murph7355

I've just noticed I obviously never read your original post properly! If it cranks and cranks then it's not much like mine at all, which wouldn't turn the engine over at all when hot! So ignore everything I posted!! Will be interesting to see if the std. Caterham battery fixes the problem...I'm sure there must be a Red Top that gives similar performance but with lighter weight (if the problem is cured). C7 AJM

Chris - you evidently don't work in IT then? And where's the fun in that? And aren't you the one just going through a "fixing" session on your engine? smile.gif It'll be interesting to see what Graham finds... C7 AJM

Hmmm. Mine has reported as low as 7.4V very briefly whilst cranking (and the battery should be A1). I wonder wether the Stack is reporting the voltage correctly (when on a run it reads anywhere between 13.5V and 14.1V)? C7 AJM

What batteries are Caterham fitting to the R500 as standard? I'd be very surprised if the Hawker gave less juice than the usual Caterham batteries... C7 AJM

I'm fairly certain my Stack dash uses a separate sensor to the ECU. The only thing that made me note the map is that I think Graham had some map jiggery pokery done to get him through the SVA. So I suppose it's possible something wasn't reset right. But you'd expect this to spot on for "factory designed" cars. The point noted about waiting an hour or so makes me think that the temperature is causing grief here (as mine did the same). A look at the starter motor and all it's connections would be a good (cheap wink.gif) place to start. Of course if it only truly happens when you stall it (i.e. turning it off normally when hot sees it firing up instantly straight after) I have no idea what might be wrong! I'm fairly certain the MBE doesn't run MS Windows, but if this is what's happening it sounds like an odd computer glitch. Incidentally, mine's not 100% cured still! I suspect the final bit of tweaking needed is to the map which I'm aiming to get done v.soon. But hot starting hasn't caused me enough grief recently (asking for trouble) to make me push it up the list of "todos". By the way, I couldn't find a cranking advance setting in the MBE software. Doesn't mean it's not there, probably more likely that I'm just hopeless at looking for it... C7 AJM

Graham I suffered this for a while (not an R500 but a K with 11.1:1 cr) but it's much improved now. Question - is the car hot when you've stalled it (e.g. 85degC+, definitely >90degC??). First thing we tried was to upgrade the battery but it didn't really help. I fitted a Red Top 700 which had twice the cranking power of the original battery but no luck. Fortunately this a lovely bit of kit anyway so I wasn't too upset at buying it! What did fix it was to take the starter motor off and "rebuild" it (some of the wires were loose which only looked to be a problem when it was hot). As yours is new I wouldn't have thought this would be it, but you never know. So I'd be inclined to double check all electrical connections first. Also, I believe the R500s are meant to come with a geared starter motor? Do you have the right spec one? Maybe check out the r500owners site as I believe they have a list of common issues (such as they are)? C7 AJM PS One other possible is "kick back" if the map isn't set right (ignition advance at idle I think), but as it's an R500 I would seriously doubt that this is the root cause... Edited by - Andy Murphy on 2 Apr 2001 13:17:22

Wouldn't it be much easier, more convenient and possibly cheaper to have 10,000 pairs of ear plugs posted to nearby residents and do away with the noise limits teeth.gif My car sounds much nicer than lawnmowers, jet aircraft and the like so I can't see why the local councils/residents moan so much. I've given up any hope of using circuits with noise limits. I've never tested the car but I *know* it wouldn't even get close to 98dB. And I don't think I want it to either! C7 AJM Edited by - Andy Murphy on 30 Mar 2001 13:57:40

Mine also takes ages to fill. Which means I have to drive faster when I leave the petrol station to catch up. Which means I use more fuel. Which means...oh well. I thought that Caterham had recently done a pukka aero filler for Rover (fi?) equipped cars? I was looking at getting one of these fitted to my car in the hope that a new filler assembly might ease the filling woes (as well as the cap bit looking nice). I believe they're iro 75GBP for the cap and filler etc. I'm sure I heard that some people carry a smallish length of rubber hose that they (presumably) fit to the petrol pump nozzle to get the fuel going straight down the filler (rather than having to slosh around the initial bend). The intention being that filling then becomes easy and fast. Then again, I could be talking a*se again. C7 AJM

