Steve T

Hi, I am able to get replacements from Caerbont but their lead time is about 6 weeks but it looks like the only answer so will have to wait patiently unless anyone has any spare unused ones I could borrow in the meantime until my new ones arrive.

One more question, maybe a daft one as I am not familiar with gauge evolution, are any of the newer stepper motor (Caterham or Stack for example) gauges compatible with the current temp and fuel senders - are they calibrateable (is that a word) and a direct swap? I have a feeling the fuel one may be butnot sure about the temp. I did get a reply from Caerbont but they have a 6 week lead time to supply replacements so looking for alternatives.

Thanks for the advice, I will give them a call, I have new O rings already, it was on my list of jobs. Does anyone know if any of the more recent design Caterham gauges work with the same senders or will they expecting different resistance senders?

My fuel and temp gauges have started to fall apart, the front bezel has come away from the main body and the face is now leaning backwards (falling inside the dash as nothing to press against). I have the original gauges from 2006 roadsport (pictured). Assuming I am not going to touch the senders, is my only choice to replace with the same model Caterham gauge or do any/all of the Caterham gauges work with the same senders? I noticed that they do about 3 or 4 various types from different years so question is really can I buy some newer ones and use the current senders or will they be different spec?

Great deal, I've had one for 6 years and great for road use especially.

Thanks Mark, you are quite right, they will fit any car with longitudinal solid roof bars, any takers, they are very clean now

Last chance, I am going to sell these elsewhere after weekend if nobody needs them here. Thanks.

I have a set of Thule roof bars and feet that came off my BMW 3 series tourer with solid rails (fits MY 2012+). The bars are aluminium aero type 120cm long and the feet are Thule 753 specifically for the integrated rails, there is a fitting kit (4043?) in there somewhere as well. If anyone wants them before i stick them on eBay let me know, i will clean them up a bit but they are fully functional, a few scratches as you would expect, with full set of keys to lock them in place, they have the T bar system as well which means you can use T bar accessories like bike carriers etc easily as well as grab type fixings such as on roof boxes etc. I used them once a year when taking my roof box on holiday and for the odd bike escapade. They are about 6 years old but that's irrelevant really, as they don't rust or anything. Paid about £190 at the time, looking for about £60 for the lot collected from Ringwood, Hants would be easiest or can post at cost on top. Thanks.

It really depends on how much out it was first of all, if you go too far you will find the Lambda goes too lean and still fails as it's quite a tight window. If it helps, and it will be a bit later today, I can send you both of my map files (ie normal and MoT) so you can see where I came from and where I adjusted to at the 2 load/speed sites...I guess what I am saying is you may have got it within the required windows but it took me 3 attempts on the tester to get it inside all 3 windows (actually the HC was ok as the CAT does most of that). The other trick is on the fast idle test, to keep the revs very steady which means keeping your foot on the pedal very still (assuming they allow you to sit in the car) as I found that during the 30 second test, I kept going out of window due to the RPM changing slightly ie by a couple of hundred RPM, it seems when you accelerate slightly the readings are quite sensitive to change for a few seconds and if you are just hanging in the window, it may exceed the spec enough to fail the test. Let me know where to send the map files.

I have almost the same spec engine, DVA 1.8K on TBs, powerspeed, Emerald mapped etc and mine failed the MoT at first with Lambda and HC.......do you have an Emerald ECU? I was permitted to use my laptop whilst at the test station to adjust the fueling at the idle and fast idle speed/load sites on the map until we got a set of pass readings, then I disconnected it for the actual test and it passed of course. I have saved this MoT setting map into one of the 3 maps for future use. I ended up with 35ppm HC, 0.11% CO and 1.02 Lambda but before I adjusted it my CO was way above th max limit and the Lambda was too rich and would never have passed. This all depends on you having an Emerald (or other user configurable ECU), a considerate/flexible MoT tester and a laptop and a bit of knowledge what to adjust - if you have an older Emerald with just one map, you can save the adjusted map to your pc to reload before the next test. I don't see any other way around it unless of course you have a leak etc affecting your reading or a creative examiner which are becoming rarer due to the extra vigilance. My test station had cameras installed last year to record all test activity for random audit/inspection. Hope this helps.

