Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

How much for Brise Kidney Oil Tank or similar?


davidvoas73

Recommended Posts

Just ordered my Brise "kidney" d/s tank with custom features (internal heater boss, drain plug, specific port layout and sizing etc.) from Mr. Brise today. His quote to me was £295 plus shipping.

 

I consider this a fair price, in part because this seems to be the only available tank designed to fit in that particular location, particularly on Arch chassis.

 

Alaskossie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting comment about the oil temperature when using this tank. Mine generally ran between 5-10 deg lower than the coolant temperature under normal driving but when pressing on, the oil temp would be about the same as the coolant and at sustained high revs, just slightly higher. That all seemed ok to me.

 

Brent

(aka Arfur Nayo)

 

Lotus Elise Probably the best hair dryer in the world! 😬

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Area Representative

I lagged mine because the oil was difficult to get upto temperature during the winter months.

 

Alaskossie

 

Is the internal heater boss for electrically heating the oil?

 

Regards

 

John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice on the Brise d/s "kidney" tank.

 

I did not choose an EasiClean tank in front of a chopped passenger footwell because the Duratec exhaust primaries are exiting close by there (LHD chassis). Also, the intake and outlet piping from the dry sump pump would be unnecessarily long, and would have to pass under or over the bell housing to reach a tank mounted on the passenger footwell.

 

With the Brise, the outlet and inlet are where I want them, with very short runs to the dry sump.

 

Thanks for the advice on lagging (insulating) the Brise tank to maintain operating temps. I had considered adding a jacket of cooling fins, but apparently the tank being in the airstream behind the fan may give enough (too much?) cooling, as it is...

 

The tank heater I am installing is an internal heating element to plug into the mains, to bring the oil up to operating temp before a blat.... requires planning ahead somewhat....

 

 

 

Alaskossie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alaskossie.

 

Brise will put the penetrations in/out of the tank where you need them.

 

A couple of things to consider.

 

1. A drain plug. I did'nt think of this & have to vacuum extract the oil.

 

2. More importantly, my tank was supplied with the male fittings welded to the tank ☹️ A major flaw IMO. If any of the tapered sealing faces or threads get damaged then the whole tank is rendered unusable & would need repairing. Personally my preference would have been for tapped female penetrations welded into the tank (NPT) & the NPT to JIC here fittings then to be screwed into to the tapped bosses. If for any reason the JIC fittings need changing they can be removed & replaced.

 

 

D.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All interesting points -- but the slight forward weight disadvantage of the Brise pales in comparison to the logistics of trying to plumb a d/s tank on a LHD car, where the d/s ports are on the driver's side and any shortened footwell is on the passenger side.... and there is no room to run oil lines over the bell housing to reach a d/s tank on the footwell....

 

Perhaps the oil lines should go forward, around the front of the engine, then under (or over) the primaries to reach the d/s tank.....?

 

Alaskossie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure which DS system your using, but I run Pace with twin return scavange hose onot tein unions on the DS tank and run all 4 of the lines around the front, however you can run the feed hose (tank to pump) under the back of the bellhousing round to the pump.

 

Pace do offer a Y conection to conect to to scavenge pumps to enable the use of 1 return hose.

 

blatmail me if you need more info and details as to which conections I used etc *thumbup*

 

Too young to be old !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can't be asked to go and lift the bonnet to look at what is involved in shortening the footwell ....... anyone want to illumuninate me?

 

In a nutshell;

 

You have to do a headstand in the passenger foot well with a right angle drill in hand. Drill the rivets out and the extended well slips out through the engine bay. Fold up a simple box of 18ga. alloy to the same rectangular dimensions and rivet back in place. I used some blind hole transfer punches like thesewith a rubber mallet to mark out the chassis rivet holes in the new pan. Drill the transfered holes then locate the pan with a half dozen or so Clecos and rivet away. It's much easier done with the engine removed, but can be accomplished in situ. There will probably be a couple of tiny gaps here and there, but a little RTV glorp will seal things up.

 

I took my old foot well to a local P&H contractor that had a shear and box & pan brake. The craftsman made easy work of folding up the new well. The chap had some excellent skills as the new foot well fit perfectly first try.

 

 

 

 

 

-Bob

94 HPC VX Evo III

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...