MarchHare2008 Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 Not sure if its just me but what a pig of a job. Never had any problems with the old chassis but the top mount has now been changed so the bolt runs inside the side skin. Anyone familiar with the old arrangement will remember that you had to push the side skin in slightly to fit the top bolt. The problem now is that the bolt buts up against a bracket when fully withdrawn but has an allen key head on it so you can't get the allen key on the head, nor can you get your fingers behind the bolt to push it in. The angle also causes the bolt to bind on the spacer in the shock and makes it an absolute pain to fit. Must have taken me an hour a side just to get the top bolts in. Still, that's progress I suppose....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 See identical thread from just a few days ago ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJS Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 I believe this is the thread to which SM25T is referring to http://www.blatchat.com/t.asp?Id=160630 I can confirm that it is an absolute pig. I had to file out the spacers too and at just an hour, you're a legend in my book... chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarchHare2008 Posted November 17, 2008 Author Share Posted November 17, 2008 What puzzles me is that the build manual (and some other postings on here) still suggest that pushing the side skin in will allow the bolt to be accessed from the outside. On mine there is absolutely no way this could be done. The top bolt is now a good half inch inside the side skin and a bracket immediately behind the side skin would prevent you pushing it in anyway. I'm sure Caterham must have changed the design recently. If they have then I think they might have cause to regret it. (I certainly did!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myothercarsa2cv Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 I went from the inside on one side, and outside on the other... It was a lot of bother. Persevere, you'll forget all about it once it's finished, until someone brings it up again on BC!!! John _________________________ Bugsy: '82 2cv6 (Hitting it fixed it ) Talloulah: '08 1.6K Classic (Tarnishing nicely ☹️) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Fung Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 Cheers all! The cut down allen key was a gem. Just got through that two session nightmare myself yesterday. Don't know how you found it but the right hand side went in pretty easily, the left hand side? That's a whole other story! Think you guys were being generous calling it a pig, I prefer full blown rabid tusk baring boar of a job! Installing the top of the damper before the top wishbone made it easier to work with and I also marked the angle and length of the bolt when inserted (onto the masking tape I used to protect the shiny paint ) without damper/spacer helped provide an approximation of the angle it had to be to meet the rear bracket. A little percussive persuasion was also required to get the bolt through the last couple of mm of the spacer because of the same binding MH had, only then did the thread meet the bracket to allow the bolt to take itself in when turned, queue grins high fives and sighs of relief. And one hour?! Hats off, I'd like to call it "Damper Unit 0 - Ben 1" but at a ratehr considerable number of hours and cursing I'm happy to call it a draw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myothercarsa2cv Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 You didn't think building a car would be EASY did you? Having built mine, I'm kind of glad I went for bare ali! No paint to scratch!!! John _________________________ Bugsy: '82 2cv6 (Hitting it fixed it ) Talloulah: '08 1.6K Classic (Tarnishing nicely ☹️) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Fung Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 My delusion is fast becoming apparent, but it has been fun so far. Just waiting for the next SNAFU to pounce Then again nothing worth doing is ever easy, right? I could be repeating this mantra for a few weeks to come. I like the idea of bare ali but I know I'm too lazy a person to polish the thing, think the finish in the end will be 'fine layer of road dust' regardless of colour for me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myothercarsa2cv Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 Fine layer of road dust is actually more thick layer of grime on mine... Polishing... Tried that once, maybe again when it cheers up a bit. Either way, I forgot all about the bad bits once I'd got the car on the road and was having uber fun! It'll be the same for you too! John _________________________ Bugsy: '82 2cv6 (Hitting it fixed it ) Talloulah: '08 1.6K Classic (Tarnishing nicely ☹️) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay 28 Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 It might be a bit late to mention this now but make sure you but the damper in the right way up, Caterham is written on the spring, this should be up right, The Blisten writting will be upside down, i didn't notice this and put both dampers in upside down (with Blisten the right way up), the guys at CC said it didn't really matter though, but just a thought! Good luck with the Diff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin J Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 Just an idea If you havn't allready invest in some hex drives. I found the front suspension & many other fixings with allen heads much easier to access than strugling with keys. Plus you can use them with a torque wrench. The exception is the gearbox filler plug. Make sure you have the correct size allen key & loosen the plug before fitting the box in the chassis. You will need to cut down the key (use an angle grinder) to give you enough room to tighten the plug when in situ. Messy job, with gear box oil