Benedict.

Excellent; my first spotted, is not just a spotted, but a spotted-spotted - all makes perfect sense to me. 😬 I live about 2 mins away from where I saw you - in Thorpe Astley (opposite the meridian/vue cimema complex) Are you local too? Quoting Mavic82: Lots of elbow grease on the exhaust some years ago 😬 Which polish did you use? If it lasts "years" and still looks that good, then I'm more tempted to do mine 😳 Cheers, Ben

HI Guy, yes, very local - see our other spotted thread 😬 Ben

I was in the blue seven from which we exchanged brief greetings before you continued towards Narborough way, while I was turning left down Soar-Valley Way. Lovely looking car - and I wish my exhaust was that shiny 😬 Cheers, Ben Edited by - _Benedict_ on 22 Sep 2012 20:20:40

Quoting sforshaw: Wrong.Blunt but to the point, I guess 😬 To be fair, all it is is a direct quote of the VOSA booklet. I'm not saying that all cars are now emissions exempt, just, as per the book, ones with this "W" in position 10. OK, this therefore may not help the 2006 car get through, (my bad for not having memorised the VIN dates/7faq 😳) but, as with my car (and possibly the OP's) registered in 1999 it's critical. My kit was evidently manufactured in 1998, and so it has a "W" in position "10" of the VIN. It wasn't registered, however, until mid 1999, meaning that it falls neatly into the specifically mentioned exemption, being outside the "all amateur/kits reg'd before Aug'98" remit, but still exempt. It would seen that this specific addition in the vosa emissions guide is to take into account kits manufactured before cat compulsoryness(!) and so potentially non-compliant, which take months / years to be put together and/or registered. Hopefully that's at least saved some people from buying a cat ❗ Ben Edit for more carpy speeling Edited by - _Benedict_ on 22 Sep 2012 09:39:16

Quoting 7 wonders of the world: No, last time I took my car for test prior to selling it in 2011 (my car was a 2006 CKD), the guy who test all my cars said they had an update relating to kit cars from Dtp, we went through the update and it specifically refered to i think the 3rd letter in the VIN in Caterhams, if this was i think K it indicated a CKD (Kit) and there irespective of year was subject to smoke test only factory cars were classed as new cars and were subject to cat year dependant cat tests. If I head over to the garage I will speak to him and try to get the respective MOT section and repost. I think you are right - though there appears to be a couple more digits in the VIN to take into account. If you look at the MOT testing Manuals, on the VOSA website, the top item in the small table is the "In Service Exhaust Emission Standards for Road Vehicles - 17th Edition" (published Feb 2012) In here, in the Caterham section, it says: "Where the 10th digit of the VIN is equal to or less than 'W' and the 6th digit is 'C' or 'K', the vehicle concerned should be considered as 'amateur built' and as such should receive a visual smoke test only." Screencap: Ben

It'll be in the post tomorrow, so you can either use it, or nick the bulb out of it, *arrowup*as above . Ben

I have one going spare from my recent dash redesign/rewire. The rocker plastic is a little faded, but no more than most I imagine; I've just checked and the bulb still works and the contacts meter OK. ETA: If you want it, just BM me your address and I'll shove it in the post... Cheers, Ben Edited by - _Benedict_ on 18 Sep 2012 08:48:19

BM went a while ago, though I obviously can't tell to what email address. If it still hasn't turned up, if you want to send me a mail on: ************************************** I'll get back to you. I'm out and about at the mo, so typing this on my phone, will be back to email properly later. Cheers, Ben Edited by - _Benedict_ on 10 Sep 2012 10:24:48

Can I take this please? BM on the way sent. Ben Edited by - _Benedict_ on 8 Sep 2012 12:27:43

Didn't clock any more details other than it was a jolly nice looking orange 7 going towards Thorpe Astley on the Meridian business Park Here We were on foot, walking in the same direction, so didn't have time to notice much! Ben (from Thorpe Asltey!) Edited by - _Benedict_ on 3 Sep 2012 00:00:34

Hi, Can I have: 1 x throttle cable (to suit RHD K series - new) £12 each Clutch cable (used but good condition) £10 Heater valve pull cable (new) £10 (Knob keeps coming off mine ) 3 x K series oil filters (MG Rover branded) £7 each Pair of engine rubber mounts (new - complete with large caphead bolt) £28 BM on the way... Edit: Blatmail sent Ben 😬 Edited by - _Benedict_ on 16 Aug 2012 11:41:10

Quoting Paul Deslandes: Assuming you don't get a new battery first, if the fault occurs again, try switching the FIA switch off and on again and/or wiggle the battery terminals in case they're loose inside the battery.Thanks Paul, I'm really racking my brain now, trying to remember if I did wiggle the FIA switch (which for some reason is under the bonnet (as installed by a previous owner)) when I had the problem ❗ I've dug out the receipt for the battery from the car's history and it is even older than I thought at 9 years. The manufacturer's website quotes a life of 8-12 years, so I suppose it's not unreasonable that it, or a cell within may be close to death. I'd also not considered a loose connection inside the battery itself, I feel a wiggle session coming on later. Cheers, Ben

