Midas
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Everything posted by Midas
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Two UK-reg cars driving through Beaurains in Arras this afternoon around 2pm. I was going in the opposite direction
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Lowered floors will have been extra at the time of purchase. If you are over 6 ft they make a big difference to your position in the car. I now look through the middle of the windscreen, rather than at the top of the frame. However, before you do anything else get yourself a 'half hood'. It will transform the ownership experience. Almost an essential piece of kit if you plan to use the car in our rainy climate.
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I've changed mine every five years - as well as the cam tensioner. I do about 3000 miles a year, and no trackdays. However, on each occasion I have changed it, I have not seen any wear on the belt that is visible to the naked eye.
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I have a 1.8 VVC built in 2000. It has a Caterham lsd Sierra diff and De Dion rear suspension. I’ve noticed one of the diff driveshaft oil seals is weeping, and spreading oil over the rear of the car. can someone tell me of the part number, seal size or a supplier. Many thanks
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Just seen this thread - slow as always. Ivan, any chance there are some spare brackets left over? Regards Richard
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My car (1.8vvc) is now 17 years old, and done 30 000 miles. All the suspension is original, except the four shocks which I replaced with upgraded Nitrons last year. I have been getting an occasional knock from the rear A frame bush, so have removed the A frame from the car. Both 'race washers' were in a very poor condition, and I suspect that has allowed the frame to touch/knock on the de dion tube. To the eye all the bushes in the A frame seem in good condition. I have replaced the De dion bush 'just in case' which was a pig to remove and inspecting the removed bush it was in good condition. How long do bushes last on a road car - are the trailing arm bushes easy to replace?
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Thanks for the replies - good advice about the jubilees - replaced with stainless today.
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I have a standard Caterham 4 into 1 exhaust system. I assume it's made from 'stainless steel'. As for the exhaust shield/guard it looks like aluminium? Reason for wanting some confirmation is that I want to polish them and the polishing kit has differing compounds for different types of metals. Thanks
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many thanks John for the detailed instructions above. Went out yesterday for the first blat of the new year and noted the speedo not working. Turned out to be the quill which was completely 'chewed up'. Luckily Caterham appear to have stock - otherwise no MOT!
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Thank you to everyone for their helpful hints. In the end I had to use brute force and as such all the components from the top of the filter back to the fuel tank will need to be replaced. Every single joint was seized solidThankfully the parts are on order.
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It is a k series with the in tank pump. I've tried all of above but not the freezing method yet. Still not budging, at either end of the filter.
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Thanks for the help. I was not going to try heat, but thanks for letting me know. I might have to go the full replacement route at this rate. Hope the parts are in stock
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I've tried Plusgas, WD 40 (sorry) and Rustfree, but to no avail. The fittings are those shown on the Alcester racing website - I was following their removal technique http://www.alcester-racing-sevens.com/fuel_filter.htm
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Posting in desperation. The fuel filter on my 15 year old car is the original one. I did try and take it off last year but it was seized solid. I'm determined this winter to change it (for piece of mind), but none of the joints top or bottom of the filter will budge no matter how much release fluid I use. It doesn't help that all the components are easily damaged if too much pressure is used. before I butcher it off and resign myself to replacing all the hoses as well - any good ideas. I'm told not to damage the top brass fuel rail as it is a nightmare to replace. Oh, and how much fuel comes out when you remove it - does it drain the tank through gravity?
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Update - decided to give Magnecor a quick ring for their wisdom - what a bunch of condescending ars*holes. I'm not keen to give them any money! So any other alternatives?
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I thought I might do some preventative servicing this Winter and replace the original ignition leads on my Yr 2000 K Series 1.8 VVC. (coil pack on the engine block on the drivers side of the car) Caterham show 'out of stock' so no luck there. Anyone have the right part number for a replacement set from somewhere like Rimmer Bros or magnecor? many thanks
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The only point to suggest is that the bottom wishbone allen head bolt can seize in the wishbone to the extent you might have to replace the wishbone completely. When I did a similar job last time I ended up having to destroy the old wishbones simply to replace the bearings.
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Doh! Spot on. It never occurred to me that i had to buy the key fob separate from the ignition key! I never stop learning about these cars. Mind you, it might have been a good idea if caterham had posted this useful info on the webpage for the ignition switch
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Mark W, I think your profile photo provides the 'key' to my problem. If you took the head off your key, you would be left with exactly with the style of key I got with the switch. Mine has the two holes that clearly are meant to attach to some type of plastic or billet 'head'.
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I have just fitted a replacement ignition switch assembly which was purchased from Caterham. The problem is that the pair of new keys that came with the switch are very difficult to hold as they have a very small 'handle'. I have drawn a blank with the usual key replacement kiosks who cannot identify the source of the key. I thought the switch came from a landrover defender or other older rover /triumph product. It is stamped 'Newton' on the barrel. Any ideas what the caterham switch comes from?
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Thank you for all the help of assistance - it's what i like about the club. I'm not stuck at this moment - I replaced the broken one with the spare I keep (like so many people). I want to replen the spare one - so I would not want to deprive others of their spare just so I,m covered. if I cannot get one now I'll just hope (should be OK?) that my new cable lasts long enough for stock to arrive at caterham
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My car is equipped with a cable clutch. Redline don't have any in stock
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My apologies if this is on old subject but i got nowhere with the search factility. I'm after a clutch cable for a 1.8 vvc k series (yr 2000). I've tried all the usual suspects but all are 'out of stock'. Anyone know what it is off so i can get one from another supplier. Regards
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i'd be grateful for a second opinion please. Just fitting a radtec radiator to replace the original caterham steel one. I am transferring the temperature sender into the new radiator, and I notice that it is fitted with a large ali washer in the old readiator, but that the redtec plastic protective plug fitted in the radtec on arrival, it had a rubber sealing o ring. So do I put the old plug in with the original ali washer, or with a rubber o ring. Any helpers?
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I'm after one complete ball joint and one ballpoint giator for my MOT. Caterham have the joint in stock but not the gaitor and I would rather purchase both items from one supplier. Problem is I cannot seem to find an Internet supplier. Searches on the part numbers (qr 1798)come up blank. The car is a 2000 yr With wide track front suspension Anyone know of an Internet supplier other than Caterham?
