Ozzy Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 Can you use a Rivnut on the nosecone, or is it likely to crack it? Thought I'd ask on here first, before disaster ensues! Oz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klunk Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 I've used them on fibreglass before. As long as you don't overtighten them it's fine. I think I used a bit of araldite to allow me to use less pressure on the fibreglass. Regards, Giles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 Do you mean fit the nut part in the fibreglass or CF nose ? If so - then yes it will crack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozzy Posted December 3, 2012 Author Share Posted December 3, 2012 Nosecone is fibreglass. Not sure what you mean Ian? The rivnuts are one piece things. I just wondered, as obviously I've used pop rivets on the nose, and the rivnuts just a large version with a thread inside, isn't it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ. Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 If you need a captive nut on fibreglass, it would be better to fit your rivnut onto some steel sheet with plenty of holes in it and then to fibreglass over the the sheet to bond it onto the inside. Duncan edit: just seen your last post. The pressure needed to fit a rivnut is much higher than an aluminium pop rivet. Edited by - DJ. on 3 Dec 2012 19:17:49 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 Quoting ozzy: Nosecone is fibreglass. Not sure what you mean Ian? The rivnuts are one piece things. I just wondered, as obviously I've used pop rivets on the nose, and the rivnuts just a large version with a thread inside, isn't it? whether you were going to fit the rivnut itself to the nose, or use a bolt through the nose into a rivnut fitted to the chassis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 Yep - done it. Just don't clinch them so far as you would in metal, and the GRP won't crack. Git to undo if they seize through corrosion tho. Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Ford Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 Or use the proper item. You'll need another tool, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil B Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 for MEMfast, helped me out a couple of years back when I wanted to fix 2 of M8 steel rivnuts, they loaned me the insertion tool so all I paid for was the rivnuts and postage. Phil B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klunk Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 Roger's option looks like a better solution. I used a memfast tool to fit my ordinary rivnut as it is easier to control the pressure applied compared to traditional rivnut tools Forgot to say the fibreglass mustn't be too thick so as to stop the rivnut compressing - that will crack the fibreglass. Not sure what you're using the rivnuts for, but I fitted them in the nosecone to secure the front number plate with no issues. Giles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozzy Posted December 3, 2012 Author Share Posted December 3, 2012 Number plate. I've gone off the idea of velcro, as I'm looking for something that looks tidy when the plates not on, rather than a strip of velcro stuck on the nose! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klunk Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 Precisely the reason why I used them 😬. Just proceed with caution and you'll have no problem. Giles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozzy Posted December 3, 2012 Author Share Posted December 3, 2012 Sounds like it's worth a go then. I've got a rivnut kit, but I've never used it yet! I assume you can just apply as much pressure as you need to just expand it so it holds. Unlike pop rivets which you need to apply a lot of pressure to, before they snap off! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klunk Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 Correct. Normally you would pull them tight if in steel but not so tight as to strip the thread. In this instance, you want it to just grip the fibreglass so they can't rotate. I would practice to get the feel of it first then go for it Giles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozzy Posted December 3, 2012 Author Share Posted December 3, 2012 Cheers I've got a fairly sympathetic touch, so I'm sure I'll be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 Why not just use std plastic bolts. Not a major issue to get your fingers inside to undo or even take off the nosecone. You could probably araldite in place. Or as suggested rivnut in a bit of ally bonded in place. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Ford Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 I've got a rivnut kit, but I've never used it yet! I assume you can just apply as much pressure as you need to just expand it so it holds. Unlike pop rivets which you need to apply a lot of pressure to, before they snap off! First time I used a rivnet: Cor, these rivnuts take a lot of force. SQUEEZE ... . There - done it. Oh, hang on a moment... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozzy Posted December 3, 2012 Author Share Posted December 3, 2012 That's why I thought I'd ask first Roger. Didn't fancy learning the hard way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benedict. Posted December 4, 2012 Share Posted December 4, 2012 How about a rubber captive nut? As per the dwgs on the page, they "clinch" themselves when tightened, but release when undone. You could then pop them out and fit some (coloured?) blanking grommets, or even keep then fitted, and screw in some coloured dome-head aluminium screws, when running from the law not wanting a reg-plate on 😬 Ben Edited by - _Benedict_ on 4 Dec 2012 05:33:43 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myothercarsa2cv Posted December 5, 2012 Share Posted December 5, 2012 Can you not just put a washer around the rivnut behind the cone? Spread the load? Works for rivets ok? Rivnut would grab the washer, not the GRP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Golf Juliet Tango Posted December 5, 2012 Area Representative Share Posted December 5, 2012 I fitted a few rivnuts into the body of the 21, so they will hold. I think that the bodywork GRP may be thicker than that of a nose cone. Roger's link looks like a better solution, however. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Golf Juliet Tango Posted December 5, 2012 Area Representative Share Posted December 5, 2012 Looking at the Memfast page, I think those were the fixings used to locate the headlights in the original cars. When I fitted new lamps, I improvised (using hollow wall fixings). The fittings designed for the job would probably be better and certainly would have been quicker. (The problem with the 21 is that there are nearly no flat areas, everything is on a 3d curve) In fact Benedict's link to the rubber coated nut might have worked even better. Edited by - Golf Juliet Tango on 5 Dec 2012 16:59:13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Ford Posted December 5, 2012 Share Posted December 5, 2012 I imagine you could do those Memfast screw anchors up with either a simple bolt and washer, or use a normal rivnut tool. Speaking of which, my Memfast rivnut tool arrived a couple of days ago (which was why I'd been looking through their website), and it really is a lovely thing. At £60 + post, it's a lot more than a standard "squeezy" tool, but it's much nicer to use, and I've broken two of the squeezy ones before (though admitedly the first one was due to the episode mentioned above). Well recommended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klunk Posted December 5, 2012 Share Posted December 5, 2012 +1 . I bought the original one about 4 years ago at Stoneleigh and have never regretted paying the higher price. Excellent piece of kit, built to last, and the new ones are even better Giles Edited by - Klunk on 5 Dec 2012 17:06:03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozzy Posted December 8, 2012 Author Share Posted December 8, 2012 All done Rivnuts were no problem, I just pulled them up gently until I'd got a nice bubble behind it, and then a very slight extra squeeze, and they were fine. No cracks at all. Just for good measure, I also put a smear of Araldite behind the head/lip, along the shank, and a large blob around them on the inside of the nose. Looks very tidy, and I don't think they'll ever come loose! Thanks for responses/ideas. Oz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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