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URGENT Car no go. Now fixed


Dave B

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Right, I have a wiring diagram of the MFRU in my hand (although I can't find the original on the web!)

It contains the Fuel Pump Relay (which is energised by Ignition ON and a signal from the Engine ECU), the ECU Relay, a "Spare Relay" and the Starter Solenoid Relay.

The circuit for the starter is Ignition -> Start button -> Relay Coil.

So, as someone correctly posted above if you have the ignition on pushing the start button should crank the engine regardless of immobiliser status.

 

If it doesn't crank then you have a flat battery or a MFRU problem.

Deffo check the photos on Angus' website and make sure it is plugged in!

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MFRU is definately connected, the other black box is as Dave Jackson says, the fuel vapour canister. I have been at work this afternoon so will get stuck in with the multimeter tomorrow am and try and trace the starter and fuel pump faults. I think they have messed with something and not connected it back, or something similar. Then again it could be pure coincidence *cry*
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Charlie P. Its got me completely stumped also. I think all I can do now is go through the electrics logically. Although saying that I was never great with auto electrics, but am willing to get stuck in.

If there are any folks out there want a cheap holiday in Gran Canaria with some great blatting in my 7, get it going for me and you're on for some of the best roads ever. See pics in Nov. Low Flying

Dave B

 

Edited by - Dave B on 11 Dec 2012 20:39:49

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Dave,

 

I'm sure you've already done this, but carefully look over the wiring around the MFRU/ECU area before you start checking with a multimeter. On the way to this year's March Llandow I had a similar issue. After pulling in for petrol, my car would not restart. I eventually found a hidden loose spade connector where the ECU loom is spliced into the Caterham loom. However I spent an hour with a multimeter before I did this *rolleyes*

 

I'm sure this won't be your issue as your ECU has got power, however check for disturbed connectors where the mechanics are likely to have been working. As Charlie says, disconnect/reconnect all plugs as there's quite a bit of stress on the loom around that area, and a watch on a careless wrist can wreak havoc.

 

With your immobiliser disabled in the Emerald, I would check all the wiring around the MFRU first, followed by the power feed to it and any associated earths. Good luck *wink*

 

Giles

 

 

 

 

Edited by - Klunk on 11 Dec 2012 22:00:38

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If you remove the cover off the MFRU it is possible to operate the relays manually with your fingure. By pressing each one you will be able to identify what each relay does as one should activate the starter, one the fuel pump the others are the horn and the lambda sensor. When you have identified the fuel pump you can jam this in the energised position with a match stick. Then operating the starter relay the engine should crank. The Red light on the Emerald should change from Red to Green to indicated that the Emerald has recognised the crank pattern and is revolving above 200 rpm, the engine should start. Good luck. I would be happy to come out to Grand Caneria and fix it for you.

 

Rob

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Well. Many thanks to all the responses to my urgent plea. This morning was my first opportunity to take a look myself and I fixed it in around 2 minutes. It was the ECU fuse at the bottom of the fuse box. I have replaced the 20a with a 30a and car started first time.

I have to say I did see the mechanic check the fuses but he must have missed this one. Now just have to get emissions checked and go for another test.

Once again many thanks to all you blat chatters.

Dave B

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