Luegonigel

Screwdriver used for fear of crushing all the plastic tee pieces, connections etc. I could get a bit more on a few of them but not that much. Problem is I can't seem to see whereabouts it is coming from apart from the top the radiator somewhere. The connection there is easy to get at with a screwdriver to get it tight.

Anyone with experience of the plastic top and bottom radiator? Symptom, coolant sprayed over top of engine, dripping from somewhere onto steering rack. Couldn't find a specific leak. Radiator changed out for new plastic one as all aluminium one out of stock and was supposed to going to Picos in it so needed it in a hurry. Picked it up after change the day before going to Picos, less leak and spray but still a problem. Went in Audi instead ☹️ Got back, dried and cleaned everything, nipped up all the jubillee clips everywhere, five mile run an still the same. It seems to be from the top hose connection area at the passenger side of the radiator. Can't see a leak from the joint between the plastic bit and the aluminium bit, although it may dry super quick due to the heat? Could I have got two duff radiators? Any ideas or suggestions? Have others had similar symptoms or has it been more obvious what the problem was? Weather in Scotland now fab which makes it worse!

I understand from Caterham that:- - the lambda sensor comes into play at lower revs - after lower revs, the ECU defaults to running on the fixed map in the ECU where lower and higher is, I forgot to ask.

The power of Blatchat strikes again...tis I, just getting to know the Sigma 150 and its slight issues. Hopefully if we get to the Picos next week, see how it goes, we can get it on a rolling road a few weeks later. By the sounds of it though, this engine and throttle body combination is never going to be the smoothest. Next issue is to know how to measure the oil level properly as it has the Apollo tank. Measure when running, not running, when cold etc. when cold oil between the two marks, but as soon as you put dipstick back in, every time it is well above top mark.

- used the vintage carb ballancer from the 1950s to check what was happening. Using this, each pair of throttle bodies seemed to be balanced but the forward pair were way down on the rear pair. The scale on the ballancer is 0 - 10, the rear pair were oscillating between 6-8 and the front pair between 1 and 3. Balance bar adjusted to suit and a short 5 mile run seemed to show the car as running much better. - I bought a spare Lambda sensor in preparation for going to Spain next week and took the opportunity of changing that out too. The car went on an emissions analyzer after that and seems to be performing well. The end of the old sensor was very black and sooty. There was also a lot of water in the sensor connector. - now just the task of getting the radiator and fitting it before next weekend with three days in Norway in between!

Hi, the car is registered 2009, now 13,000 miles, I've had it for the last three thousand miles. I'll ring Caterham and see how you tell which map is installed. Idle adjusted this evening with the screw on the throttle quadrant, now runs with lights on no bother. Driving home 50 miles, the car seemed to drop down to what felt like three cylinders, rubbish between two and three thousand revs, higher than that it made progress to get home. My last k series stopped completely and I later found out it was a bad earth where all the earth cables collect on one bolt next to the ECU. Will check plug leads and the earth leads in the morning. ....and my plastic radiator started to leak today, will I make the Picos in Spain in a weeks time?

Not being fully up to speed with these things, so:- - There is a little black box next to the ECU, that is the map holder? Presumably an EPROM with the engine map in it? - I am guessing that there is nothing you can adjust on these things, once you get the map that is it? Or do clever people with laptops adjust various parameters using the pre-installed map as a base - as above, you can't tune these things, they are as they are? Couple of issues with the car:- - hunts a lot on light throttle say 30mph in town in 3rd.....solution may not be to do 90mph through every town - tick over not enough to run car with headlights on - could generally be smoother

Sigma 150 SV exhaust cut out photos - wheels and tyres 195 x 45 x 15 CR500 - height under sump now 105mm, sump relatively level (side to side), engine canted over a bit with the mounts in as new condition - with the front Bilsteins screwed pretty much right up, the height under the chassis rails under the back tube of the front wishbone is 145mm - can't see how you can get 150 to 190 under the front chassis rails with Bilsteins as it says in the manual page 69. - the rear has been adjusted up to 165 ish where the rear A frame joins the chassis, the manual calls for 15mm difference front to back. Took quite a bit of faffing to get it somewhere near and equal at both sides - all measurements without anyone in the car. - top tip for changing passenger side engine mount is (with car on axle stands and engine with jack underneath it), try the bolts in the engine block to make sure they screw in easily by fingers, put the chassis bolt of the new mount in first, this allows the engine and mount bolts to be lined up easily using the jack, put the mount bolts in nearly all the way by fingers, may need to jiggle the jack up and down a bit, if this is not done and the engine rests on the bolts, good chance of stripping the threads. For the top bolt into the engine, buy a 150mm long 6mm Allen key (I happened to have one otherwise I wouldn't have known) this allows you to get your hands on it from the top of the engine as it stick out from under the induction system. - 6 hours work doing the engine mount and playing about with the suspension.

See here http://www.blatchat.com/t.asp?id=230556 for my experiences of this last weekend and yes I'll be getting on the garage floor tonight or tomorrow instead of typing!

no damage to sump except a small amount pre-my ownership. There has been a rattling noise at 2,500 revs since I got it, sounded like a bolt behind the dashboard vibrating out, couldn't find it. Top bolt was missing from engine mount, bottom rear out a couple of threads as mentioned so it sounds like that may have been the cause then the bracket split across the weld.

