branded so I'd say good enough for me. The Timken one's I bought about 5-6 years ago were showing signs of wear/damage to the smooth bearing surfaces, possibly water/rust damage from being stood for a while as there were two patches visible where the rollers would have sat.

They may have been fine for a few more years but as I am heading off around scandinavia in the next month or so I thought I'd better change them just in case.

The replacement Timkens were coming in at anything up to £50 odd each (not per set) so I got 4 sets for the price of one bearing, if I have to change them every 3 years instead of 6 I'm still on a saving, and they're not that hard to change, I did both front wheels in about three hours yesterday, start to finish, with nothing more than a good socket set, pliers, hammer and screwdriver.

This time I've used Silkolene Pro RG2 synthetic bearing grease, so we'll see if that has any benefits over regular Castrol LM grease.

[TomB]

What is the general consensus on life of bearings and replace frequency? Mine are on 50000 miles (mostly road) and aside from routine greasing/ packing, Ive not done anything to them. There is no play (last time I looked at MOT in April!) or rumbling. If replacing them during a future rebuild, I trust I need to replace the bearings and the races on the hubs?

[oldbutnotslow]

This is like how long is a bit of string?

 

50,000 miles ???!! that's a hell of a lot.

 

I regard wheel bearings as a service item and replace them every 2 years but all my car does is flack around a track mostly on slicks so they probably get far more stress than the original designers ever envisaged.

 

It wont hurt to remove the hub and look at the bearing condition both inner and outer. Any marks on the cup or bearing race and they should be replaced otherwise fit a new set of felt grease seals repack them and put them back together.

 

A tip to help fit the new cups if you need to replace them is to put them in the freezer for 30 mins before fitting.

You will be amazed just how much easier they are to get in by doing this.

[TomB]

They obviously made them well in the mid 1990s - apart from the powdercoat 😬

 

On a light weight road car, Id expect that the bearings should be good for many 10000 miles, provided they are serviced properly and of good quality in the first place. After all, they are designed for a heavier car with less persnickety owners! Should I consider replacement? Do they ever fail suddenly?

 

Edited by - TomB on 19 Jul 2013 11:16:35

[IanW]

Do the bearings come as matched pairs? Or are the inner the same as the outer?

 

I want to remove the outside bearing and get matching sets (if necessary) before attempting to remove the hub to replace.

[Titanium7]

Just replaced the offending front taper rolling bearing set on a 2009 car.

 

Not quite as simple as others have said.

 

Getting the hub off was simple, just remove the split pin whilst the wheel is on the floor. Loosen the wheel nut which should not be tight. Then jack up the front, remove the wheel and wheel nut and then gentlly pull the hub off.

 

The inner ring with the rollers on just pulled off the stub axle. The outer rings were press fitted into the ally hub. To remove these you need to be careful not to damage the inside of the ally hub. You need to tap them out using the two 'channels' inside the hub using a drift punch (Flat ended punch).

 

To put the new outer races in (if you don't have a press) as Grant has said, put them in the freezer for a while. I ground the outer side of the old outer ring to get clearance and used that to tap the new outer rings back into the hubs. From then on its straightforward. Used Comma bearing grease here.

 

Have run the the car for 50 miles and checked to see if there is too much play in the wheel. Had to 'tweek' the wheel nut a little and put the split pin in again, this time in the second split pin hole at 90 degrees on the stub axle.

 

 

 

Edited by - Titanium7 on 28 Jul 2013 15:17:04