Area Representative IanW Posted June 24, 2009 Area Representative Share Posted June 24, 2009 Hi, My build has finally come to complete standstill. I can't get the engine into the chassis. It seems that the chassis is just too small . Does anyone know if you have to remove the alternator to get the engine in? It looks that this might be my last option. If I have to remove it, how easy is it to re-tension the belt? I assume it's possible once the engine is in the car. I have already removed the RH mounting bracket and the starter motor. All suggestions and offers to help are welcome . Regards, Ian. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Re-tensioning an alternator belt is simple stuff ! See how far it deflects before you remove the alternator, then go for it ! These engines go into S3 chassis, so you have got an easy job ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k80rum Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Hi Ian, whereabouts is your alternator mounted, inlet or exhaust side? I just fitted my engine into an S3 chassis and it slid in a treat without the alternator (I hadn't deliberately removed it though, I just haven't bought it yet ) From some builds I've read people seem to have been advised to remove it before fitted. That's for CC supplied engines which will have an inlet-mounted alternator. Out of interest, are you fitting the engine and box as one unit or have you put the gearbox in first? This seems to be another recommendation from CC although I found it much easier to put everything in as one unit. Best of luck with it Darren E K80 RUM Website and Emerald maps library Home of the long-term, supercharged Duratec project Edited by - k80rum on 24 Jun 2009 20:32:50 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative IanW Posted June 24, 2009 Author Area Representative Share Posted June 24, 2009 SM25T - I was wondering if I have the correct chassis with the amount of trouble I'm having 😬. Darren - Yes, the alternator is on the inlet side. I'll remove it tomorrow and have another go. I tried fitting the gearbox / bell-housing first but the block still wouldn't go in. I think the alternator was still the problem. Just re-checked the manual, and you are correct, the alternator must be removed first . Thanks. Ian. Edited by - IanW on 24 Jun 2009 20:39:48 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsn Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Dumb question maybe but have you got removable diagonals? Things are lots easier if they're removed. Also, you may well find that the angle you have to put the engine is needs to be really high initially, bizarrely so. Once the gbox clears the tunnel you can drop the angle loads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative IanW Posted June 24, 2009 Author Area Representative Share Posted June 24, 2009 The diagonals are fixed. But I am confident that once the alternator has been removed, there will be room to squeeze the engine in . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akakubi Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 The alternator comes off. I had the same issue when fitting my Duratec into the SV chassis. Easy to refit and tension the belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattie Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 Hi Ian, Have you downloaded the R400 engine install doc? It's the same physical engine into the same chassis, so it should help... Direct Link to PDF "WARNINGS...(3) For Duratec engines, Alternator and starter motor must be removed before engine installation." Looking forward to doing the same thing into our R300 SV later in the year. Martyn R300GRR specced and ordered for a winter build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiF Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 Duratec engine definitely will fit 😬 Even with 2 diagonal braces that are not detatchable. You will need gearbox and bell housing in place first. Not sure about your alternator as mine was LHD and fitted on the manifold side. You sould be able to refit and adjust the belt without any problems. RiF Building a real super SUPER 7 with a V6 😬 😬 😬.For Build Pictures and LOTS of Carbon or try CA07BON for Henrietta's 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative IanW Posted June 25, 2009 Author Area Representative Share Posted June 25, 2009 Hi All, It's in! . The alternator came off really easily. The only problem was managing to get the gearbox mounting plate caught underneath the chassis crossmember. It was finally released with a sharp pull of the engine towards the front of the car, which caught my finger (now bandaged up) 😳. Thanks for all the suggestion and, I know, I should have read the manual 😬. Regards, Ian. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Whitley Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 It looks that this might be my last option.No, reading the manual is always the last option Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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