Paul McKenzie

I had this on my VX 2.0L and thought it was the gasket. Chris, how much did they charge for the rebuild?

VC, What sizes and make of tyres are you using on these rims? Thanks

Remove the pedal box cover, then move the pedals as described in the build manual - it's easy, and think how pleased you'll be.

No, they don't

Jim Jeffrey (01925 266050) in Warrington is advertising Goodyear F1's in 215/40/16 at 90.47, Bridgestone SO2PP in 205/50/16 at 121.02

Tim, I don't like the sound of this! Looks like you're getting worried about keeping up after my Winter SPC gearbox upgrade. I hope you're not going to force me to spend even more money-remember it took me 6 months to persuade Kath the new gearbox was a better investment than a conservatory. Paul

Steve, Probably about 3000 - I had the head replaced just inside the warranty time. If you stick your finger inside the expansion tank and find the inside is coated with oil emulsion, then that is the problem - don't worry though about damaging the rest of the engine as fortunately the fluids only move one way (up to acertain point I imagine, since the problem becomes progressively worse)i.e. oil into coolant-the problem occurs due to a very thin web separating an oilway from the coolant - the web goes porous under high temp./pressure. When I had the problem, Caterham initially said they'd never heard of it, likewise the local Vaux. dealer, but others more in the know like Clive Kenrick and Sebah diagnosed it immediately. Paul

My Vx when new used to turn the coolant brown-cause was, you guessed, a porous head -well-known defect on many 2.0 XE's. Eventually huge aamounts of oil emulsion built up in the cooling system, blocking the system and blowing hoses. Gor a new head fitted under warranty, cleaned the system with a proprietary oil remover and verything now remains blue and crystal clear. If you see oil emulsion in the coolant this is (or once was if you've changed the head)the problem.

Pierre, In practice I don't think anyone does this. I beelieve standard practice is to continue 'til they start sqeaking, then panic, then replace Paul

Andy, I have an unused spare if you're interested-e-mail me with an offer Paul

Alex, Sorry mate! I'm not trying to nick you ad. Any replies to Alex first, please Paul

I also have standard (non-modified) clutch, clutch cover and flywheel assembly for sale - all in vgc - offers?

Does anybody know which Sierra model/Year/engine type the rear brake calipers came from? My rear brakes are binding and rather than pay £95 each for exchange units, I will fettle them myself with a £9 service kit - but I need to know where they're from thanks Paul

They are just 'ordinary' washers. Like you I just removed the clutch and flywheel for lightening/balancing and they are not special - you should check with Caterham though just in case, 'cos I noticed that my flywheel (pot-type) like yours had actually ground itself a small furrow in the bell-housing. My suspicion is that the Cat bell-housing was originally designed for the non-pot type flywheel and then just continued the same when Vauxhall/Opel altered the flywheel design to give better slow-running and emissions control on the fuel injected engine Paul

Don't do it!! The powder coating on the chassis tubes offers very poor protection, also the galvanic cell set up between the ali body and the chassis tubes exacerbates the problem. My car is 5 years old and I've just spent 4 (not so leisurely) weekends compensating for my initial enthusiasm (engine out, petrol tank out) in order to get to grips with the problem. If I had my time over again (and don't we all wish that were the case)I would before the build have all the parts I could properly protected from corrosion - in my opinion nylon coated(Kelcoat in Leek). I would then make sure the chassis tubes were absolutely clean and coat them with waxoyl or similar-whatever you use it doesn't in my opinion make much difference, you simply want an effective physical barrier between the **** and the chassis. In your case, you are not dealing with a new chassis, so try and get it as 'new' as possible i.e. jet wash all the crevices, then, the difficult bit at this time of year, dry it so absolutely no moisture remains, then proceed as above. It's no quick solution, but it's worth doing it right, then hopefully you won't need to do it again. Paul

What was the 'oil/air separator' for - other than the obvious? Thanks Paul

Got it, Thanks Andrew

Not exactly Tech., but since it's almost time to renew the insurance, I've heard there are companies that do a good deal including free track day insurance. Does anybody know who they are-my track days last year cost £50 with Footman James, up from about £35 the year before. Thanks

IMHO forget powder coating which is always a compromise - go to Kelcoat at Leek and get them NYLON coated - excellent finish and many times more resistant than powder coat....also if you have corrosion problems on the wishbones, take a look under the car at the rear chassis tubes and at the A-frame....you could be in for a shock!!! Paul

nO sORRY-JUST HAD MY FIRST GLASS OF WINE pAUL

I had a similar problem with transmission oil leakage from the gearbox joint directly above the gearbox mounting - mine started from nothing and within a month or so could rapidly drain all the oil from the gearbox. The only cure is gearbox out and strip to replace the gasket, or in my case, a good excuse to change the box for the SPC semi-helical jobby.

How do you do that? I've not fitted new pads since the build 5 years ago - at that time the pads were just separated manually and fitted over the disc since there was obviously no pressure in the system. thanks

Noticed that my rear brakes (standard calipers) are binding even with the handbrake cable disconnected - come to think of it they've always been a bit sticky. Anybody know how to solve the problem - presumably something in the caliper needs lubricating/freeing. Also does anybody know how long the rear pads last? Thanks

Don't worry!!! Steve knows what you want - at least I hope so having just picked up today my semi-helical for the VX. He'd cut the required amount(whatever that is) off the input shaft. His knowledge and skill is second-to-none, so I think we're all in for some fun with these 'boxes.

Alex is right - I've used both of these on my VX