Piers300

Regin - Thank you very much for the PDF on the connections for the multi pin connector - just what I needed.

YHM and thank you.

Piers

Does anyone have a spare unit for sale in full working order. Software version is: 967BC474

In addition, I am looking for the wiring harness connection details, so I can check the wiring.  (I now have the wiring diagram)

Piers

Whoops - just seen it was 2009

Is the MBE 72908 still available, if so I would like it please.

Piers

I am looking to buy one, so if you have one for sale, please let me know.

​Thanks

Piers

I also have an R300 K, but don't do track days. I fitted four new CR500's in October 2010 and have done around 7000 miles since. There is plenty of tread left. This means I don't drive it hard enough. However, wheel bearing wear may be an issue. My car is in for a service and they found a very loose front wheel bearing. Both front wheel bearings were replaced by Caterham a few years ago and have since been adjusted. Maybe the tracking needs checking. 

I have just tried to checked to see if the pump is getting 12 V when cranking. Due to the pin size on the connector, it is difficult to do it by myself with the meter I have.  I will get someone to crank it while I measure later this evening.

I also did some tests on the Toad, by taking the dongle off the key ring and there is a definite click and the LED goes out when the dongle is put near the loop, so it looks like the Toad is working.

This leaves the fuel pump. How easy is it to change the pump (R 300K  2004). It has to be tank out, as space is very limited. I assume the pump comes with a new gasket etc.

Thanks Jonathan for advice - I am getting there slowly.

Piers

I don't have a spark plug tool to remove a spark plug on the K series, so testing for a spark was not easy. Today I borrowed a plug and low and behold, I have a spark. So it must be no fuel getting to the engine, which could be the Toad immobiliser or the fuel pump.

So I am going to check the connection at the fuel pump next.  Being very deaf (hearing aids worn all the time) I am finding it difficult to hear if the pump is working.

What are the next steps ?

Thanks in advance

Piers

A dark blue JPE on display at Deal and another 1600 GT. which  was local, parked further away.  I spoke to the JPE guy who said he used to own Vegantune.

Piers

Charged the battery with a large 10  amp unit and it still will not start.

it cranks really well but obviously has no spark, so something is stopping it or there is  a bad connection.

Piers

When I went away on holiday I put the keys away. I have two sets and when I came back I picked up the master key that has the tag. When I turn the key, the LED flashed quickly a number of times and the went out. Have I done something stupid to the Toad system , hence the car not starting. The fact this has been an on going saga for two years makes me think not, but I am looking into all possible reasons why it won't start

Piers

The level on two of the cells was a little bit low so I have topped up and are now charging the battery.

Piers

It is a Banner 30 Ah.  Part number 530 o34  024.  Standard battery for the K series I think.

Piers

Just checked and cranking voltage is 10 volts. Does this signify that one cell has failed ?

Piers

I checked the at rest voltage and it was 12.5 V on the battery. I did not do the cranking voltage and will look at that tomorrow. The battery is about six years old but is connected to a conditioner all the time in the garage and it cranks well.

I tried to measure the voltage at the connector having removed it from the coil and the pins are very small and on your own, not easy to do. It did look like there was 2 Volts there, but I was expecting 12 V at the male connector that connects into the coil. I'll try this again tomorrow with some help.

I think the immobilizer LED's are not flashing as they should and there may be a problem there.

This issue was intermittent, but now it is full on !.

Thanks for help

Piers

I have a 2004 R300 with the factory fitted immobilizer. It is called a "Toad".  I have been having intermittent starting issues for quite some time and this afternoon, it will not start. (see separate R300 Starting issues).

It cranks well but it does not fire, so I replaced (all new) the rotor arm, cap and main HT lead and still dead. I then thought I would check to see if the coil is getting 12 volts when cranking and it looks like it is not, so next I looked at the immobilizer.

When turned off, the red led flashes slowly. When you turn the key, the red led flashes quickly and goes out. The gear change led's also flash. The small manual that came with the car says the red led should light when cranking but it does not and this may be preventing the coil getting the 12 Volts.  You also have to waggle the dongle on the key, but this still does nothing. I have looked and there is a loop around the key assembly.

Could someone advise what I should be seeing. It is very frustrating as this has been going on since the IoW Blat of 2015 and it still keeps happening.

I will give it one more try and then it will have to go to a professional. 

Thanks

Piers

Thank you Lee. This saga has been going on since the 2015 Isle of Wight Blat and I will do as you say over the weekend. There is a post I put on on Technical about poor starting on my R300.

Thanks

Piers

Would the HT lead being near the crankshaft sensor cause the engine to not start or fire on any cylinder ?

Because I have a problem with my R300K sometimes it just won't start. If you mess with the HT leads, it will sometimes start

Piers

I went to start the 7 today and once again, it would not start. It cranks really well, so it is not the battery, as it is on a conditioner.

Previously, I have changed the Distributor cap, new rotor arm, new HT leads and a put a nearly new coil in.

I had the car serviced by a local guy last year, who works on 7's for Kent Sports Cars and says he has done so for years. He balanced to Throttle bodies and did a good job. I just wonder if he used cheap Chinese HT leads.

I eventually put in a spare HT lead from the coil to the distributor and it started first turn of the key, so there is something odd going on. I want to buy a set of genuine O.E MG HT leads from someone like Rimmer or Redline (preferred supplier).

Can anyone confirm the MG part number for the complete HT lead set for an R300K of 2004 vintage.

I have found on the Rimmer site: GHT9020 and they look right, but are they genuine ?

Thanks in advance

Piers

Roger

Tony Weale's book on page 217 says Champion C6 3YC, but this is for the 175 bhp engine.

Piers

Roger one other thing is that you will recall his is 235 Bhp

Roger

My 2009 NGK spark plug book says: Caterham HPC 16 Valve is either NGK BCPR7E (recomended) or BCPR7ES gapped at 0.7

regards

Piers

Hi Roger

Crispin gave me the spark plug box he uses and it has the following part number: VSP 144. 90357582

it also has 024223559102V

Crispin sends his best regards to you and Barbara, as do I.

I will also look in my Tony Weal book.

regards

Piers

Roger. I am at Crispin's tomorrow and will find out what his HPC has fitted.

Piers

I have a R300 K on throttle bodies and it passed its MOT on Monday. I found that the secret to passing the emissions test was to do it with a HOT engine. If the engine cools while the car is being checked over and that can take 15/20 minutes, then the emissions were bad. A quick thrash round the block or do the emissions on arrival sorted it. It works for me and would be worth a try.

Piers