POR 15

[charlie_pank]

Ok, I've had a good trawl of the archives and I can't really find solid guidance on this. The only thing I came away understanding is that I need to be careful not to get it on myself.

 

I'm not re-skinning although at the moment the tunnel and floor are out. I've got to do a fair bit of work under the rear of the car (new brake lines and diff) and have realised that the chassis needs tidying up in a few places.

 

I understand that POR 15 is supposed to be the stuff to use, and I could make a start on it this weekend if someone could explain to me what bits and pieces I need and what I do with them:

 

1) I presume I should use a cordless drill with a wire brush to clean up the bits I'm going to paint first

2) Is there some sort of anti-rust coating to add next?

3) Do I need to put a primer on next?

4) Does the POR15 go on top or should I put a layer of something else on last?

etc...

 

Thanks

 

back here because I want to be.

[Stuart McGill]

Gloves/ facemask/ googles etc etc!

 

1 - Yep, cordless drill/ wirebrush to remove all flaky stuff and then I used some rough sandpaper.

2 - I put it straight on.

3 - I didn't

4 - If its underneath I wouldn't bother. If its on display (i.e Wishbones etc) apparently it fades in time.

 

Mine was on for a year and did when I sold the car recently still look spot on. I would recommend it. Maybe some others that have had it on for longer can comment about the preperation better!

 

Stuart

[bobt]

Application instructions here

[charlie_pank]

According to those instructions, I should just clean the oil & grease off it, but scrub/sand the rust off before applying. This sounds too easy, Is that what others have done?

 

back here because I want to be.

[randybugger]

just done mine, if its seen yhen take some time and get it as smooth as poss before putting on, 2 coats while still tacky then the top "paint finish" when por 15 is dry

 

for unseen bits I just got the flacky stuff off and a rough sand down then 3 coats again,

looks pretty good,

 

dont get in on your hands as its bugger to get off

 

Tony

[irrotational]

Charlie - thats what i did. The packaging clearly states that it bonds better to a rough surface, and actually suggests there is more work to do if you are applying to brand new shiny metal.

 

I did apply the zinc oxide stuff before hand though. dont think it was strictly nescessary but was meant to help bonding and I thought why not?

 

I bought a triple pack of small tins (one primer 2 por15)

 

---

my mind is blank....

[Englishmaninwales]

Charlie

Im just about to do this. The instructions suggest if applied to rusted or bare metal use their degreaser POR Marine Clean and followed by POR Metal Ready, followed by a surface wash with water then apply POR15. If sandblasted, POR15 can be directly applied. Recoat when dry to touch but slight 'finger drag', usually 2-6 hours.

 

Malcolm

[I reply to every thread]

POR = Paint On Rust

[Englishmaninwales]

I guess it just depends how long you want it to stay on the rust.

[EFA]

Be aware it does not key well onto existing powder coat.

[Englishmaninwales]

Yes thanks, I gathered the powder coat is not a good base. Loads was peeling off, so Ive stripped all the areas to be covered back to bare metal.

[jonboylaw]

I used this stuff on my front wishbones and will also paint it on the a-frame, roll cage and areas prone to stone chipping. Has a very tactile feel when dry and will not flake off. I stripped down to the bare metal, used the primer and sparyed on a fair few layers....

 

Also availiable in fluorescent colours and can be made gloss if needed...

 

 

 

 

 

Jonathan

 

My Flickr

 

-----------------------------------

This rebuild has started :)

 

92 Supersprint, Ford LSD LA, RK AX Crossflow.

 

[JACK FLASH]

Hmm ... Plastidip on suspension parts. Why didn' t I think about that.

 

Certainly cheaper than powder coating or nickel plating.

 

Jack Flash