duffield Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 I am rebuilding a CSR right down to the ungrading the chassis and re powder coating. This is not the first CSR I have owned, my experiance of driving a CSR especially in the summer is the gearbox heat does make the driver a little uncomfortable as the gearbox does heat you up. Having stripped my latest one down, at the back of the gearbox just behind the gearstick is a blanking plate. This is my opinion stops the air traveling past the gearbox and cooling it as it cannot get past this plate. I am interested in your opinion on this idea. I am thinking of drilling some holes in this blanking plate so air can pass through into the tunnel, travel down the tunnel and out the back over the diff thus acting as a vehicle to move heat away. I am also going to put sellotec panels in the tunnel frame behind the existing insulation around the gearbox to limit heat transfer. I am sure you CSR owners know exactly what I mean. Andrew Edited by - duffield on 22 Jan 2012 19:37:09 Edited by - duffield on 22 Jan 2012 19:37:59 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weeman Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 We've done about 12k miles in our CSR 260 and have never had a problem with excessive cockpit heat. I have wrapped the primaries and the ali panel that's riveted across the bottom of the transmission tunnel has been removed. (this has the added benefit of allowing access to the both the U/J's). On our car, the plate to which you refer, has the loom for the three centre console switches passing through it. Next winter I plan to strip down our car (though not as thoroughly as you're) and I'm going to position the switches elsewhere, so I may remove the panel as it doesn't really do anything. Slightly O/T, I'd like to see some pics of your rebuild, do you have a build diary? Be lucky!! Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duffield Posted January 22, 2012 Author Share Posted January 22, 2012 Martin, Thanks for the comments, I did about 10K in my last 260, but all on the road. I sold it as I had an offer I could not refuse. My Chassis is going to Arch shortly for updating and repaneling. Yes I have been thinking about leaving the the bottom tunnel panel off myself. Do you think the primary wrapping has reduced the temperature as they do cook the temperature sender in the top coolant transfer tube. Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racing Snake Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 If you really want to reduce under bonnet temps changing to a Good Fabrications manifold which comes out through the side of the bonnet will have the desired effect My gearbox runs at 80 degrees most of the time in a duratec powered S3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weeman Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Andrew, to be honest I bought the car without the tunnel cover fitted (the previous owner had gone to the trouble of having it fluted, like our bonnets) but I couldn't see the point of fitting it back on. I didn't notice any significant improvement after I'd wrapped the pipes, but that's probably because I didn't have any heat issues in the first place. So why fit the wrap you might ask? Well, bizzarely, because I like the look of it . It must do something though because after a hard drive I can get out of the car ,remove the bonnet and grab hold of any of the primaries with out the least danger of getting burnt. I would imagine that Mad Hatters suggestion about changing the manifold would work very well, but their appearance isn't to everyones taste. Be lucky!! Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 I don't think that the gearbox temps will be affected by the airflow. There are no cooling fins and the thing is bolted to a metal bellhousing and a watercooled engine. I think your underbonnet temps are a function of insulation between the mechanicals and the floor and very importantly the exhaust pipes. These reach huge temperatures, your gearbox in contrast is loose change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weeman Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 BOSS, where a CSR differs from most/all other Se7ens is that is has the Xmn tunnel enclosed by an ali panel beneath the prop. This effectively traps the hot air radiating from the gearbox, because it has nowhere to go. So it's not so much that an airflow would cool the gearbox but it definitely helps to have an escape route for the heat from the gearbox. I've never been able to understand why the CSR's Xmn is enclosed and I'm not sure that it's still the case within later cars. Be lucky!! Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duffield Posted January 23, 2012 Author Share Posted January 23, 2012 Gents, Thank for your comments, I cannot see why the tunnel under panel is required. The plate that blanks the tunnel is directly behind the gearbox and the propshaft goes through it, why does it need it? Andrew. Any of you guys with CSR's live near Silverstone? When I am on the build I may want some help with information. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peyote Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 weeman - YHM this afternoon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hanns Per Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 I could imagine that the plate under the tunnel protects the Propshaft Universal Joint from getting dirty? rgds Kober Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laurence Wilson Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 The plate that blanks the tunnel is directly behind the gearbox and the propshaft goes through it, why does it need it? How close does this panel come to the prop? I've been discussing my bike engine conversion with a very experienced fabricator and race car builder and he's keen to build a panel as you describe into my transmission tunnel – the purpose being to help contain a flailing prop should a UJ fail. The only difference here is my chassis is older than yours – '94 live axle – and has hardly any existing structure inside the transmission tunnel. ... where a CSR differs from most/all other Se7ens is that is has the Xmn tunnel enclosed by an ali panel beneath the prop. My old girl has a fully enclosed tunnel Edited by - Laurence Wilson on 24 Jan 2012 19:02:35 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weeman Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 the purpose being to help contain a flailing prop should a UJ fail. A flailing prop would have smashed through the plate on my car like a hot knife through butter. If I wanted to guard against this scenario I'd use something considerably more substantial. Still don't why they're fitted to CSR's and not to other high powered Se7ens. Be lucky!! Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mic Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 R500 have prop guards fitted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laurence Wilson Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 A flailing prop would have smashed through the plate on my car like a hot knife through butter. If I understood my man correctly, I would hypothesize that even a relatively thin plate is sufficient to keep the prop on its axis of rotation where the least amount of energy is required to keep it in one place, thereby preventing the prop whirling about like mad one at which point you would need something more substantial to arrest it. But then, I haven't seen the plate we're discussing, nor am I entirely sure I was paying enough attention when my mate explained it to me I am merely offering a suggestion 😶🌫️ Edited by - Laurence Wilson on 24 Jan 2012 20:31:56 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laurence Wilson Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 This bit here, Mic? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weeman Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Sorry Laurence, it wasn't my intention to rubbish your suggestion. Having recently discovered finger tight bolts on my cars diff/prop bolts I've given more than a passing thought to a disconnected prop spinning out of control. The R500 offering looks a lot more solid than the one on my car and it has access to the `U/J's. Apologies also to Andrew as I seem to have taken your thread down a different track Be lucky!! Martin Edited by - weeman on 24 Jan 2012 21:03:53 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mic Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Yes, that is the part, fits in the tunnel at the front of the prop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laurence Wilson Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 That's alright, Martin Whilst I think about, I need to get Steve to (re)introduce us next time I bother my 🙆🏻 to get to an area meet. My attendance has been so irregular in the 8 years I've owned the car that I still haven't put all names to face Mic: that's exactly what I had in my mind; so if the plate on the CSR doesn't look similar to that then I haven't a clue what it's for Edited by - Laurence Wilson on 24 Jan 2012 21:15:04 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duffield Posted January 24, 2012 Author Share Posted January 24, 2012 Gents, Dont worry about the change of the focus, it has been interesting to read your comments. Now then, the plate on a CSR is directly behind the gearbox. The parrellel spline front section of the propshaft goes through it into the gearbox, so it is forward of the front UJ. If a UJ gave way it would not stop it flailing. For the record on stripping this CSR, a lot of fixings were loose, including the diff to prop cap heads, the Diff mountings and one rear wheel centre nut(This is quite common). I am of the conclusion now that wrapping the primaries will reduce the temperature but I am also considerating leaving the tunel bottom plate off. I have asked Arch to rivnut the chassis anyway so the bottom plate could be removed. Just for information, my chassis is an early 2006 and has the loop under the gearbox. The chassis is going to be updated to a 2012 and I know the loop under gearbox will be cut out and made good. I will design and manufacture a sump gard to most likely fit onto the chassis and secure using the Engine mounting bolts. Does anybody use a sump guard? Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigyb Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Can't wait to see it Andy - especially if it's madder than the last car. What colour will you make this one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul jacobs Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 I'm coming to the discussion a bit late, but I'm really not sure that leaving the ali. plate that runs under the prop will make much difference to airflow, as the prop passes through a fairly tight fitting vertical plate at the back of the gearbox and another one in front of the diff. and these would stop any air anyway, whilst, as you all know, the gearbox is open, so any hot air can get out underneath. I'm wondering if the swoopy dash transfers more heat than the flat dash? All those extra exposed tubes in direct contact with the heat source. Anyone got any thoughts? I'm certain that wrapping the primaries goes a long way to reduce underbonnet temps. I wrapped mine when I built it back in 2006, so can't compare it with anything, but the temperature only really get very hot when ambient air temp. is arount the 75 deg F mark and above, which is possibly why Martin hasn't had too much of a problem, last summer wasn't one of our hottest was it? I think you have the right idea with the wrap Andy, if you still suffer too much heat, you can always duct some cold air from under the rad into the engine compartment if we suffer I mean enjoy a hot one this summer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croc Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Quoting Paul Jacobs: I'm wondering if the swoopy dash transfers more heat than the flat dash? All those extra exposed tubes in direct contact with the heat source. Anyone got any thoughts? I think you are right. I melted my fleece jacket elbow on a swoopy dash chassis tube down the central tunnel. In summer I cannot touch some parts of the tubes. My old seven with old cockpit layout never transmitted such heat through the centre tunnel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weeman Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 I will admit to not being able to understand this talk about CSR cabin temps especially in cars with swoopy dashes . It's a problem that I do not recognise at all. I don't understand why our CSR should differ so much from those cars that bake their occupants. Jo and I had heard so much about cabin temps before we bought the car, but we bought it any way and decided to resolve any problems retrospectively. We have driven in decent weather (mid 80's F), and it is driven with spirit. Earlier this year we had a snails pace drive through Strasbourg's awful traffic, on a reasonably warm day...and still no issues. Confused of Hampshire Be lucky!! Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croc Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 It is confusing to me as well as the hot spots are quite specifically localized on the tunnel around the gearbox and I cannot work out why the heat is not evenly spread. I have all the insulation installed plus some extra pieces. I did not wrap the manifold as heat transmitted from that direction is not a problem for me. So I live with it and accept it as the price of having a stunningly good car. It does not help that it looks like I am the only one within 5500 miles with a swoopy dash CSR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hanns Per Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 I have also a swoopy dash but with all the insulation its bearable I think Rgds Kober Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now