running down your arm! If your fitting a FIA rollbar, fit it before the rear suspension as it bolts from the underside! What spec is your car? A sigma like mine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Fung Posted November 29, 2008 Share Posted November 29, 2008 Yeah the hex drives have been getting a fair bit of usage already (though they still didn't fit for the upper mount of the left shock). The FIA bar, diff and pretty much all of the rear suspension went in today leaving the watts linkage and anti roll bar left to install, I've actually got another post on that here - Rear ARB - HELP ME!!. Had fun with the diff and found it a relatively painless task actually but rather laborious, let's just say the mallet has proven a trusty friend today, so the diff is in with <.5mm difference either side and i still plenty left in my repetoire of expletives. src="images/smilies/smokin.gif" alt="<smokin>" class="smiley">. As for spec the Duratec is waiting patiently in the corner teasing me to get on with it. How evil is it for me to consider bailing on a chiristening tomorrow and finish the rear end off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z3MCJez Posted November 30, 2008 Share Posted November 30, 2008 FRONT SUSPENSION TOP MOUNTS - NIGHTMARE!!! I've not finished the build yet, but nothing has come close to how hard that was. I got them in from the inside (and in hindsight, I think that the front top mounts should be done before the wishbones to allow a bit more access) but my mate who is also building an Academy car deformed the Ali skin inwards and got them in from the outside. Quite a bend ... I also took a very thin layer off the fixing spacer on the inside, to let the bolt through more easily. I couldn't push the bolt through by hand before doing this. Total time for top mounts 4-5hrs ☹️ Re: gearbox oil, I spoke to Caterham about how they do it, and they fill it before it goes in to the car, and then plug all the holes up. My mate put the oil in before locating the engine/gearbox while I cut down a straight 1cm piece of 10mm allen key and then used a ratched spanner onto the cut-down piece, which was pretty easy. Other struggles have been in relation to the diff, but I followed the advice on here, and suspended with screwdrivers at the top while locating the bottom, and didn't find that any harder than most parts of the car! You need someone to locate the first screwdriver while you are lifting the diff though Jez Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myothercarsa2cv Posted November 30, 2008 Share Posted November 30, 2008 Jez you big wimp. I can remove and fit the diff on my own! You don't need three hands, just one hand to steady and one had to put the screwdriver in. Lift it with your face!!! *tongue* That's what I did anyway, and it only took me 15 minutes to get it back in 😬 John _________________________ Bugsy: '82 2cv6 (Gearbox imploded ) Talloulah: '08 1.6K Classic (Tarnishing nicely ☹️) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z3MCJez Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 Jez you big wimp. Who you calling a wimp? I can remove and fit the diff on my own! You don't need three hands, just one hand to steady and one had to put the screwdriver in. TBH, I did think that I would be able to lift it with the trolley jack and then put the screwdriver in, but then a call to SWMBO seemed an easier solution ... Lift it with your face!!! I'm much too much of a wimp for that ☹️ And while it took a bit more than 15 minutes, it took a lot less than the 4hrs that my mate took, and I'm pretty happy that I've got it in the middle ... Jez Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myothercarsa2cv Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 To be honest, using my face wasn't intentional... I pressed it into position, then figured that I couldn't put the allens in without removing a hand. But I couldn't hold it with only one... So face it was! So I'll retract my comment about you being a wimp, you are merely more intelligent than I!!! *tongue* And also it only took 15 minutes because I was well practiced... John _________________________ Bugsy: '82 2cv6 (Gearbox imploded ) Talloulah: '08 1.6K Classic (Tarnishing nicely ☹️) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew_r Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 I have been trying to get the top damper bolt in all day and still no luck. I can get the bolt through the damper OK, I just can't get the thread to start. If I take the damper out the bolt starts fine. I have tried to wiggle the damper but the bolt jsut won't start, I guess its off centre a bit and you can't get any pressure on it. Are there any tricks or techniques that I should be using. Very frustrated now ☹️ Thanks in anticipation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin J Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 I found a copper mallet very useful for tapping tight bolts in place & then with a bit of luck & lot of *mad*cursing they would take up. Rember plenty of copper grease everywhere & don't hit things too hard! Good luck! Martin My headlamp support brackets were badly made & were miles from lining up. CC said said bend them I said "no you send me another pair" & guess what the replacements fitted just right Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew_r Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 Martin, I have also had to have a replacement headlamp bracket as the original was no where near the correct shape. To be honest I am a bit surprised that this damper fixing is so badly designed. I would have thought this could have been avoided very easily. I'll try the copper mallet, but there isn't much room to swing it and I'm scared about damaging the paintwork. I slip and it's scratched lime green. Edited by - andrew_r on 27 Sep 2009 20:30:28 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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