Rebuild - some questions

[ben2]

Hi

 

I am in the process of rebuilding an ex race car and have a few questions which I am hoping you may be able to help me with:-

 

a) Boot floor - how is the edge between the honeycomb boot floor and the rear scuttle sealed - is it just a case of some sealant or is there a more elegant solution?

 

b) Carbon dash - I am replacing the dash with a carbon one - what is the best method of attaching it - has anyone tried gluing it in postion successfully rather than original pop rivets?

 

c) could someone measure the position of their rear lights - I can guess but would be nice to have some measurements as a guide (its a 2004 imperial chassis) before I drill into my freshly painted wings.

 

Thanks in advance for your help

 

Mark

[myothercarsa2cv]

Boot floor isn't sealed - it's removable so you can access the tank

[CharlesElliott]

Actually, that's probably not correct for a race car as it is a requirement to seal the boot floor. If it has been done, either aluminum tape and/or sealant are generally used.

[I reply to every thread]

Quoting Ben2: 

Hi

 

I am in the process of rebuilding an ex race car and have a few questions which I am hoping you may be able to help me with:-

 

a) Boot floor - how is the edge between the honeycomb boot floor and the rear scuttle sealed - is it just a case of some sealant or is there a more elegant solution?

 

b) Carbon dash - I am replacing the dash with a carbon one - what is the best method of attaching it - has anyone tried gluing it in postion successfully rather than original pop rivets?

 

c) could someone measure the position of their rear lights - I can guess but would be nice to have some measurements as a guide (its a 2004 imperial chassis) before I drill into my freshly painted wings.

 

Thanks in advance for your help

 

Mark

 

b - Sikaflex - it won't squeak or rattle but it'll be a b@stard to get off if you ever need to

[Roger Ford]

This stuff works well for a fireproof seal round the boot floor, and isn't too hard to remove if you want to get the floor out later.

 

Is it just me, or does "intumescent" sound rather rude?

[myothercarsa2cv]

Quoting CharlesElliott: 

Actually, that's probably not correct for a race car as it is a requirement to seal the boot floor. If it has been done, either aluminum tape and/or sealant are generally used.

 

Oh didn't realise that! 😶‍🌫️

 

Edited by - myothercarsa2cv on 24 Apr 2012 13:52:15

[ben2]

Hi

 

Thanks for the replies so far - the firesafe sealant looks like it may be best, although the tape option may be worth a go too.

 

Its an ex race car being converted back to the road, but would prefer stuff in the boot staying dry!

 

Anyone able to help on fixing the dash or rear tail lights positions?

 

Thanks

 

Mark

 

 

[Pierson]

Hi Mark,

 

I've just been out to the garage and measured the rear light block's position thus:

 

Distance (following vertical centre line of the light cluster) of lower edge of the lens from bottom of wing: 170mm

Distance (horizontal centre line) of the lens from outside of rear wing: 50mm

Distance (horizontal centre line) of the lens from point where rear wing meets body (i.e. the piping): 40mm

 

Hope this helps.

 

BTW: I suspect that a sealed boot floor (or lack of...) will be the least of any water-ingress worries in the boot - in damp/wet conditions the water finds its way into the boot down the rear roll bar uprights and through the boot cover anyway...

 

I'm not far from you, just south of Ipswich - if I can help with anything else please BM me.

 

Cheers,

Pierson

[paul richards]

If the car is just for the road, I wouldn't bother sealing the boot. Things won't get wet from below,they are more likely to get wet from water running down the roll bar and into the boot.

I find it best to fit some thin rubber mat in the boot. Easy to dry and helps stop things sliding about.

[shn7]

My CF dash is fitted with some small self tapping screws along the top edge such that they are barely visible once the scuttle is fitted. Doesn't rattle and is easy to remove should I need to.

[ben2]

Hi

 

Thanks for all the replies. I'll sort the boot out at the weekend, and get busy with the drill on the rear wings.

 

Following Steves comments on the dash I was thinking I might use rivnuts in the holes where the poprivets used to go, with some button head allen screws or similar to hold it in place.

 

Pierson - we are near Nayland - if you are passing let me know - its much easier working things out from an actual car than pictures (thanks for the measurements!)

 

Thanks again

 

Mark

[bobt]

My carbon dash is attached using heavy duty Velcro. Having it removable has come in handy many times!

[ben2]

Hi

 

Making progress on the rebuild, engine in and running!

 

Once again I am after some measurements to help with positioning.

 

It's for an imperial S3

 

a) positions of the poppers for the hood/boot cover on the rear/side of the car. I can see the positions from photos but want to get it right.

b) position of the hood strap fixings inside the back rail of the car

c) position if the front exhaust bracket mounting hole - it was covered when it was reskinned!

 

Thanks in advance for your help

 

Mark

[10uptobase]

IBoot:

use some of that "tacky / grippy" open mesh stuff on my road car boot floor intead of the carpet. No problem if it gets wet and stops stuff sliding about. Suggest either bin bags or water proof bags (walking shops do these in various sizes for rucksacs) for any stuff you dont want getting wet trips. No problem from water below, but the cover isnt that leak proof....