Solo

Okay, 2003 R300 with dry sump and roller barrells. Got the old thermostat out - awkward, but no worse than expected. However, I simply can't get the new thermostat to seat into the housing. I can only get a couple of fingers on the bl##dy thing so can't get sufficient pressure to make it seal. Are there any tricks here that others have tried? It looks like I could possibly take the entire housing out, but am reluctant to disturb the seal. Is this the only way to get the thing in? The one plus side is that the old thermostat was definitely knackered (won't open) so hopefully that was the cause of the overheating problem! Any ideas very welcome....

I specced a dry sump from new, 'cause I always knew I'd end up tweaking the engine at some point! Consequently I don't think I have any issues with oil surge, etc.

If you just want it to be quieter and smoother than I would recommend one of the large Rxxx exhaust (one was for sale on here a while ago) along with verniers and a re-map. The big exhaust makes a massive difference to the noise, proper timing and mapping unique to your engine will make things much smoother, etc. My R300 has was DVA'd last year (a full on upgrade to 244bhp / 167lb/ft) but as well as being miles faster it is much, much nicer to pootle around in. Fundamentally it depends on how much you want to spend and what you want to achieve - why not ask Dave Andrews and see what he suggests? Steve

They're the standard ones.

For AP 4 pot calipers. New and unused, I've decided to try some Pagids instead. Caterham price is £70.50; looking for £50. Contact via blatmail of phone on 07919 171493.

Apologies if this is a numpty question. New Pagid pads arrived from Performance Braking today. I've got the Caterham 4 pot arrangement on the front and the existing (original) pads have holes in the back plates for the 2 retaining pins to go through. The Pagids don't have these holes. Is this right? They look the right size and shape so do the retaining pins just sit behind the pads to keep them in place. Would be nice to have some reassurance before I strip the things down, etc. Cheers Steve

I definitely prefer the OPL format - more relaxed and you tend to get much more time on track. My only real concern would be for the novices amoungst us, but if we get positive feedback from them then that's fine.

The loom's not for sale I'm afraid - it's been modified to use an Emerald and is still in the car.

Cams from a 2003 R300 that had done 8,500 miles when it was fettled by DVA last year. In perfect condition - £100 MBE from the same car with the standard Caterham map. No idea what this is worth, so make me an offer. Respond by blatmail or call on 07919 171493

I think I paid £235 for the lowered floor, bought it from Caterham. Also got one that was powdered coated black to fit in with the rest of the car. I guess it drops the seat by around 50mm, enough to give me decent clearance from the roll bar when I have a helmet on.

Jeff I did this a month or so ago. It's fairly straighforward and there are some decent posts on here which will help. To answer the questions: A - I used the existing ones. For the outside this is dead easy as the lowered floor uses the same holes as the side panel. You there drill out the rivets, slide up the new floor between the side skin and chassis rail and use the holes in the skin to guide you. For the outside I used the old floor as a template having first marked a couple of holes at each end to ensure that things would line up. B - the brace I used had an obvious cut-away to allow the handle for the seat runner to pass through - i.e. this ensures that it doesn't stop the seat moving. C - certainly I did. I also filled the chassis rails with waxoyl first. Good luck, and if you have a compressor get yourself a rivet gun for it as it will make things much quicker and easier! Steve

Thanks for all the responses. Thought I'd give you a quick update. The D-Link router has now been replaced by a Netgear DG834G. I've had this running for four days now and so far it's been perfect (let's hope I haven't spoken too soon). This would tend to support the theory that talktalk and D-Link don't like each other, unless the techies at the shop found some other problem whilst they were installing the new router. Cheers Steve

Model is DSL-G624T. Don't know how to look up the firmware revision

Thanks Guys Next numpty question - how do i change the channel? Having a look at this at home now and can't see how to do it!

Numpty computer question.... Bought myself a new laptop (Acer Aspire 5130 I think) and a broadband router (D-Link) a few weeks ago. Broadband works perfectly with the old talktalk modem I already had, and is fine with the new router all the time I'm connected with an ethernet cable. However, connecting using wireless rarely lasts for more than 10 minutes and has never worked for more than an hour. The router is within a couple of feet of the laptop. I've taken the whole lot back to the shop I bought it from four times now and they've checked everything and I'm now on the third new router. Whilst I'm tempted to just give up now, can anyone suggest anything else to try? Cheers Steve

Gavin Another vote for DVA. I was in the same position last year and considered all the options. For me, trading in the car made no sense. After a huge amount of consideration I took the car to Dave Andrews a couple of months ago. It now has 244bhp and 177lb/ft (asked for 200 bhp but things got a little carried away 😬). As well as the obvious performance gains it is now miles nicer to drive at low speed and around town, presumably 'cause it has a decent map. Happy to give full details of the work done. Steve

Sunday afternoon is fine with me. Can you call me - 07919 171493 - to confirm whether you are coming.

Colchester, North Essex

I've just pulled out a gun cabinet which had been built in to one of my bedrooms. Very good condition, other than being covered in wallpaper (yes really). No rust. Key for main door and small ammunition compartment within. Built to accommodate 6 shotguns. Free to anyone who wants it - or perhaps an appropriate donation to NTL. Seems a shame to take it to the local tip. Call me on 07919 171493.

I've just bought a new Micro Roadpilot (thanks Julian) so I am selling my Morpheous Geodesy Plus unit (complete with instructions, modem interface, 2 x dashboard mounting Kits, etc). All boxed and ready to go, includes subscription (required for the updates) up to end of July. More info on their web site http://www.morpheous.com/roadpilot.asp under Products Geodesy Looking for £80 e-mail or call 07919 171493

Yes please Geoff

1997 R, one owner, FARSH (including recent cambelt, tensioner & variator change), 56k miles, Tax and MOT until end of October, Rosso red, electric windows, electric sunroof, driver & passenger airbags, ABS, CD autochanger. £2,850 For more details call me on 07919 171493. Car is in Colchester.

Darren My R300 doesn't have these problems either - pulls smoothly at low speeds regardless what gear it's in with no hesitation. It is a bit tricky to start from cold though - Hyperion will look at that when they do the 500 mile service next Monday. As an aside, I took the Cat off yesterday and it now seems to pop and crackle a bit more - lovely! Steve

Thanks for the replies - it's reassuring (?) to know that I'm not alone with this problem. I've just spoken to Caterham who have confirmed that this is a known problem at the moment and they are investigating a correction. There is no time frame for this. My name is now on the list to get the fix when they have it - I suggest that anyone else with the same problem gives them a call. Just to clarify, my LSD produces a VERY loud whine CONSTANTLY at lower speeds regardless of which gear you're in. It's louder than the engine, exhaust, etc. At higher speeds it seems to go away and it's not noticable at very low (sub 30 mph) speeds. It makes the car very infuriating to drive, especially when surrounded by Sunday drivers! Steve

Picked up my new R300 from Dartford today - it passed the SVA on Monday . Noticed when driving home that the diff is very noisy - a constant high pitched whine at 30 - 50 mph which seems to disappear at higher speeds. The noise almost disappears if you depress the clutch. I have an LSD fitted. Is this noise normal with an LSD? My last Caterham didn't have one and never made any noise like this. I'll speak to the factory on Monday; any thoughts? (ps I checked that the diff oil level was right - it was - and there was lots of swarf on the magnet behind the filler bolt. Is this normal?) Steve