Hanging a Diff!

[Ian Barkley]

I am trying to fit the differential to the 7.

 

I can get either, the top 11” bolt into position, or the two bottom bolts threaded in, but not all three at the same time!

 

There appears to be a slight discrepancy in the distance between the holes in the differential and the bushes in the chassis which need to be ‘sprung’.

 

Have you any suggestions please...

 

Is the answer a tapered shaft a little smallerin diameter than the 11”bolt? Do you have such a thing?

 

Thanks in anticipation, the SVA seems to be looming...

 

 

Ian B

[John Vine]

Ian,

What model of 7 are you building? As you mention SVA, presumably it's a new kit? If it's all new, have you asked the factory what they think? When I came to bolt in my diff (1999 1.8SS), the only problem I had was supporting the weight of the diff long enough to get the top bolt in (a trolley jack would have been a boon here, but I didn't have one at the time). After that, it was a simple matter to rock the diff back and forth until the two lower bolts slipped in (with requisite spacing washers). Once they were in, I could remove the top bolt and fit the necessary spacers there too. A couple of thoughts: Have you checked that the bolts slide into the chassis bushes and diff tubes freely? Have you got the correct propshaft? The Vauxhall/Rover ones are shorter than the Ford one.

 

JV

[Richard Price]

I recall that my long top bolt would go in one way but not the other due to a slight misalignment of the metalastic bushes.

I also had to grind a slight lead on the bottom RHS M12 bolt in order to get it to start.

I would try grinding (or fileing) a lead on the two M12 bolts.

[Ian Barkley]

John & Richard,

 

I am building a 1600 Academy car, the diff appears to be reconditioned and I have filed out some excess paint from the bolt holes so the bolts can run more freely.

 

As Caterham will not be open until Monday I will try your suggestions in the meantime and go to Donnington this afternoon... Thanks

 

Ian

[NoLimits]

I have just built and SLR.

 

Idealy you need two people but the second need only feed a long thinner diameter rod or screwdriver through the top (long) bolt holes in the chasis and diff whilst you lift the diff into position from below. (On my back diff on my chest i found to be best).

 

Then with this loose diff hanging on the screwdriver you will be free to push twist or pull the lower mountings into place. Then tap the upper bolt through knoking the screwdriver out as you go and placing the washers and spacers in also.

 

The second person need not be mechanical and can do the work from above the car once you have removed the plywood panel in the boot.

 

please email me direct i you wish to chat.

[mikehoile]

To support the diff - use a rope and hang the diff from the roll bar - still a four handed job but it does give time for a breather whilst getting naffed of with bolt alignment.