Hi, what has everyone got as a clearance under the sump of their Sigma SV? Mine is 55 mm but my old K series was 70mm. In addition what heights have people got under the chassis in front of the rear wheel arch and also at a defined point at the front of the car? I assume height adjustment is just on the adjustable platforms on the Bilsteins?

Well done Steve, just returned from a fabulous IOM TT, highly recommended if you haven't been, passenger side engine mount completely sheared off. Top bolt missing, bottom rear bolt worked its way out a couple of threads, remaining bolt at front still tightish? There are spacers 5mm thick on the driver's side engine mount between the block and the mount, are there on yours? There were no spacers on the passenger side. I can never get the links to work properly so cut and paste job into browser unfortunately. http://s295.photobucket.com/user/nigel_simpson/library/Engine%20mount?sort=3&page=1

Gents, any chance of a few photos of exhaust cut out plus dimensions. My car has rattled since I got it second hand three months ago, just noticed to pipes hit the top of the cut out.

Fine sunshine forecast 50 miles inland, filled up with Morrison's finest unleaded after 20 miles, drove another 50, and the car started kangarooing on any sort of light throttle, 2,000 to 4,000 revs. Checked car out, only external sign of anything wrong was a hole in the sleeve of the exhaust lambda sensor cable, couldn't see whether the damage had gone through to conductors. Rather than drive round twisty roads home, did a 30 mile dual carriageway run at 70 mph. Slowing down for a roundabout then pulling away, the car was fine, the tank was then back down to less than quarter full. Filled up with BP super unleaded, drove 50 miles home, car fine on any sort of throttle the whole way. The car does hunt a bit anyway at 30 mph in town on light throttle in third. Any ideas? Car is 150 Sigma, 3 years old 12,000 miles

Turned out it was the relay which was gone. Had spare relays but they were bit too large to fit. Found oil pressure gauge was not illuminated. The bulb holder was missing from the harness. Top tip for all of the above was a mirror and a decent light.

Thanks chaps, yes I have a multi-meter....just need the instructions on how to open the box! Good idea on the clicking relay, will get my ear trumpet out. Re fiddling, yes I was having a quick fiddle the other day trying to find the indicator buzzer (which didn't seem to be), what does one of those look like? Will take the cover plate off and get behind the switches at the weekend. In addition the bulb seems to have fallen out of my oil pressure gauge.....can't find the end of that either....all in all, retire to a darkened room and return with a bit more patience another day!

Hi, I have a 2009 Sigma 150 headlights don't work. Side lights fine on rocker switch. Headlight main beam works fine when holding the flash switch down. First trip out at night with car and had to drive home holding it down. Main and dip beam fuses ok. No dip beam when switching lights on with rocker switch. No main beam when using main/dip switch. As you may have guessed, non electrical person.

Had similar problem, turned out to be corrosion of the small earthing wires under the ECU mounting posts. Took the bolts out, cleaned the lugs on the wires, cleaned the threads...........perfect! Happened after it was stood for a while too.

Yes thanks Ian and mail sent back. Glad to hear the same issues have been had by others. I'll report the feedback to Tecstar in a positive manner.

Hi, a few intercom lessons learned. I got an all singing and dancing Starcom digital with bluetooth adapter. The little box has all sorts of connections for iPods etc. to be plugged in. First mistake was to buy the PRO-002 boom mikes. No helmets used just wooly hats. here As can be seen from the above photo (not me, not that much hair!), the ear piece locking into the ear provides the only support for the boom. Found that it would not lock in to my wifes ear lobe enough and the boom kept moving. The mikes are very sensitive to position so the fact that the boom kept moving rendered them hopeless a few minutes after first fitting. Then bought a throat mike SH-045 to try it out, what a revelation, vastly better. Bought another throat mike, job done. here Sadly couldn't return the boom mikes (£100 each) as they are classed as "in ear products" and cannot be returned even though the ear plug bits are removeable and replaceable. If anyone uses the boom mikes and needs some spares, I'm open to offers. They are new and have only been on a couple of short blats to try them out. As an aside after another abortive trial run with the first throat mike when I couldn't get it to work I was told that the extension lead for the throat mike has to be used as the wiring swaps over inside therefore a boom mike extension lead has to be used. The abortive trial run was to Classic Le Mans so a tad frustrating! 1600 mile round trip.

Ta very much, much appreciated.

The ones which go from the outside of the car to the inside please. M10 or M12 x ?? I'm guessing?

Could somebody advise what the thread size is in the Caterham captive nut windscreen support channel please. Ta very much.

I inadvertantly got the aluminium one off Caterham before finding out later on that they do a black one also.......after I had rivetted the alminium one in and fitted the heater. look s a bit naf. Will have to take it out and paint it I think.

Anyone know what size and thread form the two bolt holes are at the front bottom of a K series engine are please. They are the ones which fasten the loom to the front of the engine. Link as http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/nigel_simpson/Caterham%20general/IMG-20120712-00463.jpg