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Piers300

Area Representative
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Posts posted by Piers300

  1. I have had two sevens, one for 25 years and the present one for 6 years. I am also very deaf and have worn hearing aids for 25 years plus. I wear ear plugs for every journey to protect what I have left, which is not much. Yes the 7 makes lovely noises, but it isn't just the exhaust, it is the induction and wind noise. On long journeys, it will irreparably damage your hearing, so please ensure you don't end up with hearing loss and protect your hearing.

     

    Piers

  2. I needed to get the car ready for its MOT on Monday, so it started and I reversed it out of the garage. A quick wash and wipe and I was ready to check everything and it would not start. So, I changed the distributor cap, then the rotor and all HT leads. Still it would not start, so I decided to change the coil. After a bit of access trouble, the new coil was in with the old HT lead - nothing - dead. 

    I then fitted an older HT lead from the coil and it started first try.

    I am still not sure I have really cracked it but time will tell

     

    Piers

     

     

     

    !

  3. John

    When I looked at the rotor arm last year, it was very firmly on the shaft and I gave up trying to get if off. It was replaced by the garage. So I assumed that it was a tolerance fit, but based on your information it may be held in place with a retaining scew. Can you advise exactly what I am looking for and the solution please.

    Many thanks

     

    Piers

  4. Last year at the 2015 Isle of Wight Blat, the car failed to start on Sunday morning. It would just crank strongly (battery is good) but there was no spark and it did not fire once. There were no starting issues before or on the way there. After a great deal of assistance from many people (Thank you all – you know who you are) and late in the afternoon, Mick Smith extended the carbon rod on the spring in the distributor cap, so it made better contact with the rotor arm. (Thank you Mick). The car immediately started at the first turn of the key and ran fine and we returned home with no issues.  The car was serviced soon after and a new rotor arm, distributor cap, spark plugs and HT leads were fitted. I had no more problems in 2015 when blatting locally.

    The car often takes time to start from cold after a couple of weeks of non-use. No throttle is used when cranking. It will start eventually and settle down to a tick over, on I assume an auto choke. It seems to run at 1100 rpm and as it warms the speed drops to just below 1000 rpm. When hot, the engine normally starts immediately.

    This year, the failing to start returned at the 2016 IoW Blat. The first time, fiddling with the HT centre lead on the distributor cap, enabled the car to start on the first turn of the key. The second time, giving the spring a pull in the HT cap caused it to start. The third and fourth time, repeating the spring pulling exercise caused it to start immediately.  It did start OK, so we could get on and off the ferry, which was the real concern. Later, when the clutch cable broke on the A249, it also started with no problems.

    The only thing I have not changed is the coil, nor have I checked for clean contacts on the power supply connector to the coil etc. It seems odd that I have not had any issues locally and it cannot be that the car has an aversion to the IoW. Any suggestions on this please.

     

    Piers

  5. Phil - when this happened to my car, it took quite a few outings before the orange light went out. I don't think you will clear it just by running the car in the drive for 10 minutes or so. You need to go for some good blats and get the engine hot. Mine also glowed dimly for some time and like you, I was concerned. However, it did sort itself out in the end.

    I really should add that the rain I drove through was of biblical proportions after I left Brands Hatch, which was 3 years ago. I was down to 30/40 MPH in the slow lane on the M26/M20, being overtaken by lorries - very very scary. The only time I have had the roof up in my car.  The electrics got absolutely soaked.

    Piers

  6. Just found the photos and the car is registration number B444JTF.

    The engine has a light blue cam cover. Either that or may be just alloy, as difficult to tell.

    It looks like it is on it's first outing.

    It also has Revolution alloy wheels.

     

    Piers

     

     

     

     

  7.  Somewhere I have a photo of a BDR, which was red/alli, at a Goodwood meeting in 1984. I was there to chose a colour, as I had A Super Sprint on order, which was eventually delivered after, I think a 16/18 month wait. Those were the days.

    This BDR was very new and could have only just been delivered and it had cycle wings. i remember it well as I had never seen them before on  a new Caterham. I will try and find the photos later today. I don't recall if Guy was at that meeting and it may have been just before he started at Caterham.

     

    Piers

    Was C225 RPM - Midnight Blue Super Sprint - now in Belgium

  8. I have to agree with David about EB's comment. I have been a club member for 30 years. I was part of the management team and also an AR for both Suffolk and Kent and I have no idea who EB is or where he is from.

    EB has no real knowledge of the club history, otherwise he would know who Barry is and what he has done for the club.

    However EB could live in Europe and may not attended any of our old International meetings in the 80's and 90's so I may be being at bit harsh. Most club members from the old days knew who Barry was and especially once the club web site was initiated,as he was the moderator, designer etc.etc.

    The rebuilding of his car by the club is very well deserved in my opinion.

    Piers

     

  9. Only  3 miles from home, the clutch cable broke (R300K) just before exiting the very busy A2 this afternoon. I managed to coast into the pull off - just, as it needed a push to get right off the road. The cable and crimp failed at the clutch end and I was lucky and had a spare in the car. When I tried to remove the crimp from the clutch mechanism, it was held in place by some clear rubbery substance, put there to hold it in place when the cable broke, rather than falling into the housing. So good job done.. Would it be silica gel ? 

    Is this normal practice on the K series engine and what is the material used, as I need to get some.

    Thanks

     

    Piers

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