Midas

thanks for the replies - I'll go for the bulkhead option just another question - I assume the rear of the plug is left exposed in the engine compartment?

Where do people fit their 12v socket - not too keen on the dashboard. All other suggestions gratefully received

I am about to put PPG protective film on my freshly painted rear wings. I have read the instructions but wondered if there were any pearls of wisdom from blatchat that could mean the job being done better/easier/longer lasting? many thanks

Thanks for the replies. Decided in the end to 'bite the bullet' and leave the car with Chris at the Seven Workshop. A long way from me but, much to my surprise I enjoyed the motorway blat up to him and his workshop is a Seven 'goldmine'.

Anyone know of a bodyshop in the Wiltshire area who I could trust my caterham to for a crash repair. i was involved in a rear end shunt, and although the damage does not look too bad, i would want the car repaired by someone who understands Caterhams.

You will be amazed how much rain the HH keeps off you - we drove from Bristol to Scotland in torrential rain - yes we got damp but while you are moving the cabin stays dry. furthermore, my wife and I now find that if we must drive on the motorway the HH offers great protection against the buffeting wind. Wish i'd bought one years ago.

One thing that has not been mentioned to date is weather equipment. the best upgrade i have ever done to a Seven is get a Half-hood. A wonderous piece of kit that turned my car from a toy to an everyday weapon. It makes the full hood obsolete. If you plan to use the car regularly in UK get one

You can tell I've run out of important jobs to do on the car.... Several years ago I moved the tax disc from the windscreen into one of those 'Oxford' motorcycle tamperproof disc holders mounted on the bottom bolt of the front bonnet spring. It's the type with about 8 tiny allen bolts that hold the disc in place. Well I've had enough of it - it is always a PITA to remove each year. I've looked around the car for a more suitable place but nothing jumps out at me. Wondered if there was a clever and ingenious method I'm missing.... 😬

I bought this windscreen as a replacement for my chipped original, but have now discovered that there is a wiring fault which means the heating element does not work. Other than that the polished alloy surround and the tinted glass are in very good condition. Ideal race car spare - or road car if you are not bothered about the heating working. Pick up only preferred (Chippenham M4) - say £80?

Thanks Oily - I have to say that's the best advice I could have wanted 😬 just wanted to hear it from someone who knows what they are talking about

Should have said it is a VVC engine EU2 of 1999 vintage

I'm in Bristol - if there are any clever K series engine gurus who are local then i would be very grateful. That's a good point about the cylinder head removal - I'll look at the K series manual again. Does anyone know if the studs are loctited in - just in case I need to drill and tap.

HELP - Big trouble I think. i was trying to refit the aluminium sump baffle to the oil rail in the bottom of the engine, and have sheared the front oil rail retaining stud - clearly I torqued the nut up too tight. I now need to remove the broken front stud part which remains in the oil rail. How do i do this without removing the engine. A look at the K series manual seems to show that to remove the rail means removing the long cylinder head bolts, and can this be done with the engine sitting in the car. My other alternative is to try and drill and tap the stud out from beneath the car and fit a new one - but without a ramp I guess this is going to be tricky. Or am I faced with removing the engine!!! ☹️ ☹️

*mad*B*gger - stud has sheared - and with not much torque. Big trouble now

Does anybody know where i can find the correct torque settings for the : Sump baffle Plate (aluminium one) Oil Pick up plate to sump baffle plate. Removed the foam at this service but now want to put to all back together. many thanks

Thanks - I'll use a new drill

I have decided to follow the wise guidance of Oilyhands and others, and have decided to dump the foam baffle. I have the photo that shows where the additional holes need to be drilled. just wanted to check - as there are no precise measurements as to where the holes should be drilled am I right in assuming that it doesn't matter where the holes are drilled so long as its roughly in the area shown on the photo? Thought I'd check before I drill!!!

Interesting! the wheels are '96/97 - so quite old although they have never been on the car for more than a few months - in storage since. I'll talk to KN tomorrow.

Fixed I think! I convinced myself that shims etc etc was not what I wanted to do - no one else seems to have this trouble, so went back and checked everything for the umpteenth time. All the wheels foul on this hub - and not on any of the others, so ruled out the wheels. I noticed that the rubbing was actually on the brake line that runs under the caliper - it was proud of the ridge it should fit in - in fact both sides were the sme but one more than the other. Some slight pressure and the brake line is now out of the way. Thanks for all the advice.

Thanks for that explanation - by my readings the nut goes far enough on to be 'safe' although there are still about half the bolt threads that are not being used. This is similar to the other wheels, so I'm happy. It is definitely the wheel - not the weights. I've just been out for a gentle blat with the washers inserted and all is quiet. Still rather not have them there, but can't see any alternative.

the nuts have 1.5 etched on the side of them - this would seem to back up the thread requirement

It's about half the number of threads available in the wheelnut.

I've just replaced the wheels & tyres on my car - it's a 2000 yr Roadsport with big brakes (standard hubs?) original wheels were HPC - 16 inch. The replacements are 13 inch, and were off my old caterham - K&N minilites supplied by James Whiting. out on the road I could hear a gentle rubbing coming from one front wheel. Checked and the brake caliper is rubbing on the wheel inside. I've changed the wheels round but the same result. I've also tried to move the caliper very slightly, but no avail - although all is well on the drivers side with no rubbing - just the front passenger side. To get just the right clearance I was thinking of putting a penny washer over each stud, so it moves the wheel out a fraction and gives the clearance (do both sides of course) However, I'm not an engineer - and am slightly concerned this might not be a safe thing to do. Thought someone here might have more knowledge 😬. Que

Thanks for all the replies. I don't want to replace the sideskins now - that kind of repair only leads to the car off the road for 6 months (been threre and done it). the rest of the car is in fine fettle, so I think I'll try and fill.

Photo If my IT skills are up to much, the link should send you to the tragic scene that greeted me today after cleaning the caterham (must stop doing that - it's too stressful) I've noticed a few pinholes appeared. Simple question. How do I fix - is it a bodywork bodyshop or can these be filled with normal plastic padding and a touch up. Any advice welcomed