Luegonigel
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Everything posted by Luegonigel
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Maybe I should have quantified the weather by quoting a Hsig (significant wave height) for the amount of water on the road.
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hi, I did a quick search of tyre postings and found most to be pretty old, not sure whether that is to do with moving to the new site or not. Is there a way of sorting searched postings by date? The real question is, what is the current view of the best wet/dry tyre? I spoke to Demon Tweeks this morning and they said Toyo T1R. Any other views? I have Sigma 150, as a result of a fence pulling out on me in my old car in the damp, and live in Scotland hence the bias towards the wet performance. I also spent an unhappy Saturday afternoon a couple of weeks ago aqua planing down the side of Loch Ness with my current CR500s......stayed on the black stuff fortunately?
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That is the deed done this morning so we will see how it goes. Expansion tank unbolted, lifted up 6" so now higher than radiator and heater bleed tee. Engine run, no big gulps but level seemed to settle down, left when hot to let air escape for half an hour which it seemed to do. To answer a previous question, the bleed tee on the heater is the highest point. Tee and banjo fittings ordered to re-introduce the line from the radiator, previously removed when changing from plastic to alloy radiator.
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That's the head hit on the nail thanks. The radiator was changed out about three months after I got the car from CC Midlands and one week before going to Picos mountains in Spain, they only had a plastic one in to replace the existing plastic one which leaked, fitted it the day before going......it leaked, went in Audi instead. Alloy one fitted on return, that was June last year, I remember the tee piece becoming redundant but can't remember a bleeding problem. Engine and gearbox out last October to replace leaking gearbox seals, CC paid (good on them), can't remember a bleeding problem then either. It only seems to have happened over the last few months. I'll read up on the other threads but it sounds like there is the solution in there somewhere so thanks again.
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Hi, I had a K series which was a devils own job to bleed the air out after radiator changes etc. I now have a 150 Sigma which seems to have developed a mind of its own with regard to expansion tank level. I have fitted a bleed tee, jacked the car right up at the front (high enough?), checked the bleed tee, full to top and ok, took plug out of radiator, filled it, checked expansion tank somewhere sensible, put cap back on, lowered car, level at max, drove car, level now 20mm above max. when hot, same when cooled down. Conclusion, air still in there somewhere. Any ideas gratefully received.
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Hi again, the axle is De Dion.
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Hi, how many different permutations of diff breather are there? Mine just has a brass stub sticking out vertically which liberally showers drips of oil everywhere, my old car had the same thing but with a hose fastened to it pointing down over. It sprayed less oil randomly all over the place. What is supposed to be there?
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Hi, I bought a box spanner to do it, about 125mm/150mm long, means you don't have to take anything off. Some box spanners go too narrow after the hex and the diameter of the sender won't go far enough in so best to take the new sender along to a tool shop to check. The becomes a 5 minute job....or a bit longer in my case by the time I got it to seal properly. Hope that helps.
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Hi, Blair has bought the throat mikes today. Thanks for the interest to all.
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Thanks to all, I'll keep everyone posted on how the sale goes. Surprising that the units have been discontinued. I don't suppose the internal fault is on the lead which converts from the throat mike to the digital box?
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Hi, two throat mikes for sale, reason for sale is that have changed over to the ear defender type. Throat mike worked great for myself but my wife's neck is very small and hers kept sliding about distorting the sound. Cost £86 each. Accept £50 each plus the carriage. Type SH-045 here
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Seems a bit extreme to sell the car but it's certainly an option. I was thinking of changing the wheel for one of them old Allegro square ones to improve cornering fun!
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I have a Momo steering wheel where the plastic/leather Momo bit which covers bolts etc. keeps coming off. Have tried lots of different self adhesive Velcro pads all to no avail as none will stick to the plastic material. One solution, leave it off Another, tie wrap it on, not too sexy Another.........?
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What is the best advice on checking oil level after fitting one?
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So, the summary was:- - prop shaft seal leaking which was easy to see - gasket between gearbox and bell housing had a bit missing where the selector shaft is - the cover plate on the drivers side of the gearbox held on with two bolts had silicon on it but not all the way around, probably the main leak. Impossible to see or get at under the car in a normal domestic garage. Incredible how close the gearbox is to the chassis when you look with the benefit of a garage ramp. Flywheel removed to check for crankshaft seal leak, no problem. Garage floor now dry for the first time in ages thanks to Dreadnought Garage in Callander. Surprised to see 4 Caterhams in their place at the same time. Very friendly service in there as always. Any news from Nickhi on his problem?
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Thanks for that link, a long standing problem then re the selector shaft leak. Photos very helpful in understanding the problem. Gearbox and engine on way out.
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Has anyone got a photo of the gearbox selector shaft area please
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Hi, did you get sorted? Mine is still proving elusive to find so interested in your result.
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My 150 Sigma with 5 speed box is in Dreadnought garage as we speak for the very same thing. I think I have a leak on the gearbox rear output shaft and a leaking rear crankshaft seal. After an hour and a halfs drive to Dreadnought the leak seems to have blown back from the bell housing/engine joint up the bell housing and along the gearbox. Will revert back by the end of the week hopfully. My car has 15,000 miles on it.
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Hi Stu, how did you find out about the rear seal leak and how did you fix it. I cleaned off the bottom of my engine the other day after finding a small pool on the garage floor, a drip is coming from between the bell housing and the engine. What was the cause of your do you think?
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Hi, saw you just before/after the Cabrach hotel, you were in the midst of 150 bikes from the Moray Motorcycle Club doing a charity run it seems.
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Never made it to the Pico sadly as the new radiator leaked the day before I was due to set off to Spain. Took the Audi TT 3.2 instead, it managed to do the bit admirably, not the same view through the tin top however. New all aluminium radiator now fitted, 500 miles done and it is ok. Now the oil pressure gauge has gone full scale meaning the sensor is goosed presumably? Sounds like I will need to get the car to somewhere near Aberdeen with a rolling road and access to the ECU to get a proper job done. I wouldn't mind getting out and driving the car for a few miles as that is what I hear they are for!!!
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That's the alu radiator fitted, 300 miles done in boilin ot conditions Seems fine, no spray all over the engine bay this time, hopefully it lasts. ☹️ pulled up after a blat with new rad.............oil pressure gauge gone to full scale showing 8 million bar! Looks a bugger to get at the sender with spanner or socket. It is a three wire transducer so presume it has gone open circuit for the gauge to read full scale.
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Picos mountains in Spain absolutely fabulous thanks, I'll do a bit for Low Flying on it, even if it is just to give directions on a route. New alu radiator received from CC today. I notice it doesn't have the extra small pipe on it which connects to the tee piece to the connection on the back of the block and the expansion bottle. It seems from the manual that the Sigma engine has the connection back to the top of the radiator and the Duratec doesn't? On the Duratec it goes straight from the expansion bottle to the back of the block.
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Thanks chaps, checked it out some more tonight and on the engine side next to the top hose connection the crimping is not that good and dampness can be seen for 75mm from the connection out over. 25mm at the other end same side does not look that good. Not sure what tool does the crimping and how it is supposed to get a good grip near the hose connection but it certainly hasn't in this case. Hopefully coming to some arrangement with Caterham on an all alloy replacement. They have been good on it so far.