Quoting skydragon: I have experienced this exact same thing and found on my car the cause was the solenoid connector on the starter motor itself was not making a good connection. It's a crimped on spade/blade connector type arrangement and it sometimes becomes loose. I've had this happen yesterday where (again...) when trying to start the engine, it wouldn't turn over more than 1/4 or 1/2 a revolution. On looking closely the spade connector had come off (again...) and was 'just' touching the blade. Enough for 'something' to happen, but not a good enough connection to allow the current flow needed. I pressed it on and hey presto it started as normal. Thanks for this, experience is always particularly valuable; sounds like I need to more thoroughly (re) check the physical electrical connections. Ben

The Battery is way over 2 years old, so possibly coming to the end of its life. It's definitely not a heat (only) thing though, as when I arrived home, the first thing I did was try it again, hoping to see what was going on with a DVM. It started perfectly about 4 times before I gave up trying to get it to fail. When it wasn't starting - it wasn't marginal either it would only turn the engine for what appeared to be no more than 1 or 2 compression strokes, very slowly, then stopped. I can't imagine how, but I don't suppose that Brise starter motors have ever contributed to this type of intermittent starting? Ben Edited by - _Benedict_ on 23 Jul 2012 10:05:33

Thanks for the input Paul, I've checked all the high current connections mechanically, and I'm confident of the alternator/regualtor (I am assuming that 20mV ripple is OK for these batteries). I'm really glad you mentioned the headlights dropping out though, as that's jogged my memory that the power to the gauges was dropping off when it was failing to start (somehow I had just looked past this), so that does suggest that the solenoid is properly engaged. As it's behaving impeccably now, I'll have to decide whether to risk it, carry a DVM, and see how it goes, or just stump up for a new battery so as not to get marooned somewhere with no willing pushers around! Ben

I have an Odyssey PC680 Battery that has been behaving fine, giving excellent cranking when cold/warm/hot since I acquired the car in March, until (possibly) yesterday. We stopped (second time in the 3 hour journey) yesterday for a coffee and when returning to the 7, I couldn't get it to start; it would only crank for half (maybe one) revolution before just seeming to run out of ooomph. I tried several times and it was the same, it certainlydidn't sound electrical like the soloniod or relay were dropping out as you could sense the starter was still trying from a slight whine and it would do another half rev when released and re-applied. Fortunately the 7 had generated its usual good natured interest, so a push-start from several helpful chaps was easy to come by and got me home. Normally I'd expect this to show the battery had died (I've had several normal ones die quite abruptly in the past) but on arriving home, it started perfectly every time I tried it, and has been fine from cold this morning. I'm still suspicious of the battery, but these Odyssey things aren't cheap and I don't want to replace it unnecessarily, so wondered if anyone could suggest any other likely causes. We're supposed to be taking it to Scotland on Wednesday, so I want it to be reliable and I've not got much time to get a replacement (of anything!) Ben

It may be the case that neither (electrical) end of the sensor is connected to earth, ie the sensor is floating. Either way, as the sensor has 2 wires going to it, I would be inclined to use a dpdt switch and switch both wires simultaneously. DPDT switch: http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/symbols/swdpdt.gif You can get them in many styles and sizes, as is your want... Ben

Nothing to do with me, just browsing here and eBay on a terminally dull nightshift, and spotted these Ben Edited by - _Benedict_ on 20 Jun 2012 01:10:54

Quoting Roger Ford: Anyone know of a cheaper deal than this on ebay at £46? This one's somewhat more expensive, and ships from Canada, but does have certain attractions. How about here, as they're the supplier that the Pela Pumps website links through to - about the same price as well, and you're guaranteed to get an actual Pela pump, not a cheap "equivalent" as happened to me when I ordered from an online marine supply shop. [must resist making "suck" jokes about the Canadian one 😬 ] Ben Edited by - _Benedict_ on 5 Jun 2012 11:07:33

Quoting Myles: Probably multiple factors at work, but I don't believe any injection engine should need a blip on startup - that was my received understanding anyway.I totally agree about not needing any throttle to start if set up properly, which is why I'm 100% sure that it didn't used to do this, as it was something I specifically looked for when viewing cars Quoting Myles: Can you recalibrate the TPS? Just because it reads 0% at closed-throttle doesn't mean that the calibration is correct. It could still be reading 0% at a quarter-open for instance. The Emerald does allow you to recalibrate the TPS - I would be surprised if the DTA doesn't. Worth a starting shot. The DTA does indeed, but I've already checked ( & just re-checked) that the tiniest of movements of the throttle moves it to 1%, so that does seem fine. Do appreciate the input though, cheers. Quoting charlie_pank: Old fuel?The fuel initially was quite old, (1/4 tank). Filled it up, but to no avail - I am assuming though that a mile or so and some idling is enough to mix enough of the new fuel in (I'm assuming that the fuel recirculates from the regulator, as there's what appears to be a return pipe heading back to the tank) Quoting charlie_pank: Low fuel pressure?This does seem possible, but not knowing what pressure it was mapped on, could be awkward to prove, even if I could measure the pressure. Is it worth trying a new fuel filter; on a 7, could one clog in such a way as to cause these symptoms? Can't be that hard to change I guess. Quoting charlie_pank: Sticky injector? How does one test for this? They seem to be firing OK at idle and up (slowly) through the revs. Quoting charlie_pank: Air/Vacuum system leak?Pretty sure this isn't the case as there's nothing really downstream of the throttles with the DTH bodies. Can't see / hear anything, but I guess [below] will give an indication Quoting charlie_pank: Do you have a wideband lambda probe? Are you able to see what happens to the mixture as you blip?Alas no; this does seem like a really useful thing to do though. Would the ones you commonly find at MOT places be fast enough to be of use? [Edited (as usual) for spelling and/or grammar. (starting to think I should make this my signature, as I can't seem to spot errors when proof-reading pre post, which then become glaring once I've hit the button ❗] Edited by - _Benedict_ on 4 Jun 2012 16:18:21

