richy

Me again, Dave. Fish Hill is my local play area 

Just back from the MOT. A grand total of 200 miles in the last 12 months. Not been trying hard enough.

It was me Dave. 

You've mentioned checking for low fluid level - you need it to be very full to prevent the light from coming on at all.

Richy

My boot cover looks OK after changing from standard to trackday roll bar. Haven't bothered renewing it.

Richy

Of course, why did I forget that trick? Thanks Ian, that's cured it!

Richy

My flasher relay buzzes when I reconnect the battery after a period of lay-up. Now, I understand this may be due to low voltage, failing relay, or something else, and a new flasher may fix the buzzing. But does this buzzing as I reconnect the battery mean that the relay is permanently energised whenever the car is switched off and immobilised? Is this another source of battery drain in addition to the immobiliser? The car is a Sigma 125.

Richy

Yes, I've had to 'skim' them in the past. Put coarse emery cloth on a flat surface and rub the pad over it. There'll be someone out there who knows of a reason not to do this, but it worked for me.

What is the oil level in it? Sometimes people add 'a bit more'. It will also likely 'breathe' a bit more on a trackday. You could try fitting a small catch pot to the breather tube to check it isn't the oil seals leaking.

I did this last year. You should be able to remove the connector from the old headlights and fit to the new wires after threading them through the headlamp bracket. Use a very small screwdriver to unlock each pin (press down the tab) inside the connector.

I always drive onto some planks of wood 1" thickness is enough for me and my cheap jack, use the 'A' of the A-frame as those mentioned above.

My local garage supplies Banner batteries. I phoned them one morning, it was not in stock but they had it delivered within 3 hours. They supplied me with a 530-034-030. Same physical size as the original 530-034-024, but 300A cranking instead of 240A. Carries a Banner UK part number 896. For future info they are: Station Rd Garage, Chipping Campden.

Open Gear & Wire Rope grease - eg: Chevron Texclad 2. Seriously sticky stuff. 

svc - very helpful when I changed mine earlier this year. Standard brackets though.

Quote anthonym 'What at has lead me down this path has been the experience of nylocs losing their grip after 14 years in situ. Any alternative that does not come loose after some years is my interest ' Unquote

Rust 

If members wish to divulge information from their past experiences which may help others, then that is their decision whether they wish to use private blatmail, or post it in a thread. The info doesn't suddenly become club property just because it is posted in the thread. Unless I've missed something in the T&C's. TechTalk should remain public and the individual members should decide whether they want public access or not.

Richy

Wasn't me. Twas mrs richy on her way home. Now says she was followed by a Seven and apologises for holding you up :-)

I said she should have posted the spotted thread first :-)

They both look good, though I don't like the winder on the C10.

I'd be up for a C3 Quartz. No.6 please

Not me.

Must be the other one. 😬

So, after giving Garth's ECU a good test, I decided to get mine repaired. Tested it on the car and so I now have a spare. Let's hope I don't need it!

Thanks for the help.

There was a problem with the session organisation 2 years ago. Partial refunds were paid out. May be a cause for under subscription.

Richy

P777 *** Passed me down Sheep St. 2up.

Hope you enjoyed the sunshine.

Can you get a hydraulic jack underneath the socket extensions to apply upward pressure? And a large person inside the car so you can apply extra force 😬

Richy