Chris Coxall Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 Has anybody replaced the alternator bearings themself on a K series- is it possible? If so, what are the part no.s for the bearings. Any assistance would be appriciated - Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon C Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 Chris, i can't answer you questions however these guys may be of use to you if your struggling. burghfield starter and alternator center Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 It is worth it given the cost of refurbished alternator from an Auto Electrician, with which you'd also get a new diode pack (which is the most common source of failures) and a warranty? Sod law you'd stripping & replace the bearings in your current alternator, and the diode pack would fail in 6 months time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Lowe Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 Another for Burghfield Starter and Alternator Centre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mankee Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 What sort of K-series alternator do you have? I have a Lucas A127, old Metro GTi stylee with straight adjuster bar, on my car and a rebuild kit was £20! Both bearings, rectifier, regulator and slip ring. So I now have three alternators, just in case. A newer alternator is likely to be rebuildable, but whether it is worth it is another matter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnv Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 or this here ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 Mankee, please can you tell me where you got the rebuild kit from? I have an intermittent diode fault which means when first started, the red light glows on the dash board until the engine is blipped. Would be good if I could correct this and rebuild the alt for only £20. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mankee Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 Tom, as far as I know, that behaviour is normal for Lucas A127s. The charging circuit only kicks in once it's had a "push", i.e. you give it a blip. I can't remember where I read it, but I'll post up if I can find it again. I got my rebuild kit from good ole eBay. Just type in "Lucas A127 repair" or similar. They do vary in price. I went for the full kit as the bearings were noisy, as well as the alternator being totally non-functioning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnv Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 Tom, just to agree with Mankee, Steve Greenall (of the two Steves fame) also told me this .. always blip the throttle to get the alternator charging .. he showed it to me on his screen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 Thats interesting, I thought it was a diode fault. Seems strange behaviour - if you start the car to idle on your drive way, for example, it will flatten the battery! Surely if its spinning, it should provide charge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Lowe Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 I seem to remember Raceline telling me that on their ZETEC alternator kit the pulley was smaller to cope with the higher revs than that of a standard tin top and they are wired with self "exciting" single wire regulators. Therefore it will take more revs that tick over to first "excite" the alternator to start charging when the engine is first started, i.e. a blip will do it. I'm probably talking b@ll@cks again 😬 but this seems to explain the way it works better than I do: “The field windings are initially supplied power from the battery via the ignition switch and "charge" warning indicator (which is why the indicator is on when the ignition is on but the engine is not running). Once the engine is running and the alternator is generating power, a diode feeds the field current from the alternator main output equalizing the voltage across the warning indicator which goes off. The wire supplying the field current is often referred to as the "exciter" wire. The drawback of this arrangement is that if the warning lamp burns out or the "exciter" wire is disconnected, no current reaches the field windings and the alternator will not generate power” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Richard Price Posted October 2, 2012 Area Representative Share Posted October 2, 2012 Quoting Chris Coxall: Has anybody replaced the alternator bearings themself on a K series- is it possible? Yes, I did this a couple of years ago. It took less that an hour to remove the alternator, replace the bearings, and refit. Quoting Chris Coxall: If so, what are the part no.s for the bearings. 6003 2RS and 6303 2RS or 6203 2RS look to be likely candidates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Coxall Posted October 2, 2012 Author Share Posted October 2, 2012 Thanks everybody Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 A few rebuild kits on eBay, like this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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