Could you post the basics on here? Were the cars with screen or not? I've so far not had chance to play with mine properly so it'd be good to have numbers to start with. I can then get the data download stuff working and spend even more time on car related stuff. That'll cheer HID up smile.gif. C7 AJM

Maybe your odo's on its way out? Isn't a std. Caterham tank 8 gallons (36 litres?). I think I average about 200 miles out of a tankful (K series car), so your latest figures are probably ball park (I'd think it safe to assume that the gauge may not be reading accurately enough to predict 260 miles out of the current tank). But, style of driving is paramount. If I'm fairly easy with the right foot 200 miles is easy. If I'm really heavy on it I'd struggle a fair bit, and if you do 100+ (autobahns and race tracks only of course wink.gif) the fuel consumption plummets (or should that be rockets?). C7 AJM PS Just got the calculator out and 120 miles from 25 litres is about 21-22mpg or so. 200 miles from 34 litres (as I try not to run it to absolute zero but sometimes it gets close!) is around 26-27mpg. The difference is almost certainly driving style/conditions I would have thought. From a std. K (mine used to be a 1400KSS) 30mpg+ is pretty easy if you're easy on the throttle when cruising. Mind you, they're not really built with economy in mind... Edited by - Andy Murphy on 29 Mar 2001 11:24:18 Edited by - Andy Murphy on 29 Mar 2001 11:25:47

I use 16-18 (usually 16 when cold) also and it works well (185s front, 205s rear, 13" wheels, A021Rs). C7 AJM

Andy C - I may take you up on that offer at some point. Not having seats isn't really a problem at the minute. As noted, I fit very snugly in the basic tub! But when all my weight comes of (yeah right) I may need something more suitable smile.gif. C7 AJM

You could get the plump bench seat base for your wife's side? I've done this in my car and it's received good feedback (it's a good inch or two thicker than the thin bench base)! I'm a bit taller than you (6'4") but I'm 99.99% sure that *any* type of seat would leave me too far forward and, more importantly, too high up. I'm toying with the idea of taking the bench out totally and creating some seats on the floor of the car with the seat inserts you can get from the likes of Sparco, plus one of their inflatable lumbar supports. Another idea is the Indy seat kit, but this seems a bit pricey for something that may not help me out either (there's pretty much zero free space around my tub o lard frame and the car!). C7 AJM

Alex - I have an off the shelf one and it fits in the race carbon dash (less switches) no problems. I think the same goes for the R500 system (as I believe it's the same basic Road Dash unit). The Stack system is superb, but my first one had to go back as the shift light function didn't work (despite being paid for and theoretically fitted). It's also showing odd readings on oil pressure now (have to check the sender first but it could be the dash). Consider rigging a couple of the buttons up to the steering wheel. Can be handy when flicking through the information layers on the dash without taking your hands off the wheel... As an aside on mirrors, I've just fitted a pair of Racetech convex ones and they're perfectly acceptable in all respects (I know some people have had hassles with them). And are a fair bit cheaper than SPA ones... C7 AJM

I believe there was someone advertising some clip on (to the door hinges) types in LF magazine... But I've got a pair of Racetech mirrors. Despite the reservations of others, the quality isn't that bad (not perfect, but not bad) and mine don't vibrate in the slightest (they're much, much better than the std. door mirrors and solid as a rock). To fit these (or the SPA ones) you'd need to drill the windscreen stanchion (Racetech ones only need one hole, I think SPA need two). With the Racetech ones I also found I needed to space them with washers so that the door cleared the mirror stem properly when using the doors. This doesn't look half as nasty as I thought it would, and actually looks pretty much like it should be like that! I bought the convex types from: http://www.raceparts.co.uk/racetech/index.htm The two advanatges are that the lenses are glass (not plastic) and you get a fantastic field of view. The down side is that the view is a bit odd and takes a bit of getting used to. They cost about 55GBP for 2 mirrors incl. VAT and delivery...and I think they look the nuts. Note that you have to take care getting out of the car with fixed mirrors like this - the doors now only open 90deg. But you get used to it. C7 AJM

True. I set mine a hundred revs or so short of the limiter which gives me just enough time to get the next gear as the limiter's about to come in. I can adjust this to suit as dementia sets in etc. (i.e. I'll set it 1k revs before the limit) which is one (big) advantage of aftermarket shift lights (that they're adjustable, not that they can account for my dementia)... C7 AJM