My car is a 1.8K DVA K13 with TBs and Emerald (mapped). One of the issues when I take mine for MoT is getting the readings to remain "stable" and stay within the limits for the 30 second fast idle test. This normally takes a few cycles. The issue I found was trying to keep my foot still on the throttle as every time I speeded up or slowed down the RPM a little within the 2,500 to 3,000 range, the initial change is engine speed caused a 'blip' in the readings which normally jumped outside of the test pass range foe a couple of seconds. The way around this was to control the engine speed by a method other than a human foot, a long stick would do or using the idel speed control screw on the accelerator, one I could keep the RPM very constant, the readings were solid. That may help some people. Thanks

Ivaan, I haven't checked for that, I suppose I had better before I take it out. Dave, I tried to vernier the thread and there was only a bit exposed which seemed to be about 14.5mm diameter.

Mine are the original CC supplied 7" units that came with my kit in 2006. Dave, i will try and measure today and come back.

Dave, I certainly had to remove something like 1mm maybe more and took ALL of the coating off the inside of the hole before I could get my thread through, even then I had to encourage it quite a bit by twisting a lot. Not a problem but just wanted to let you know in case others have a similar tolerance to deal with.

Just make sure they clean the rim very well with solvent before sticking the weights on as half of mine fell off the next day before even seeing the car, and the rest came off easily. It was down to some kind of polish, sheen on the brand new wheels which were still in the boxes. Once we took all the weights off and cleane the rims properly the replacement weights stuck fine. I had 2 x 8" and 2 x 6" black diamond cut apollo's.

Paul, I had the same problem with the hole being too small. I think the powder coating just made the hole too small, I ended up faffing about with a stepped cone cutter each side taking the coating off and using a round file to take a bit off the centre. I then found they fitted with a little pressure. my only concern now is that the bit in the middle has no coating and could be a weak link with regard to corrosion. The only proper way would have been to drill out the hole slightly larger and re powder coat but that is a bit over the top. i am not sure if the lamp bracket threads are different sizes in some cars or what, I am sure Dave would have checked they fitted on a sample before mass producing, has anyone else had a problem?

Keeping with 7" or smaller 5.75" as I am doing the same and can't decide. I'm tempted to keep the larger lights but lowered. I think CC do a metric only lowered bracket as mine is imperial it won't fit.

Thanks Dave

Dave, I have decided to venture up to Stoneleigh today after all so could collect mine in person if you are there today or Nick has a set allocated for me? If not, then postage will be fine. Let me know if you get this message in time. I guess postage then as I didn't see any sign of any at the tent today. Thanks, PM me your bank details and I will make a transfer when you are ready.

Hi, looking to buy a cover for my SV to use in the garage to stop dust etc getting on the car all the time, I'm fed up with wiping it off every time I go in there. looking for something low cost, gentle on the bodywork and sized to cover the whole SV and wheels. Nothing to fancy and not for outdoor use. Any recommendations or suppliers of something suitable?

Bill, CC sell versions for metric chassis, but not for imperial chassis.

Thanks for the update Dave.

I hadn't actually fitted them to the car yet, as I was holding one front wheel up to the hub, a weight fell of as I gently bounced it on the ground - so no fouling on brakes yet but will watch out for that one.

Hi, just had my new Apollo wheels/tyres fitted and balanced and today whilst fitting them to the car, 2 of the balance weights fitted to the inside of a wheel have fallen off. I can see a couple others are loose too. obviously I need to take them back to the garage to have them redone but anyone else had this problem and if so how to resolve? Maybe they need to be cleaned with solvent before sticking new weights on as there could be a film/lacquer preventing the weights from sticking? Or do I need to suggest they use some kind of glue? Thanks for any advise or feedback.

Cheers Nick,