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Carbon Fiber Hand Brake Lever anyone?


Damdy-Cash

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Tom, thanks for the update. As I have yet to persuade the old plastic cover off I will be dremmelling it off at the week end. Looks like I do not need to worry too much about marking the lever itself!

My handle has also arrived and I had not realised it comes apart into aluminium and carbon pieces. Having seen your finished article it does look good. Thanks for the fitting instructions. *smile*

 

Mark.

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Shows the different hand brakes. I found one good twist of the rubber cover loosened it and could pull it off. Carbon unit slid on, gave it a good push and perfectly in place. Nip up the Allen stud and that was it. Standard size from Carsten; my handbrake dia 19.1-19.4mm and under length 104 mm
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Dremmel deployed. Cut straight down the top along the seam. Still was reluctant to come off! It appears that when manufactured they squirt a blob of gluey goo into the plastic sleeve and just slide it on. Mine was obviously made by Mr Generous Goo Squirter. 😬

 

Still bit more Dremmeling and a good twist and off it comes. Underneath, needs to be finished off just like Tom's, so a bit more Dremmeling to get it all nice and smooth. Perfect fit. Looks great. *cool*

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Quoting Grubbster: 
The current version of the handbrake has 2 sets of holes so you can mount it high or low. It also has a microswitch for the warning light on the dash that most people seem to connect the wrong way round (me included!).

 

Grubbster - Given the two points above, ive got to ask. Which connection is the correct one on the microswitch?! Also which mount did you select? I have 2 options on the front and 2 for the clevis pin!

 

As with every other builder currently, waiting for the Thick clevis pin to arrive so the handbrake isn't fully fitted yet! Considering buying one of these now while I have the lever off the car to make fitting a bit easier!

 

Can anyone see any issues with the IVA purchasing this, or is it just safer to purchase it afterwards?!

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Alan, I used the Emil in the thread above so may just be a Christmas thing. Carsten was very quick to reply to me so may just be away.

 

G79, for what it's worth, I mounted mine so the lever sits in the slightly higher position. I found that in the lower position there was not much space to get my fingers around the lever to be able to grab hold of it. I have never found it gets in the way. Mine was build mainly for road use and I can understand for the academy cars that the more the handbrake is out of the way the better, so mount low. I took the view that if I did not like the high position it's not much work to go back in and change it. I don't remember having a problem with the micro switch but a multimeter will tell you what's going on in the switch.

 

On IVA, IIRC it is important that the car is seen to be built from all new components. When I built mine (2012) I wanted to do something with the underside of the wheel arches to try and reduce starring through stones being thrown up. CCs advice at the time was that would be fine as long as it still looked like new. In the end I masked them up and sprayed a few layers of stone guard on the inner surface which did not raise any comment. Re the handbrake, might be worth asking CC but I expect their response will be to keep as stock as possible to get it through the IVA. Given yours will be the same as mine and Tim's, it will either simply twist off or it won't, and if it doesn't it is a relatively simple job to cut it off. Of course once you have cut it off you can't put it back on!

 

Regards

Mark

 

 

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Gregs,

 

I reckon do it when the car comes back. It's probably easier to work on it with the handbrake in place if anything. It acts like a nice clamp of sorts when in place so if you do need to do some sanding/dremelling it should be easy once in place.

 

I'm pretty sure I went for the lower mounting hole for the clevis pin. I do like the fact that the handbrake will fit flush with the transmission tunnel when released.

 

If you haven't already picked up on this from any other blogs you are reading, make sure you cross-over the handbrake wire that goes around the Pully and Clevis Pin arrangement at the back of the lever. It helps to ensure that the wire doesn't scrape along the back of the transmission tunnel near where the prop shaft is positioned. It helps pull the cables more inwards into the transmission tunnel if you see what I mean.

 

Tom

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Quoting Gregs79: 
Which connection is the correct one on the microswitch?
Use the top connector.

 

Also, assuming you've an S3, you need to twist the handbrake cable (so looking from above, it looks figure-of-eight-ish, rather than a loop)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Managed to twist off the grip using brute force and ignorance... And I can now share the results!

 

The standard rubber grip weighs in at...

 

here

 

And the fancy carbon lever weighs in at...

 

here

 

Which means a saving of 29g by my reckoning! Not bad *tongue* I shall be looking forward to the improved handling as the CoG will now be slightly lower *thumbup* *smokin* 😬

 

Mine isn't fitted yet, as I need to do some filing. I'm going to pop the whole thing off the car and do it on the bench though, my back can't take much more stooping...

 

Edited by - myothercarsa2cv on 26 Jan 2014 01:03:15

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No but I might well do so as it is a bit annoying that it spins. That said, it's not that much of an issue if it does. It looks the same all the way round after all 😬

 

Tom

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  • 1 month later...

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