Solo

Mark I've not looked at Blatchat for weeks so have only just read about your issues. I built my 420R 3 years ago and had a few frustration along the way, but nothing like the problems you've had. As others have said, the hassles are genuinely worth it once you get to drive the car. But, if you want to sell it I'd approach a specialist like Seven & Classics as their prices are likely to be more reasonable and their customer service is great (I can say this from personal experience, and have also been on the wrong end of some pretty dreadful service from Caterham). Good luck with whatever you decide to do. Steve

Now Sold

Now sold

This item: https://caterhamparts.co.uk/other/2148-cooling-submarine-rover-2-outlet.html New and unused. £36 from Caterham so how about £20, postage extra.

Original Caterham suppled item in original packaging and unused. This item: https://caterhamparts.co.uk/other/1056-lambda-oxygen-sensor-catalytic-exhaust-eu3-rover.html £130 from Caterham but I know you can buy these much cheaper elsewhere. £30 plus postage.

Standard boot cover, to fit car with hood sticks. Original Caterham item, unopened in original packaging. Part number 73461, link to Caterham parts: https://caterhamparts.co.uk/boot-covers/4158-boot-cover.html £132 new, so how about £60. Postage extra. Cheers

Jonathan - I'll take a couple of canisters and a red bag please. Thanks

I've got a complete headrest support (supplied with a 2003 R300 that had a single diagonal FIA bar). It's never been fitted but it's been hanging in the garage roof for 14 years so may need a clean! PM me if you'd like it - pretty sure it won't fit my 420R so useless to me. Cheers Steve

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Spoke with a very helpful chap at Caterham today (Mark) who suggested that my idle speed was too low. It was around 900rpm, I've now set increased it to 1,200 which seems to have done the trick - idles fine when cold but obviously sounds a bit higher than I'm used to when warm. They told me that the coolant sensor rarely gives trouble. I'll keep an eye on this but hopefully it was a simple fix. cheers

Ok, so Saturday started car as normal - ran for a minute or so as normal then stalled. Sat in the car, started instantly and went out for a couple or hours or so with no issues. Yesterday car started but wouldn't run without me applying some throttle. 10 miles later it still died at idle. Once it was properly warm all seemed fine. Tonight it's still won't idle without me applying some throttle. I've checked all the connections to various sensors on the car are fully clicked home. It's full of fuel (I filled it after 10 miles last night). Finally, it hasn't got wet for months. It's 7 months old with 2,300 miles. I shall try to speak with Caterham tomorrow but suspect they will want to see the car. Any ideas about what I could check myself - it would be nice to avoid taking a day off work to do the 200 mile round trip to Sussex. thanks Steve

Mark - it was supplied for a car with an FIA bar, but I don't actually know whether the cover would be different for a standard bar. Other than the method of construction, isn't the only difference with the FIA bar the cross bracing which doesn't come near the book cover?

Brand new boot cover, genuine Caterham item still in its original, unopened packaging, Part number 73461 - to fit cars with hoodsticks. £107 from Caterham, how about £75 to include postage to mainland UK?

Likewise I've got an engine crane in North Essex if you're nearby.

Likewise, I just put them where they looked right and drilled new holes as necessary.

Thanks to those who contributed here and to the two people who sent me private messages. I spoke with Derek today and he confirmed that everything is ok. For the benefit of others who fit a Duratec / Mazda combo in future, it is normal for the gearbox to be in contact with the heat shield all along the passenger side of the tunnel. Equally, the bellhousing pretty much touches the front of the footwell on both sides. It's reassuring to know that this is normal, but it still seems odd that everything is so very tight! cheers. Steve

Re choice of gearbox, I tried box options and preferred the Mazda. Clearly this is very subjective, but I thought the gear change was much sweeter. On some tracks I guess the 6 speed option will be better, but I'm not fussed about ultimate lap times. On the road I think the Mazda option will be much nicer. So, for the mix of use i will have with the car I think the 5 speed makes most sense. I've left the engine / gearbox for now and will check with Derek on Monday. The gearbox is touching the heat shield on both sides and the bellhousing is just touching the heat shield in one place, but it is all clear of the chassis members. This is as good as I can get it and will double check with Caterham before I start connecting everything!

So here's a photo. As you can see, the gearbox is too close to the passenger side. The manual simply tells you to adjust gearbox on its slotted mountings - but there's only very minimal adjustment fore and aft on the bolts though the chassis rail and zero adjustment in the central two holes.

Ok, I'm after some suggestions please. I'm in the process of fitting the engine & gearbox into my 420R. The assembly is in the car, all mounts are loosely fitted but I'm struggling to get the gearbox centralised in the tunnel - it's touching one side and pretty close to the other. Is it just a case of leveraging the assembly around or is there something else I need to do? There seems to be pretty much no space anywhere! It's the new Mazda gearbox if that makes a difference. Any suggestions welcome! Hoping for inspiration whilst watching qualifying. cheers Steve

I'd be interested Grant, the jack is on my list of things to fix! cheers.

Richard I've got a set of cams from a 2003 R300 (a throttle bodied engine, not vvc) in the loft somewhere. They came out of the car in 2008 (ish) when is had a new head (and lots of other stuff) from DVA; engine had done around 8,000 miles. If you're interested I'll dig them out and check their condition. Steve

Thanks for the replies. To clarify, I'm after a normal S3, not an SV. Mark, YHM.

As it says, looking for an SLR or R400. Must be in decent mechanical condition and be well looked after. Might consider a lesser model which has been modified to 200 ish BHP, provided the work has been done properly. Thanks.

Now sold

Correction - it's a hatchback! In my defence, I rang my father to ask and he told me it was a saloon and then phoned back to say it was a hatchback.

It's a 4 door saloon in red.