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Dedion hub nut advice


Wrightpayne

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Tomorrow evening I have the hernia inducing task of torquing up the 200ft.lb hub nuts. Unfortunatly my torque wrench only goes up to 210 nm which is 155 ft.lb.

 

 

Any ideas on how many degrees rotation more I need to apply to get to 200?

 

 

Could I do it in 50 ft.lb increments and see how much it turns each time to calculate the final push?

 

 

Alternatively, anyone in South Leics who can lend me one (LE9 6).

 

 

Regards

 

 

Ian

 

 

PS I'll be reusing the existing nuts with loctite studlock!!

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DONT reuse existing nuts they wear never minding the Nylock and the wear can strip the threads on your shafts

NOT a cheap item to replace compared to the nuts *eek*

 

Torque Place a jack handle over a pulling bar and swing your weight down on it

 

Most Ford garages just use a scaffolding pole Ive NEVER torqued mine in 11 yrs and have never had any bother But had to replace stripped shaft on an s3 last weekend *thumbdown* ☹️

 


jj

N.I. L7C AR 🙆🏻

Membership No.3927.

240BHP 1900cc K Series 40th Anniversary

 

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Jonty, you'll get flamed for suggesting that you don't torque every nut and bolt on the car.

 

I don't because I was trained to know how tight they should be by feel. The only fixings that get torqued are main & big end bolts and head bolts. More for eveness than toghtness.

 

 

 

Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here

You and your seven toThe French Blatting Company Limited

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Having done up my hub nuts using the scaffold pole torque wrench it would be nice to have a more gentle approach to this.

 

Those familiar with the air-cooled VW world may have come across this: the Mr Torque Tool. Having used it, it is simple in use & allows one to torque the rear hub nut to 254 ft/lbs using a torque wrench set to 35 ft/lbs!

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Ian i have a great big torque wrench somewhwere if you want to borrow it, i will have to search it out though, last time i used it was for the crank pulley bolt *mad* here will need to find it anyway for my stud upgrade. how did things go 🤔

 

Kevin R

 

black(but sometimes orange)-ali HPC

here

 

Edited by - k.russell on 7 Apr 2009 19:13:54

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Sorry Norman at 60+ I was trained to use the feel approach Like you I only Torque Big end and Main bearings Everything else gets My Elbow 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬

 


jj

N.I. L7C AR 🙆🏻

Membership No.3927.

240BHP 1900cc K Series 40th Anniversary

 

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It's a bit like learning music, speeches etc. The trick is the confidence to do it without the "helper". My Dad as a lifelong mechanic/engineer/technician taught me to do bolts without a torque wrench so I was perfectly happy. Then I built a caterham and thought it a good idea to follow the settings in the build manual. It's hard not to reach for the wench all the time when I am spannering on a caterham (doesn't happen much these days).

 

Never even thought of using the wench on the Radical as I haven't got a list of torques required.

 

Graham

 

 

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Cheers Kev - I'll give you a call.

 

So far so good...

 

New front discs, mintex pads, long wheel studs all round, repacked wheel bearings all round, new boot cover, tall cage on and 4 new CV boots.

 

Left to do...

 

Collect new hub nuts & fit, fix coolant leak on water rail and tax it! Oh and fit half doors and tonneau

 

 

Should be out in it at the weekend 😬

 

 

Ian

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unfortunately Mr Torque will multiply your calibration errors too.
Absolutely but the main advantage is using it to get the nut undone! The VW has a castellated nut so it's easy to mark the position; & guess what, when torquing back up it goes to exactly the right point!

 

The other useful feature is that it bolts to the hub using the wheel nuts so there is none of the lifting moment when trying to do it on axel stands using John Howe's "K" tool to stop the hub rotating.

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