Bob Simon Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 Is the crankshaft bolt on the XE a right hand thread? I've been leaning on it with a 3/4" Ingersoll Rand impact wrench and it still won't budge.(~1000 ft-lbs.) Maybe someone assembled the bugger with Loctite. I considered a breaker bar and 6 foot steam pipe, but was afraid of flipping the shed over on it's shingles. Can I warm up the bolt a bit with a blue-tipped saw? -Bob 94 HPC VX Evo III Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F355GTS Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 Bob I believe loctite is normally used, I've not had the problem of undoing it before so sorry can;t help further Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 I would be tempted to use a long bar, rather than an impact wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 Yes, it's right hand A long tube is the answer. If the engine is on a stand I drive a car wheel on to the stand leg before attempting to undo the bolt. I also use a 3/4" (not 1/2")square drive breaker bar for greater ridgity.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 Its tightened to 185lbft + 45deg so its tight 😳. The Haynes book doesn't say but I think its recommended that the thread should be lightly oiled rather than loctited when fitting. I always use a new bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry Flatters Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 Bob, one other thing. Not sure if the enging is in the car, but the flywheel must be solidly locked out. Just using gearbox/handbrake will not give you sufficient 'purchase' on the job. I use a bent valve on the flywheel teeth to lock it and a 1/2" drive 2' Snap-on breaker bar and heeeeave *arrowright*Harry Flatters *arrowright* AKA Steve Mell - Su77on Se7ener Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Simon Posted April 2, 2009 Author Share Posted April 2, 2009 Thanks Fellas, I'm much relieved to hear that it's RH thread. The engine is on a stand and I have the flywheel blocked with a fabricated bracket bolted to the back of the block. Long 3/4" drive breaker bar and a pipe it is then. Do I need to replace the crank bolt for reassembly? The Haines manual does not mention replacement,although I don't know how reliable the Haines manual is as they rate the oilpump replacement chore as 3 spanners, when in reality it's 3 spanners and a really long eff'ng breaker bar. I noticed that the Haines manual, and most piccys I could find on the 'net, show a twelve point bolt. Mine's a flanged hex bolt. What's up with that? -Bob 94 HPC VX Evo III Edited by - Bob Simon on 2 Apr 2009 13:13:51 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 The old bolt in mine was a flanged hex but the new one from SBD was 12 point. I think new-or-old is a peace of mind thing. Its not a stretchy ARP although 185lbft + 45 deg is a lot of torque. It was a few years ago but I think I had to change mine when I replaced the standard pulley with a smaller poly-V alternator drive pulley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 Replace it ! Think of the consequences (however unlikely) of failure ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mavic82 Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 As Roger says replace it, only 8 quid from the vauxhall dealer. And by the way I think it is a stretch bolt, thats the point of the 185 lbsft and another 45 degrees. Guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 Well, yes they do all stretch but its my understanding that some are critically designed so that they impart precisely the desired amount of clamping force for a given tightening angle. Its not my field at all but those interested might like to read this paperon the topic. Interesting stuff. Either way, I'd use a new bolt 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Simon Posted April 5, 2009 Author Share Posted April 5, 2009 😬 😬 😬 😬BINGO!!! *thumbup* *thumbup* She finally broke loose. Set the engine on the floor and bolted an angle iron to the bell housing bolts to keep the engine upright. Got after it with a long breaker bar and it eased loose, no sweat. Now, back to bolting up the new bits. Thanks for all the ideas! -Bob 94 HPC VX Evo III Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted April 5, 2009 Share Posted April 5, 2009 Well done ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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