Midas

According to 'Caterham Sevens' by Chris Rees: RI - Rover K Series (pre-1992) RJ - Rover K Series (Post - 1992) So that would fit your engine code

I have a Driver's Side Clamshell that is surplus to requirements. It is standard Caterham Yellow, and has a small mark about halfway down on the edge. Thus not for the perfectionist, but I hate the idea of throwing it on the tip ☹️ I'm located in Bristol - collection only

Cheers all - now all i have to do is fix the leak from the sandwich plate that goes to the Apollo!!!

Afetr a bit of reassurance. I need to replace my oil filter this afternoon, so with no Rover dealers open I just popped to halfords for one. car is a 2000 My K Series VVC Roadsport. They listed a HOF 213 or a Champion B104 - but... the Halfords Guide shows the HOF 213 as not beign suitable for a VVC I've checked the archives and looked on the caterham website ande in all occasions there is only one generic filter listed for the K Series. It's currently fitted with a Rover LPW100081 (originally fitted by caterham) Any ideas?

Second the last comment - I had to change a stuck stat, and getting it out of the engine was a right PITA. So, I decided to bite the bullet and goe for a remote. By the time I priced up a remote stat against buying the bits for a PRRT, there was very little difference and yet the PRRT offered a number of additonal safety advantages. Incidentally, anyone got any pics of their PRRT installation - not sure I've put mine in the best place?

You can buy a remote stat from we'd. However, for me I decided to fit a PRRT instead, which removes the need for the stat. Search the archives and you will see it's a popular mod

Thanks everyone - alloy T-Piece ordered off Ebay - just proves my searching skills need honing - searched ebay but didn't come across this listing Thanks Richard

just finished for the day - thanks for all the info. the longer belt has just done it - although I wish now I had taken more metal off the block - its still all too close for my liking. There's no way I can see to replace the belt with the pipes there! Hope this belt lasts as long as the original (10 years!!!) John, I tried the metro 100 alternator belt, but it was too long - I was hitting the chassis on full tension.

There are apparently four different lengths of alternator belt listed by my local motor factor: 735 mm length 736 mm length 737 mm length. The original belt was a 735 mm belt, and with that fully tensioned ther's about 10 mm from the alternator to the chassis rail. I've bought a 737 mm belt, and will try that (QH QBR5737 Caterham 7 & 21) back to the garage!!!

Thanks John, i have read Angus' notes and also have a copy of your own excellent article - but no amount of fiddling seems to be working. I can see no way of having the pipes through the belt, and having enough play to swing the alternator down after installation to let the belt be replaced. As it is they're all wedged in there. I'll keep fiddling with the union angles but been at it for best part of two days and keep failing ☹️

Thanks for the replies - Grubster I have looked at your helpful photos (and also Angus') before I started. the problem just seems to be that however I fiddle I cannot stop pipe to alternator contact!

Not having a good day! I'm trying to fit the Apollo tank oil filter adaptor plate to the engine, and then feed the pipework through the alternator belt - but no matter how much I fiddle with pipe angles I'm coming up against the same problem Not enough clearance between the alternator and the engine block to take the pipework (specifically the brass unions on the end of the pipes) . With the original belt fully tensioned the two brass pipe to adaptor unions still foul on the body of the alternator, and also on the engine. I want to have at least a small amount of space to stop rubbing. Also, if the belt fails there is no way that it can be replaced without taking off the adaptor plate - no way of releasing the tension. I've also removed metal from the engine rib as per the instructions on blatchat. I'm at a loss. So: Am I looking for perfection and is it just a case of 'they all do that' and the contact between pipe/engine/alternator is a 'characteristic' Or do i get a longer alternator belt (any suggestions) although i have only a few mm til it hits the chassis rail. Or do i have the 'wrong' too large alternator - it's the original. Is it something to do with a VVC engine. Confused of Bristol

CSR T-Piece Try again with link!!!

Right - time to admit defeat! ☹️ I've bought all the bits to install a PRT, but cannot find anyone who can supply a 32mm T-Piece to fit into the top hose. - part number PFK000030 All the LAND ROVER and MGF specialists say its no longer available from them, and E Bay has been a fruitless search. The only ones seem to be from garden pond manufacturers and they won't stand the temperatures. I bought this one from caterham on a recommendation - but its too small in ODCSR Tee Piece Anyone got one where I can get one - or is it time to hit the scrappers???

Thanks Guys - Bricol I have copied your suggestion about a Dowty seal on the drain plug and ordered them from the same E Bay supplier - at 20p each it's a cheap and effective alternative Regards 😬

O.K. I have all the bits for my Apollo installation laid out in the garage - read all the posts and looked at all the pictures - and still cannot work out with confidence how the joints fit together. So some advice please 😬 the little braided hose from cam cover to top of appollo - I assume the little brass washers fit under the nut on the inside of the cam cover (or outside?), and on the other end seals between the tank itself and the screwed in union. The Dowty Seals - I have five? - I assume they go on the four joining unions - two go between the adaptor plate and the screw-in union (to seal the metal to metal joint), and the same the other end to seal the union face to tank joint. Therefore no Dowty seals on the four flexible pipe to screw in union joints. Which leaves one spare Dowty? (a spare?)

thank you all for your advice. i have poured over all the arguments for and against the foam before today - and decided to stick with the caterham advice to retain it. The foam was fitted by the factory at the last big service and has been in the car for about 4 years. When i took off the sump it was fitted between the baffle plate and the bottom of the engine. Incidentally the old foam was in very good condition - no break up and fully flexible. No bits in the pan either.

I've just done this job last weekend - I have a Rover engine manual that is in pdf. Send me your e mail details and I can send you a copy. I found the rear belt the more problematic to do. I needed three hands to get it to fit becasue the rear sprockets are difficult to realign - you need a special tool to hold the sprocket (i fashioned one out of a crowbar). You'll see what I mean by looking at the manual which shows the Rover tool. Incidentally, you are supposed to use a special cambelt tensioner spring for the VVC - I finally obtained one from Rimmer brothers - but like the general wisdom here i found it next to useless and tensioned by hand in the end.

Hi, has any kind gent out there got a pdf electronic copy of the foam baffle replacement guide that was published in Low Flying in Apr 2010? Want to do the deed today - but have every copy of LF except that one - pur it somewhere safe - too safe 😳 many thanks

Thanks Oily - it does seem a bit slack. I understand from the manual that with the VVC you must dispense with the spring anyway - only use it for installation, whereas on non-vvc engines you should leave the spring in place (indeed it's a different spring with a sleeve for non-vvc)

the spring turned up today - and a proper Rover item as well. If it stops snowing I might just try and do the change this afternoon

Steve - E mail sent - I'd like the bleed screw if it's still available 😬

😬Thanks for the replies. I'll drop your friend an E mail

Doors and roof on - spray the lower bodywork and arches with pre-wash and then rinse off with a hose. Then hand wash with two bucket method and a wash mitt. Then rinse off a second time with a hose.

Just in case anyone else is looking for this elusive spring in the future, I found a distributor. Its Rimmer Brothers Part Number ZUA000420 - Spring - Cost 75p they also do the non-VVC version as well