Andy Watson

...a tentative yes.

Excellent stuff. My 'click' comes and goes but now I have the tools to tackle it. Many thanks.

I've recently fitted a set of 14" Nankangs. Early days, but no dramas. Not been in the wet yet, I must admit...

....just as an aside, does anyone have any thoughts/experience of Nankang Sportnex NS-2Rs? They seem to do a 185/60 R14.....

Could be completely irrelevant as my engine is K-series, but a while ago I had a similar problem. Turned out that the jubilee clip holding the air filter on was a little tight distorting the orifice where the throttle butterfly sits not allowing it to close properly. Slacking it off a bit solved the problem.

....sounds like a good idea, if knackering the MC seals is a possibility..no matter how remote.

Ah, I see. Any idea what the master cylinder is from? Sierra?

Crazy I know, but as it was a lovely day, I though I'd spend the afternoon in the garage changing the brake fluid. I'd flushed to two corners but on working on the off-side rear, the brake pedal was no longer pumping through fluid. Even on tightening the bleed nipple, the brake pedal still went straight to the floor. No fluid leaks in evidence so I guess there's a problem in the master cylinder. It's a year 2000 car, so should I just go for a new cylinder rather than renew the internals? Andy

...and mine arrived not 10 minutes ago.....extremely yellow Likewise, thanks

...job done yesterday. Many thanks Bo

YHBM ....I hope

....sorry I've been quiet Bo; been out of town for a bit. Yep, I'm still interested in a set for 1600k, wet sump and heater.....just need to think of a colour. When would you need to know this by?

Sounds good. 1.6k with wet sump and heater. After 12 years, I think I ought to replace the original set......

Neil, I've had the same problem for years. No idea what the source is.....I'd love to find out though.

Two very happy chappies at Donington services at around lunchtime in a shiny orange Superlight. I hope you managed to stay dry all the way to Manchester - good on yer!

Only just picked up this thread. I like the idea of a battery cut-off out of sight under the dash.

Looks like the IACV is stuck. Anyone know a good source for a new one? I suspect Caterham may be a bit pricy.

Steve, that's interesting. From what you say it sounds as if the plunger can move quite freely. I got the impression that it moves very slowly. Maybe it does need a good clean. I'll investigate tomorrow, thanks.

Thanks for all the replies. I think the throttle is closing ok. I have had the air filter off (I have the plastic plenum rather than throttle bodies) and can see that it's closed. I noticed quite a while ago that it wasn't shutting properly owing to the plastic being slightly oval. Squeezing the plastic at the appropriate place allows it to shut. I found that tightening the jubilee clip at the right point pulled the plastic back allowing the throttle to close properly. But I don't think that this is the same problem. The revs are much higher than before anyway.

Jon, yes I did. But now I can;t recall whether I switched off the ignition after depressing the accelerator 5 times. MAybe this will make a difference I'll try again, Thanks. Boz, yes the revs always seemed to fall slowly. But now they don't seem to drop much at all.

I'm sure that this topic has been done before, but I'd appreciate some thoughts on a problem that has developed with my 1.6k. The car's been laid up for most of the winter (probably the first mistake), but yesterday I thought it was time for a short blat. After charging the battery and reconnecting, the engine started ok first time. Reversing out of the garage, no problem, and on to the road. After setting off I was immediately aware that the engine revs weren't falling on changing down, maybe only down to about 2.5k. I got the car back and first of all checked the throttle cable. I was suspicious that it may be sticking as the last time the car was out, the engine seemed to take a while for the revs to drop after changing gear and such. The cable was ok and a sprayed the pedal mount with WD40 to be on the safe side. I started the car and immediately the revs shot up to about 2.5-3k. Engine off. Next, out came the IACV. I've read that this can cause problems. With the IACV out I switched on the ignition and the plunger slowly moved out of the valve - too much actually as it left the vale completely. This was a bu**er to get back in and now I think that I may be faulty - if it wasn't before. When I switched on the ignition and then I noticed that the IACV chatters, not only as the ignition is switched on but when it's swtched off as well!I started the engine and again, ~3k revs. So, now I'm not sure what to check next. Any ideas would be appreciated. Have I knackered the IACV anyway? Andy

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll try resetting the ecu tonight.

I have a problem with my standard 1.6k. I am finding that the engine is quite often reluctant to return to idle when I lift off the throttle. It usually takes a blip of the throttle to quieten the engine down. The throttle returns to the stops (with a little slack in the cable) ok, and the throttle plate isn't restricted by an over-tight air filter. I don't think it's a problem with the idle air adjustment valve as I get the same problem with it disconnected. I have found, however, if I press the throttle cable quadrant (is that the correct term?) against the return stops, the revs drop to idle, even though there is no preceptable movement in the throttle itself. Is it a problem with the throttle position sensor? Andy

I lift the back by placing the jack under where the dedion tube is fastened to the A-frame. I think I read about this in the Caterham owners handbook. At the front, I either use the towing eye or where the two cross members cross each other. I've had no problems - yet! Andy

Thanks for the reassurance. I was worried that I had an alignment problem in the rear suspension. Anyway, an appropriate sized tap sorted out the threads in the tube and everything is back together now.