Irish Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 So, jump started car yesterday on drive not having moved since it since November. God those crossflow batteries in the front are tough to get to. Anyhow went for a spin for half an hour and battery dead again this morning. I suspect the battery is fubarred. Now give the car is gehind a locked gate with no steering wheel I am considering currenting power to the immobiliser. Has anyone a nifty solution for cutting parasitic loading on the battery? Preferably something in cabin (I don't like the race style cut out switches). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philwaters Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 You can mount a master cut-out where you like, doesn't have to be on the side of the windscreen. You could put it above your knees, next to a heater control, or over on the passenger side (high enough that they can't knock it). That would kill all power whilst not being used. If you are getting a new battery now, then consider a Hawker/Odyssey which hold charge much better than Banners (when under no load!) Phil Waters Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 If your battery is inacessible, can you relocate it ? Away from heat source ? Have you checked liquid levels in the battery ? If only the immobiliser that is draining it, can use a dainty little toggle switch under the dash to isolate the supply to it when laid up. Just away from where you could knock it accidentally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DubhOg Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 Divorce her? 😬 This unique rally of human life is not meant to be tackled freewheeling, but in full opposite-lock slide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve T Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 I have just tried to do just that. I fitted a switch to the power line of the 5AS unit (says brown wire but mine was green and something) as the idle current was 19mA. Having cut the power using a switch, i measured the current from the battery again and find it still draws 19mA - which is a mystery as it is definately the only wire with battery volts direct, pin 24 i think. So it must be getting the power from somewhere else too, if i disconnect both connectors to the 5AS unit, the idle current goes down to 10mA, so there is something else taking some current too ! In the end I couldnt be bothered so I removed the switch and reconnected the power direct to the immob. I use a conditioner with a timer for a bout 6 hrs per night at the moment but was looking to isolate all parasitic loads like you, but it seems there is a mysterious drain somewhere, any ideas ? K series 1.8 btw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6speedmanual Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 I thought this was going to be a thread about weight reduction.... Peter BRAWNGP green SUPERLIGHT FCITW 2009 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian B Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 I fitted a battery cutoff switch through the bulkhead above the passenger footwell, that kills all circuits except a cigarette socket on the dash that is wired via an in-line fuse directly to the battery. The cut-off isolates all the loads, and the ciggy socket allows the charger to be plugged in without delving under the big flappy bit of metal at the front of the car Picture of rear of cutoff switch before wiring here (must take a few 'after' wiring shots!). Ian - Slightly Vider SVelte SuperVeloce model 😬 - Joint AR for North Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian B Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 On, and if you 'set' the immobiliser (Rover one) before turning off the power, it will still power up 'set' as well. You just have to press the 'unset' blipper button 5 times to re-sync it and unset the immobiliser, once you've turned the isolator back on. Ian - Slightly Vider SVelte SuperVeloce model 😬 - Joint AR for North Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Long Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 IanB, I am very impressed with the installation of your jack etc in the engine bay. What is it you have attached to the steering rack 🤔 Longy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Locust Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 SteveT, there is a permanent feed to the ECU on the Caterham implementation of the Rover EU3 engine. Ian Green and Silver Roadsport 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ged Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 Not sure if they're still available, but one of my old cars had a type of quick fit connector on the battery post. From a hazy memory, it looked a bit like a wing nut, but worked on some sort of cam locking principle, just a ¼ or ½ turn to release. Never had any bother with it working loose, but was easy to isolate when necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian B Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 Thx Stephen Do you mean on top of the Pedal Box? If so it's a reversible Philips/Flat screwdriver (under a velcro retaining strap), the wheel brace, and jack handle. there's also a spare throttle and clutch cable, and belt, strapped tot he chassis rail just in case - not that I'd know what to do with them 😳; but someone with me might 😬 I do a fair amount of touring so keeping that stuff in the front frees up the boot (for electrics! camcorder/recorder/power supplies/switcher/etc) Ian - Slightly Vider SVelte SuperVeloce model 😬 - Joint AR for North Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Long Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 IanB I intend going on the Swiss trip this year. So seeing how these things are done is very important to me. Is car a Sigma 🤔 Yes, sorry for highack ....... Longy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian B Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 Touring on the continent is great, and you get an amazing reaction from the locals The car is a K series SV, so a bit more space here and there to start with Ian - Slightly Vider SVelte SuperVeloce model 😬 - Joint AR for North Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irish Posted February 1, 2010 Author Share Posted February 1, 2010 Back on topic. As I have an immobilisers draining it am I better off with a Banner? Really hoping it is not a carbs out job! A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alextangent Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 Depends on your chassis, but on my xlfow LA you can slide the battery out of the tray, tip it to the side to clear the driver footwell and drop it to the ground. Then lay it on its side and slide out. The only thing you have to watch for is that the filler caps are secure and the overflow pipe hole; I bung it with a bit of bluetack so the acid doesn't leak out. Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian B Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 As I have an immobilisers draining it am I better off with a Banner?Neither conventional (Banner) nor Powervamp will like being drained flat, and an immobiliser will do that to both. The Banner may take slightly longer as it's a higher Ah rating, but not a huge difference. Practical options are a battery conditioner whilst garaged, or a cut-off switch. Powervamp will last longer when left disconnected (fully charged). HTH Ian - Slightly Vider SVelte SuperVeloce model 😬 - Joint AR for North Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irish Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 Emailed powervamp. Thinking of a solar trickle assembly - just need to find a connector for my existing battery setup that I can hook to a panel without the need for crocodile clips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Why not fit a 12V power socket (for use with satnav, phone charger, etc), wired directly across the battery with an in-line fuse. Then plug charger or solar charger into that. No need to lift the bonnet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irish Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 I already have a very handy connector for the trickly charger which runs out by the carbs. Just need a way to hook this up to the panel. Some we be a quick maplin job. Does anyone know if I need a new bracket or will the batter sit in my exising banner tray? Edited by - Irish on 2 Feb 2010 11:28:04 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frying Pan Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 I used the connectors here for my battery conditioner. I ran fused wires direct from the battery into the cockpit and tie-wrapped the connector under the dash. Simple job to connect up, and the cable from the conditioner is very obvious, so no risk of forgetting to disconnect before a blat These are also useful for powering other stuff, but make sure you do add the fuse if running direct from the battery... Since boiling my first Banner dry by leaving it connected to the conditioner all winter, I use the FIA switch to kill all loads - After about 8 weeks in the grage, it started first press of the button last weekend See some pictures of the build here. 17000 miles completed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irish Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 Ordered: Powervamp - £69 including delivery in the sale. Ed emailed from Singapore and office took the order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattobrien Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Irish - fitted a Powervamp at the weekend. Needed a new tray to do it - Powervamp will supply. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irish Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 Thanks Matt. Bracket ordered. Edited by - Irish on 2 Feb 2010 14:10:34 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie_pank Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 If disconnecting the immobilizer from the battery disarms it, then it's a bloody useless immobilizer. Therefore I have always set the immobilizer and then taken the FIA key with me when leaving the car. When I come back to the car I simply pop the FIA key back in, press the lock button 4 times and then unlock once and off we go... back here because I want to be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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