new build completely dead

[fred_gustafsson]

Almost finished my build (RS 175) and tried to start her up. Absolutely nothing happens when ignition is switched on. I checked the battery, the battery to chassis, battery to starter motor, engine to chassis, lights to earth, dashboard to chassis and they all have good contact. Any wise thoughts?

 

Edited by - fred_gustafsson on 17 Apr 2010 08:20:40

[Stationary M25 Traveller]

All fuses in place ? Have you checked for 12V at ignition switch. Does the fuel pump run ? Have you pressed the inertia switch on the bulkhead to reset it ?

[fred_gustafsson]

Yes, i have checked the fuses too fuel pump is quite. Have checked voltage at ignition, how do i do that?

[fred_gustafsson]

I tried with the inertia switch disconnected as recommended in guide but still nothing.

[Billyboy]

Is the battery supplied wet

[Stationary M25 Traveller]

Good point ..... Stick the meter across the battery to make sure it contains some volts !

 

To check the ignition switch, touch negative lead of meter to back of dash then touch positive lead on each terminal of ignition switch to make sure you have voltage input and outputs as required.

[GJH]

Fred

Is the immobilisor disconnecting properly. I have just finished my Roadsport 150 SV and I had the same problem. I found that I have to raise the fob so it almost touches the ignition barrel before it disconnects. Only then will the starter engage and engine turn

[fred_gustafsson]

battery got plenty of power but how does the immoboliser work? does affect only the starter motor or does it cut power to everything, lights, wipers et al?

 

Edited by - fred_gustafsson on 17 Apr 2010 08:18:18

[Myles]

They usually only stop the injection/ignition at most - you should be able to turn everything else on and even crank the engine (but it clearly won't fire) with the immobiliser armed.

 

Have you fitted an FIA cut-off switch?

 

          🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻

Alcester Racing

7s Ecosse™

^🙆🏻 🙆🏻 _🙆🏻 🙆🏻 ^🙆🏻

 

Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com

---

[fred_gustafsson]

No FIA cut-off switch is fitted.

[Myles]

Does the loom have any power at all?

 

If you momentarily connect the battery-positive to the solenoid (it will spark briefly) - does the engine turn over?

 

          🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻

Alcester Racing

7s Ecosse™

^🙆🏻 🙆🏻 _🙆🏻 🙆🏻 ^🙆🏻

 

Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com

---

[fred_gustafsson]

Update: switching the battery leads around made all the difference. I now got power to lights, instrument, fuel pump etc. However, nothing happens when I press the starter button.

I suspect I got my leads the wrong way around somewhere. Can anyone confirm the following?

Battery negative to red lead to starter solenoid to brown lead to altenator. And battery positive to black lead to chassis loom that disappears under the scuttle.

 

Fred

[lavena]

Something odd here.

Battery negative to red lead to starter solenoid

and

battery positive to black lead to chassis loom

.

 

Negative normally black and connected from battery to the engine block with another black wire from the engine mount to the engine block.

 

Positive normally red and connected from battery to the starter motor.

 

Not sure if you have a cut-out switch, if you do - there will be two red wires one goes to the battery and the other to the starter motor. I have a cut-out fitted and I think the loom is also powered via the switch - you should have a red wire powering the loom.

 

Chassis is negative/black and loom is positive/red.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Andy

[swsambler]

With regard to the immobiliser there is a black wire running round the top of the ignition barrel. The first few time I had to touch the fob to the wire to get the immobilier to disarm. If the fuel pump primes (You will hear it quite clearly) then the immobilser is disabled.

 

Simon

 

Roadsport 175 SV

[fastlady]

Fred, I know this sounds like an odd question but are there two separate markings for + and - on the top cover and main body of your battery, and if so are they the same way around? My last battery (an Exide bike battery, which has now been replaced as it expired in the cold weather!) was like this - the terminals marked + and - on the top cover were actually the wrong way round and the markings on the body (reversed) were correct. Whoever connected it up originally thankfully had noticed this and marked the correct polarities on the top with a marker pen!

 

It's probably worth a check if nothing else

[Pete-B]

I had exactly the same problem after finishing my build, all electrics were ok except starter. I spent ages on the phone talking to CC trying to solve the problem and they kept coming back with it must be earth - (after trying everything else). I told them I'd paid particular attention to the earth connections so it couldn't be that. In the end they decided to to collect the car and trailer it to CC Midlands and much to my embarassment it was an earth problem. I was told not to be to worried because it's something that's easily done, apparantly they put a clear coat on the aluminium scuttle before it's painted and it's easy to think you have a good connection when in fact, unless you clean this right back you haven't.

 

Perhaps and maybe it could be your problem!

 

Peter

[Martin J]

I too had an earth problem on my Sigma home build. The 175 duratec may be different but on mine there was 3 smaller earth wires off the loom near the ECU each with a brass eyelet on. I bunched them together & screwed them down tight under a mounting screw for the map unit & checked for resistance with a meter.

WRONG! Car returned from the post build check with another hole drilled beside the battery, a little paint scrubbed off & a big screw & washer done up nice & tight. The immobiliser is very sensitive to earth faults!! All the electrics worked on mine but it wouldn't crank, like yours I belive.

 

Good Luck

[Rattie]

Fred, the car is negative earth so there is something not right with your setup.

 

Red is +ve, Black is chassis ground and battery -ve

The only place where this seems out of kilter is the brown wire (with a black sleeve) from the alternator +ve to the starter solenoid switched +ve.

 

As Fast Lady suggests, check the battery terminals and polarity (with a meter).

 

Could you take some pictures and post them on flickr or somewhere? I suspect it's a simple problem, but without seeing what you've got its hard to know what's wrong.

 

Martyn

^_R300GRR

 

Edited by - Rattie on 18 Apr 2010 07:20:50

[Alex Wong1697456877]

On my car, the battery connected to the started then another wire took the starter off to the loom BUT this wire was black and I inadvertently earthed it. Result is a totally dead car. Might be worth rechecking your starter motor wiring.