tbird

Martin Side by side in the lardy nosecone, you had me thinking I was imagining things when you replied, had to check on CC website, (garage is about 10 minute walk away), Luckily it confirmed Cooling fan CSR 2 required per car, phew senility not set in yet 285mm diameter both sucking cheers Tim Edited by - tbird on 26 Jun 2009 23:28:41

Martin Hi, Nope they are both for cooling, but maybe air con would be nice for the tunnel, I wonder if I can squeeze a 3rd in somewhere, maybe like the old Brabham BT46B to suck air from underneath and vent through the gear shift gator Gerhard thanks for info I am a little happier now

out blatting today, hot weather, caught in traffic for short time in city centre, temp fairly quickly up to 100c got moving again and fairly rapidly it was back to normal 82c, anyone know what temp to fans kick in (didnt hear them start up but may have done) what temp do others see when crawling in traffic on hot day CSR 200 cheers Tim

another possibility, a sprung toggle, relay and timed hold on circuit, plenty 555 circuits available on t'interweb

Not sure how reliable that would be, depends at what Vdiff the relay would trip at, I suspect it might operate in all states as you would always have a Vdiff of at least 7 volts maybe you would want a diode circuit or similar in there to fix the switching voltage at say 11 volts would it not be easier just to fit a toggle switch Edited by - tbird on 22 Jun 2009 14:08:38

why would you only want it only to run properly in Hampshire 😳 sorry already got coat on

so do we know why that fuse, supposedly instruments, also kills fuel pump

Hooraah another Cat back on the road 8 lives left

edited to remove irrelevant info, misread thread Edited by - tbird on 21 Jun 2009 19:32:01

first have a look at your battery leads one of them will be connected directly to the engine or Chassis, normaly the negative terminal. with battery disconnectedthis will be your earth point, get someone to help if possible and hold one meter lead firmly on the lead, set meter to lowest Ohms range and press other probe onto the engine somewhere, you should get a low reading, Idealy less than 1 ohm, you may have to use the point of the meter probe quite firmly to get through any gunk, once you have confirmed what that low reading is, anything more than a couple of ohms and you dont have a very good connection, you can repeat between the battery lead and each side of the fuse holder (with fuse removed) if you get a low reading, again less than a couple of ohms on one side or the other then you probably have a short to earth somewhere, if both sides are greater than say 10 ohms the wiring is probably ok, BTW you said that some of the fuse sockets were 0 ohms, was this with fuse in or out, I would be a bit concerned if you are getting 0 ohms accross a fuse holder with fuse removed Tim Edited by - tbird on 21 Jun 2009 18:44:24

Any joy measuring fuse holder (without fuse fitted) both sides resistance to earth, this would pretty much tell you if you have a trapped wire as there would be a permanent v low resistance to earth, maybe safest to have battery disconnected although from what you have said, keys out of ignition would also be ok keep hunting you will find the problem

Tma hi, sorry couldnt be more specific, I have recently bought a CSR and this has a Sterling Excel immobiliser fitted (Toad Powerkey) I suspect yours is similar, I remember reading somewhere (and I am Bu66ered if I can find where) that it immobilises Fuel pump and starter motor, but it also has a circuit built in so that if it is tampered with/disconnected it has a fail to earth relay that earths out a main fuse which causes it to blow, thats all I can remember at the moment and as I say I cant find the source, sorry I will try and find the reference again tomorrow, good luck in meantime, BTW have you tried ringing CC techs to see if what is happening could be caused by the immobiliser, I am begining to doubt myself now If you have a meter you could check both sides of fuse holder to earth with ignition off, that may start to narrow search a little Tim

Hi I am fairly new to 7s but seem to recall reading somewhere that the imobiliser is designed to blow a main fuse if it is tampered with/disabled, maybe a relay which defaults to earth when power removed, could this be the answer, as I say I am a newbie but someone with way more knowledge will be along in a minute

yes have got seperate 4 into one cat Hmmm just looked at powerspeed website, looks Lurvly but two small problems, its a long way to Ashford from the Scottish borders and they look a tad pricey, having just bought a house and had an 80 sq metre garage added for Cat I think I may have to live with CC or raceco for moment, thanks for suggestion though, maybe consider in future, there is also a good exhaust guy in Macclesfield who my brother uses for his GT40 rep and his race SD1 so might have to talk to him. Tim

Finaly got round to measuring can It is 5" so I guess I need to blow moths of cheque book and ordr a new can, now 7.25 raceco or 7" CC race thanks for replys Tim

Vacuum building in fuel tank? seems pretty unlikely, but when scraping the barrel and all that Tim Edited by - tbird on 7 Jun 2009 23:37:36

Bit off the wall but I had a similar problem years ago, not on a 7, but it finaly traced to flakes of paint coming loose in fuel tank and blocking outlet , as soon as I stopped the suction stopped and the flake of paint dropped away, would be ok until another one got disturbed, maybe on a bend, bloody 🙆🏻 to find tho, had to remove tank and get it steam cleaned in the end good luck

Gavin cheers, I need to find a noise meter now to compare SM25T its a sealed can so I guess its wire wool, does this go for the 7" CC race can as well, Paul haven't had time to measure can today, will try tomorrow, has any one any thoughts on noise level for CC 7" Race can compared to Raceco 7.25 can, I guess its the normal answer "you gets what you pay for sir so stop being tight" thanks for help so far Edited by - tbird on 6 Jun 2009 00:41:17

Having recently aquired a CSR 200 I am wondering if silencer needs replacing, it sounds great but I suspect a little loud, I can see no record of a new can being fitted so I guess its been on since new, around 3.5 years and 10K miles with occasional track days, to be honest I am not sure if it is a 5" or 7" can, although I think 7" is standard fit (will measure tomorrow) does POBC think changing for either a new CC exhaust or maybe a Raceco would be a good idea, car primarily for Fun/Touring. Cheers for help in advance

do we know if its front wheel dribe or rear wheel dribe

probably a really stupid question I am thinking of doing similar but what are "Whimps" *mad*preparing to be embarrased

Thankyou, you can carry on sleeping now, leaving some tinnies behind shed for inconvenience

just south of Carlisle around 5pm Sunday, sorry spotted too late to

SWMBO proxy spotted, yellow 7 on A69 heading east past Hexham around 13-30 yesterday