Anyone got one of these they don't want? C7 AJM

Couldn't you just take the shift light you have and mount it in a tube on top of the scuttle? If you wanted something brighter you could even buy a brighter bulb? Would certainly be the cheapest option (the hole in the dash could be used for another light, perhaps low oil pressure or something?). I've got mine mounted this way (here) and it works really well (though mine's attached to a Stack dash - could be another option smile.gif. After trading in your old instruments etc. etc. it gets easier to justify to yourself! - I don't see why it wouldn't work with the std. item). C7 AJM

I've got one of those too. I still think that the bigger problem with k-series cars, and definitely on the road, is getting the oil up to temperature rather than cooling it significantly. As noted, for track days I've yet to test the whole set up so can't really comment, but I'll be surprised if the system can't cope. Incidently, assuming fitting a more traditional oil cooler involves putting it in front (or behind) the water radiator, isn't the performance of one of them being compromised there too? C7 AJM

Well I figure it's about time I pioneered something after blagging from the good work done by Mr Andrews, PC, MikeB etc. Can I have volunteers for a shoulder to cry on if it doesn't work out smile.gif Coming clean, however, I'm told that these have been run on a couple of race cars to good effect. Also I have the thicker ali' race rad' installed which should help (forgot to mention that before - sorry). With a bit of luck I'll be doing the Le Sept thing so should get 3 track days in close succession in summer, plus a fair bit of fast road mileage. Should give it a good work out. C7 AJM

Hmmmm. Yoko seem to have 6" or 6.5" as the "permitted" rim widths for 205s... I wonder what impact putting them on wider rims will have to insurers (mine are on 7"s). This rim width seems narrow to me (ed. after : Avons equiv. CR500 has a recommended width of 8"!), and would indicate that you'd need something like 245s on an 8.5" rim. I'd say that this is way too big for the back of a Caterham, if you could buy tyres that wide for 13" rims (8.5" ACBs are only about 215s ed. after : according to Avon's site this is wrong! 8" ACB10s are equivalent to 245s...). None of which helps you very much! 205 32Rs are iro 60-70 a corner, or about 2/3s the price of the CR500s. 21Rs are about 10 quid cheaper I think. For something that runs out so quickly (3k-7k miles) I'm prepared to compromise a bit on outright grip (it'd be interesting to see comparative times round a lap of a circuit) to save a fortune in new tyres! C7 AJM Edited by - Andy Murphy on 19 Mar 2001 17:29:31

The only other usual suspects are Yoko 021Rs (possibly the best compromise road tyre available for the 7 with superb wet weather ability, very good dry ability and good wear rate) or 032Rs (alleged to be not as good in the wet by some - I've yet to try them - better in the dry but not as good wear wise). Both of these are availble in 205/13 or wider (but I'd be inclined not to go any wider). C7 AJM

Another option may be an oil/water heat exchanger... Advantages are: - gets the oil up to "working" temp. (70-80degC) quicker than without - prevents it getting too hot (>> 100degC) - can be fitted pretty much *anywhere* in the engine bay - more resistant to damage Disadvantage is that I think it's a bit heavier than a trad oil cooler. And may be a bit more pricey. I've yet to go on track with mine, or use it in the heat (yeah right) of summer, so can't conclusively comment on its performance. But so far it looks fine. For typical day to day use though I believe Keith is spot on (i.e. that a K with a trad oil cooler [and presumably no thermostat] will run with its oil too cool most of the time).

Caterham. They're 1-2 quid each I think so not too bad. You may have trouble getting your old ones off. Be very careful and don't tug at the exhaust guard too much. The guides for the clips on the guard can tear quite easily (use a Dremel or something to cut through them carefully if they're completely seized). You'll also want to slot all three new clips in prior to offering the guard up to the exhaust.

My money's on the flasher unit. I used to find my old one on the floor of the car (where it won't work) every now and then for no good reason, and operating the hazards would stop the indicators working every now and then. New unit sorted both problems out. Reminds me of the joke about the Irishman testing his mates indicators. Asked to check if they're working he goes to the front of the car. Seamus turns the indicators on and Paddy tells him "they are, they aren't, they are, they aren't...". C7 AJM