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my 1st 7 build


pug7

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if you haven't already filled the gearbox with oil, the simplest method, with the tunnel cover removed, is to use a length (approx 18 inches) of 15mm copper tube with a swept 90deg elbow on the bottom end and a small funnel at the top. Pass the tube vertically down to the filler and hook the elbow into the hole. Slowly pour the oil into the funnel until the correct level is reached when oil starts to overflow from the filler /level hole. You might need to add a very short length of tube to the elbow to get ensure that all the oil goes into the box. Probably as well to solder the tubes into the elbows as you don't want them falling into the box. 😳

 

Enjoy your car.

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  • 2 weeks later...

well she runs. went off down the drive to test things seems to work so round the block once, then again, and then 3 more goes just to be sure *smile*

 

All works but no speedo any suggestions? rechecked the gap, was about 1.5mm now 1mm, but no idea. all the lights work etc so im stuck now ?

 

but how tempting to go for a proper blast out ....

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Had to get mine to .5mm. Jack it up, ignition on, turn the wheel and the sensor should flash. The teeth on mine are not all equal and so the sensor can't read them all. This means the odometer reads under and the needle flickers a little. After guessing how many miles I had done before filling the tank (fuel gauge is woeful) I fitted a bike speedo. Much more accurate. Have fun.

 

Edited by - Domus on 19 Jul 2012 21:59:44

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well jacked up and tweaked this morning needed a gap of 3mm ! any closer the led stays on. Down the drive, the speedo flickered. Another excuse round the block with no number plates or tax etc etc...but sod it ! I now have the Caterham 😬 just going to be a long wait for its return from midlands post IVA etc. maybe even with a new sept number plate i guess...still 7 weeks start to finish not bad, and working abroad so no after work working on it
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3mm is a big gap. I'm surprised it works at all like that. It's normally in the range 0.5-1.0mm. IIRC, even the top end of the sensor's operating range is only 2mm. When you say the the LED "stays on", do you mean that it does so while you're rotating the hub? The LED should come on each time a reluctor-ring tooth passes by, and then go off again in between.

 

JV

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nope i definatly mean 3mm !! when i first tried, power on at the ke, led on all the time at 1mm gap. so backed it off till no light at all, turning the hub i moved it in till led flashed, started at about 4mm, at 2mm gap on all the time. so set it to 3mm, wheel on, dropped her down round the block and tacho works. no idea on the gap, it works im happy. except cars gone now to caterham for post build etc
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I wonder whether you have a different sensor to the rest of us? These inductive proximity sensors come in a range of sizes (typically M5, M8, M12 and so on up to M30 or more) and the bigger the diameter the greater the sensing range, with M5 up to about 1mm and M8 up to about 2mm. I'm not sure what size the usual CC sensor is, but I'd guess M8. All will become clear at your PBC, I imagine.

 

JV

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Well congratulations on a job well done!

It will be well worth all the effort when you get the plates on and it is all good to go.

Enjoy it, just take it easy for a bit.

*wavey*

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well just over 2 weeks (how long!!) since she went off to caterham for post build etc etc, we now have a reg plate. Cannot wait to be back in the country on we'd to go get the 7 and have some fun !

Still less than 11 weeks from delivery including the sitting time for paperwork at caterham not bad for a first build.

Just a question of how long before I'm in the spotted section! And hopefully not wrapped round a tree or in a ditch 😬

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