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Induction questions


Scott Dabinett

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Think about how much effort it will be, how much it will cost, and how little you'll get out of it... *wink* The gain in BHP will probably be offset by the weight of the extra parts. Remember that the air filter sits directly under the louvres anyway.

 

What TB do you have? If it's the alloy 48mm one, do the wedge mod - it's free, takes about half an hour, and might give you an extra 0.5BHP, but the throttle response is much better. And you save a few grams *thumbup*

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Have a little Google and find out if there are any back to back dyno tests on the K-series... This is for a Clio 172, and basically concludes that an induction kit does nothing good but make noise.

 

I am no expert engine tuner - I'll leave that to Oily and Ammo - but in my simple mind, the less tortuous the path to the cylinders, the better. The standard induction on a K-series is already pretty tortuous. Air has to go through one throttle body, in to a chamber, pick a runner, then through the cylinder head... Adding more pipework is surely only going to reduce flow. Especially when it's a flappy bit of vacuum cleaner hose. The loss in flow will negate any gains you get in reduced intake temperatures. Now if you got an induction kit with an alloy pipe, or used a silicone hose with a smooth bore, your flow losses will be less. A polished alloy pipe will also reflect heat better. But it's still more tortuous than it was before!

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Cold air intakes work well when done properly, only thing is you need to live in a hot country to really feel the benefits. 😬 *cool*

Have you ever tried running up a hill on a hot day? and then on a cool day, well you know what I mean.

On turbo cars running air inlet temp down near 40 deg c after the turbo and intercooler on full boost is the best temp, every deg increase in inlet temp equates to 4 deg rise in exhaust temp.

So running high inlet temp of 100 deg will raise the exhaust temp by an extra 240 deg and the only way to stop it reaching its critical maximum is to reduce boost pressure or fit a bigger intercooler.

That’s why it’s good to run the cold air intakes on turbo cars, it gives the intercooler a head start to keep the boosted temp nice and low and so you can keep the boost pressure higher.

 

Chris *wavey*

 

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Scott,

 

Go for it; better than watching TV. Personally I'd try to keep the filter close to the TB end and use "rammed" air to fill the oversized pipework to it.

 

At low car speed there's probably going to be little advantage (Possibly disadvantage), but as speed increases you'd get a benefit...assuming you're not restricting the flow as MOCA2CV says.

 

I would, however, say there's nothing wrong with the convoluted hose (Except looks) as I imagine that inside, each ripple will cause some turbulance and effectively reduce the diameter to be somewhat less that the true ID. Use big enough hose and you should be ok.

 

You should investigate the early Supersport inlet manifold, these put the TB at the front of the engine, so much easier to work something from this position.

 

I have never experimented, but I also imagine that the bonnet louvers would be in an area of low pressure at any car speed, so would have a detremental affect on the inlet air...although that's just my hunch and I could be wrong (I was wrong once before 😬).

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Willie, I wondered the same about the bonnet louvres. But if it was, a deflector would be pointless *wink* I'm also just guessing *tongue*

 

If I was going to do anything, it'd get a 45 degree alloy bend, with big old K&N cone filter on the end, enclosed in a box under the heater air intake louvres. But that's a lot of effort, and my battery is there *tongue*

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