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So...it was the fuel pump, but...


JP

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Thanks for everyone's help on my starting issue.  I changed the fuel pump today.  Here is the old one:

20220319_153802.thumb.jpg.ae6801e9b3f0850b556c5b0880002498.jpg

Goodness knows where all of that grot came from!  Anyway, I'm pleased to say that after cleaning up and replacing it with a new one I could hear the pump priming when turning the ignition on!  However, I could also smell fuel.  It seems that the main fuel hose has perished and now acts like a sprinkler when there is fuel pressure.  It's quite striking and I have a video, but it seems that I can't upload mp4 to the site.  Anyway, I now have a few other questions that hopefully someone can help me with:

1. I need to replace all fuel hoses. I guess the main hose from the tank will be a specific order (probably from Redline) as well as the wide hose from filler neck to tank, but the others seem to be just cut lengths of hose.  Could anyone give me an indication of the various hose sizes (I/D) and an indication of total length that I am likely to need for each size to be able to replace all of the other fuel hoses, please?

2. I've noticed that lots of the hose clips are the double-ear pinch type, which I'll need to cut off.  Is there any reason not to replace them with std jubilee clips?

3. I'll need to clean out the tank properly to get rid of all of the gunk inside.  I'm thinking a pressure washer through the sender port and the pump hole?  Or will that risk damaging the tank?  Is there a preferred method, ideally using a product that is not complicated to dispose of once the job is done?

4. The sticky-backed foam padding under the tank strap will also need replacing - I guess this must be a DIY store purchase ?  Any favourites?

I'm all ears if anyone suggests anything else too!

Many thanks

James

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You need to use something like 5/16"  (8mm) Gates Barricade hose R14 grade to ensure it copes with E10 fuel. don't be tempted with cheap shite form ebay !

You can remove all the hose and carefully cut off the OE crimped ferrules and reuse the banjo ends and unions and secure with twin ear Oetiker clips ('O' clips)

If you but old stock hose the fuel hose will not be suitable for current fuel.

Roll lengths of Gates hose vary but worth buying a larger roll and splitting with another member or 2.

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7WOW,

All have been exchanged except the pump to filter on the bulkhead - this is slightly newer anyway as changed as part of a safety recall. Pre the latest price hikes I tended to use super UL which is only 5%.

I also ditched the carbon cannister filter in the engine bay and fitted a non return breather at the same time (as per the workshop notice) near to the filler neck.

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I will only add do not use jubilee clips on fuel hose.  As said they do not stay round in the small sizes when tightened.  If you don't want to use O clips then use proper petrol pipe clips that are closed by a small screw and nut.  They do stay round.

As for the foam strip there is a wide variety of adhesive neoprene strip available on that certain internet auction site

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Thanks Guys, I'll get the tank out today and give it a proper clean out and check what else needs replacing and form a list.  It will be interesting to see the state of the sender unit when I take that out...

I'll look at the O clips, depending on the price of a tool to fit them...

Wrightpayne - what is the safety recall and workshop notice that you mention - is that applicable to EU2 K series?

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Safety recall - Caterham posted out a new hose / covering letter a year or two after I built it (so 1999/2000ish) saying there had been a problem with the hose and here is a replacement. They didn't elaborate on the 'problem'.

Looks like you have the workshop notice - it was for race cars spilling fuel out of the tank vent IIRC but also applicable if removing the charcoal cannister just in front of the pedal box if you have one (cannister not pedal box)

regards

Ian

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So the tank is out and a new problem has emerged, which might be a real issue.  I want to check the sender, but all but one of the mounting screws seem to have seized and the rivnut underneath is rotating.  It's currently soaking in WD40, but doubt they will free up sufficiently...

Any one have any tips for removing screws stuck in rotating rivnuts?  Perhaps cut the screw heads off, remove the sender unit, then remove the rivnuts with the screw shaft in place and then new rivnuts?  Tank is currently washed out and airing outside..

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  • 3 weeks later...

So a brief episode of COVID has held me up until today.  But what a day it has been!

New fuel tank, pump, sender, hoses, filter and unions.  All fitted today with a splash of new Super Unleaded and it burst into life!  Good oil pressure, no fires, no leaks and it all seems to be running smoothly.  To say I'm delighted is an understatement!

However, there is one small but irritating problem. The grommet for the hole that the pump-to-filter hose passes through is rotten.  I have found one that roughly matches, but I can't get it in.  Can anyone help with the exact size of grommet that I need - ID / OD etc please?  Or should I re-route the hose around the hole and just cable tie it to secure it?

Also, is there a magic technique for getting grommets in?  It's a job that always holds up progress and seems to take me forever.

I've now got a K-series fuel tank that I don't need.  If anyone wants it they can have it for free.  But there are some catches: (1) you have to collect it - I'm around Richmond / Twickenham; (2) the sender is stuck in the tank - I tried to remove it, but the rivnuts are just spinning - I guess you could drill or grind off the screw heads (3) it was full of old fuel gunk so it would need a good clean.  But on the plus side, it doesn't leak!

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