Now I've got the car back together etc, two related(?) problems have arisen. I know for a fact that the first one wasn't an issue when I collected the car and I'm as sure as I can be the second one wasn't. Between picking it up and now, I've replaced the guages and done various physical / aesthetic mods, but haven't done/moved anything related to the engine - except replaced the oil / filter. Something however seems to have changed. Spec: DVA built 1800K block/head. QED (Jenvey) DTH TBs DTA ECU mapped by Steve Greenald. Firstly, it now won't start without a small prod on the throttle. It used to. Secondly, and the biggest new problem is that it hesitates/stutters/splutters, often quite badly, when the throttle is blipped / opened quickly. Once started, it idles steadily at about 1k rpm and will rev nicely if you open the throttle slowly. If you drive it up the road, it pulls without stutter from all revs and will rev 6k rpm (and probably all the way to the red line), you just can't blip the throttle from low revs (not sure about medium revs) I've downloaded / installed the DTA software onto my laptop and can't see anything wrong in the ECU: The TPS (my original suspect) is fine; it reads 0% on the idle endstop and 100% open on the WOT endstop (and seems to move as it should between the 2) The air and water temp sensors are showing the correct temperatures. There has never been a MAP sensor fitted, and no values / adjustments for it are in any of the maps / settings All the map data seems intact and sensible. I can't see how any of it would have changed, and the values that are currently in for startup, low-temp and "throttle-pump" enrichment all seem sensible from what I've read. As these haven't needed to be changed for years, I can't see how they'd now suddenly be wrong. The TBs seem to be balanced OK. I haven't got access to anything to quantitivelymeasure the mass flow into each barrell, but I have one of the old gauges that enables like-for-like comparison to be made between cylinders. (I've achieved great results with this in the past on webber / dellorto and motorcycle carburettors so I'm confident in the method / results). Each cylinder moves the gauge by the same amount. I've even changed the spark plugs (they did look a little black, but no worse than my previous VHPD'd SLR which ran beautifully). My only next thought is the fuel pressure regulator; in the space of 3 months inactivity, could this possibly be failing in a manner such that the pressure behind the injectors is too high / low and so altering the amount of fuel going in on an injector pulse. But if it was then surely it wouldn't pull cleanly through the revs 🤔 I'd really like to get it sorted for when the sun comes out again (although admittedly that could be next May ❗ ) so any experiences or suggestions of what to try next would be gratefully received. Cheers, Ben Edited for pedantic accuracy and punt,tu,ation. Edited by - _Benedict_ on 3 Jun 2012 20:58:43

Another for the Pela ones. I bought one recently as I've no drain plug in my DS tank and I must say I was dead impressed at how well it worked. A word of caution for would-be purchasers though; don't be fobbed off into being supplied an "equivalent" one/brand, which basically isn't. The first place I ordered mine from (I bought the 6L spherical(ish) container one) decided to send me the cheaper generic/copy version. They're around with lots of different brandnames printed on the front, "Silverline" I think is one of them. I sent it back as I'd ordered the Pela one and I'm so glad I did as the quality difference was marked. The pump on the cheaper one was very flimsy and poorly/cheaply made, the rubber tube was not very flexible/positionable and it was difficult to create a decent vacuum. The Pela one however was much better quality, you can create a great vacuum, the hose is good quality, and comes with a very thin last few feet (it looks like the outer from a bike's brake cable) so it'll easily push down a dipstick hole. It was certainly a breeze when I gave it the "sucky-sucky" on my old oil 😬 Cheers, Ben

That's brilliant, thanks chaps. No huge rush; I'll BM you my mobile number, so feel free to text / call as and when it's convenient and you're heading in this direction. Cheers, Ben 😬

As per this thread, I don't suppose anyone could help with moving a (large) catalogue set from Kent Sussex to the Leicestershire area? Would be much appreciated - and an Ntl donation waiting as well Ben

Quoting Ian B: I've got a pristine set of October 2009 ones you can have. In Kent or Sussex though so would need posting (may be cheaper by courier?). Thanks Ian they should keep me going for a while! It's probably worth a request in the "gonads" forum first, in case anyone is coming this way (I'll do that in a sec). Failing that, I can book/pay for a parcelforce collection / delivery online (with some details from yourself). Cheers, Ben