dreamer_uk75 Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 I've just ordered (and received) a set of DD Ears, as I have just changed from xply to radial. I might have a go at fittin them tomorrow - is there anything to be aware of? Any torque settings I might need, or extra bolts/screws etc. ! Thanks :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 Torques can be found in the build manual. Swapping them is fairly straight forward. ISTR you'll benefit from just unboltin the four bolts that holds the ear to the DeDion tube - and of course the brake line / hand brake cable - and then remove the complete assembly including the driveshaft. By doing so you may avoid having to undo the 41 mm nut. /regin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreamer_uk75 Posted June 22, 2007 Author Share Posted June 22, 2007 I don't have a build manual so does anybody know the torque settings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Kingsley Young Posted June 22, 2007 Area Representative Share Posted June 22, 2007 Dreamer. De Dion ear bolts are 35ibft. Calipers to ears 35ibft. Rear hub nut 200ibft. Dont forget to use locktite on threads of the bolts that hold ears to De Dion tube. Kingsley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 I've just uploaded the chapter from the manual to www.regins.eu/06rearsus.pdf or here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Polisher Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 Before you fully tighten the 4 screws holding the ear it is worth jacking up under the ear to take all the clearance out of the screw holes in the fully loaded direction. This prevents the ear from moving when you hit a bump. Dave H. Mad about S77ENS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreamer_uk75 Posted June 22, 2007 Author Share Posted June 22, 2007 Thanks guys :D Do I need extra screws or can I re-use the existing ones? And will threadlock do the trick rather than loctite? Thanks ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozz Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 Jo I'm already committed to helping Darren with dressing his engine this w/e but could drop off some Loctite if you need it. Can I assume that you'll be doing this by unbolting the bearing housing from the ear and extracting the driveshafts as an assembly with the discs? Bozz McLaren Orange and Black 1.6SS 6 Speed here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 It's always good practise not to re-use nyloc nuts. I think Loctite is just a brand name for a threadlock Edited by - RJ on 22 Jun 2007 22:28:05 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreamer_uk75 Posted June 22, 2007 Author Share Posted June 22, 2007 Ok this all getting horribly complicated - I was hoping it would be a case of unbolt something, bolt it back on again :s Where do I buy nyloc nuts, what size, and Bozz - I have absolutely no idea ! Starting to think this is a bad idea - anybody free tomorrow !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 ISTR they are 10mm, and if you need to undo the driveshafts, those are Sierra special's which I'd recommend you get from CC If you are near Denmark feel free to drop in, then I'll swap (slap) your ears... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 Bozz That's what I suggest... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreamer_uk75 Posted June 22, 2007 Author Share Posted June 22, 2007 You are more than welcome to slap my ears :D So long as you swap them too - Denmark's just a bit far to go :) So are you saying that I should be able to take the driveshaft/disc assembly out as one unit, but if I should have to undo the driveshaft for some reason then I'll need to replace the nyloc bolts, which I need to get from CC? Can I do one side at a time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozz Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 Jo Shall I come round and try to explain? Not now, but perhaps tomorrow at some point? Bozz McLaren Orange and Black 1.6SS 6 Speed here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted June 23, 2007 Share Posted June 23, 2007 I'd recommend that if you undo a nyloc, then repalce it. That said, if you don't have a new nut handy, then you may reuse the old one once and replace it as soon as possible. - You can do one side at a time, no problem. Surrey to where I am can be done in 13 hours... Edited by - RJ on 23 Jun 2007 05:50:18 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreamer_uk75 Posted June 23, 2007 Author Share Posted June 23, 2007 Thanks for the offer Bozz and I would usually take you up on it, but we're at Goodwood tomorrow ! I've had one of those panic moments; Road tax runs out, which means the MOT does too (got to get that done today), then tracking it a week on MOnday which means getting the ears changed and the alignment done before then. My own fault but the date seems to have crept up on me ! If I am still stuck after today I might try to pick your brains over the phone or something though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreamer_uk75 Posted June 23, 2007 Author Share Posted June 23, 2007 Also, where can i buy copaslip and nyloc nuts on a saturday.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlesElliott Posted June 23, 2007 Share Posted June 23, 2007 dreamer - where are you. I have everything you need and can explain how to do it either way (personally, I'd undo the hub nut but that's just me). Charles --- My SuperGraduates 2006 diary My SuperGraduates 2005 diary, My Caterham Academy 2004 build and race diary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Mill Posted June 23, 2007 Share Posted June 23, 2007 There are a lot of different grades of loctite and other makes of locking compound. I would use Loctite 243 which is an oil tolerant medium strength retainer intended to give similar performance to nylocs. You could use loctite 290 which is a high strength retainer intended to wick into the thread after assembly but will be harder to disassemble than you might wish. Don't use loctite 270 (studlock) this is intended for permanent assemble and will give you a hell of a job to undo subsequently (its a blowtorch and lots of force job). Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreamer_uk75 Posted June 23, 2007 Author Share Posted June 23, 2007 Aha I now have a selection of nyloc bolts, some loctite threadlock (no. 243), some copaslip and a torque wrench :D I am J3 of the M3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreamer_uk75 Posted June 23, 2007 Author Share Posted June 23, 2007 Charles - I have blatmailed you :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosetestbestanden Posted June 24, 2007 Share Posted June 24, 2007 (personally, I'd undo the hub nut but that's just me). Well, not just him. I did mine this way and it was pretty straight forward and fairly quick, provided you have The Big Socket. If you choose this route remember that the axle nuts are threaded like the pedals on a bicycle, one left and one right. ------- Chris Ad majorem 7 gloriam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted June 24, 2007 Share Posted June 24, 2007 LH thread on LH side... /r Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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