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MikeE

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Everything posted by MikeE

  1. MikeE
    Thanks dave and ian ian yes they're the ones in that link so I'll take a look tonight and update on here Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures here
  2. MikeE
    So if a remove the circlip will I still need a press to get it out? Springs are only 4 years old and 5,000 miles so should be fine other than the cosmetic element? Btw they're 275lb which were recommended by Nitron. Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures here
  3. MikeE
    Ian not sure what the NTR type is? They're one way adjustable. I wound the platform allthe way down, pulled the spring down, then the rubber bump stop down the damper rod and the gold retaining collar (which is just below the blue damper adjuster) is loose but won't slip over the internal collar. At the top of the damper rod, where it joins the top colar/adjuster/mount, there's a nut but I didnt want to undo it without knowing the consequences Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures here
  4. MikeE
    Ok thanks again. So tonight I've failed to even pull the rubber bush out so going to get some new hacksaw blades tomorrow and cut inner sleeve, bush and outer sleeve out in one go so two more questions. The lower wishbone sperical joint thing seems to be fine with no signs of wear however I guess I need to get it out before powder coating the wishbone? How do you get it out? Is there a circlip holding it in place? Second question, the springs are also showing signs of gravel rash so should I get them powder coated too or will this just flake off? Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures here
  5. MikeE
    As Ive removed the wishbones, wing stays and arb to get them re-powder coated I thought I'd get the springs sorted too. How how do you remove the springs? The adjustable platform looks like it can be remove by unscrewing it all the way down but the base of the damper is a larger diameter than the threaded bit....any ideas? Also is it wise to power coat the springs or will it just flake off? Thanks! Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures here
  6. MikeE
    Mic would you sell the starter separately and if so how much? Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures here
  7. MikeE
    Now I confused! I could press it out using the socket and bolt method? If you remove the out sleeve from the wishbone then does the powerflex bush just sit in the wishbone or does come with it's own sleeve? Mav I'm also confused by your comment (maybe it's been too heavy a weekend for me 😬) You say I should cut it out but you hope not to have to Regardless of my terminal confusion thanks both for advising, keep it coming Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures here
  8. MikeE
    Thanks, following you advice I was going to change to powerflex bushes - do they really make a noticeable difference? If I read you right the method you describe will remove the rubber bush but leave the outer steel sleeve in the wishbone? You're then saying you remove it from the wishbone by first cutting it? Can't you just press it out or was it inserted into a heated wishbone when manufactured? Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures here
  9. MikeE
    Carl what capacity will the new engine be and what will it rev to? Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures here
  10. MikeE
    Ok Off-side front end now in pieces, only took 1.5 hours or so and no seized parts (but then when I built it I used liberal amounts of copperslip on all bolts). There doesn't seem to be any discernible play in the top ball-joint or the lower wishbone joint and wheel bearings were still packed with grease so I assume they're still ok. As I need to get the lower wishbone joint removed before powder coating I think I'll replace it anyway. Guess the ball joints can be replaced in situ at a later date if I needed to (oh and I remove the top ball-joint using the method described in the latest Low Flying, the first time I've found anything of use in that mag 😳). So next questions are: 1 - how do I remove the rubber bushes from the wishbones? (I can't remember if they were ready assembled when I built the suspension 6 years ago?). 2 - the only bit I couldn't get apart was the steering arm ball-joint where it meets the hub carrier, any ideas? 3 - How can I get the hub carrier to look like new again? Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures here
  11. MikeE
    Maybe Mick Attree could help with the alternator bracket. Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures here
  12. MikeE
    Thanks Mav Thought I'd try and keep this a containable task but just doing to front now, otherwise it'll be off the road all winter again 😳 Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures here
  13. MikeE
    Has no one ever stripped and overhauled there front suspension and can give me a to do list So for starters I'll do this: 1 - strip down and get 4 wishbones and the Freestyle arb powder coated 2 - replace all bushes with PowerFlex (where best to source?) 3 - replace top wishbone ball joint? 4 - replace lower wishbone joint? (I know what it looks like but whats type is it?) 5 - replace wheel bearings? 6 - replace the steering arm ball joint? 7 - replace the steering arm itself (corroded) Question is do I need to do all the above (on a 6 year old, 7,000 mile R400 with 50% track use) and is there anything else I should consider? thanks! Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures here
  14. MikeE
    Hi, its still for sale for the right price but if not then I'll carry on enjoying it, I had intended getting the powder coating done as well as the exhaust polished before I put it up for sale but got a bit carried away! PowerFlex bushes, where do these go? Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures here
  15. MikeE
    I've decided to freshen up the front of my 6 year old, 7,000 mile R400 so will be stripping the front suspension to get the wishbones, anti-rollbar, springs etc powder coated. So while I have it in pieces what parts should I look at checking/replacing/adjusting? Any step by step instructions would be much appreciated along with where to source the parts (if there's cheaper alternatives to CC). I also have Nitron 1 way adjustable dampers which are 5 years old and have covered arounf 4500 miles (50% track), any views whether they they need to be checked over by Nitron? TIA Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures here
  16. MikeE
    Its turbulance surely, there's not going to be a steady state pressure gradient in the cabin? No doubt there's a difference in pressure in the cabin and under the floor which would exert lift on the floor. Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures here
  17. MikeE
    Danny probably worth explaining why you wanted a hugely powerful caterham on 6 rims, explains why a sequential wasn't appealing at the time Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures here
  18. MikeE

    MikeE replied to MikeE's topic in For Sale

    Edited by - MikeE on 3 Apr 2011 17:08:08
  19. MikeE
    Demon tweeks did some aluminium ones when I looked a few years back.... Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures here
  20. MikeE
    Mad Hatter, Not sure of the sort of spec you're after but have been toying with the idea of selling my 2004 R400 Duratec, subject to what you're after I could possibly remove the engine and gearbox and sell you the rest. Take a look at the link below and let me know if this is of interest cheers, Mike Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures here
  21. MikeE
    Mad Hatter - what sort of power, torque and revs do you think this new engine will make? You know DannyLT has already been down the 2.3L, 2.4L and finally 2.2L route and reckons the 2.2L was the best of the 3 variants. I assume you putting your 2.4L in a superlight chassis? Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures here
  22. MikeE
    They haven't put them in the R500 just the 2.0l version 🤔 Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures here
  23. MikeE
    Thats the 'Mic' spec tank, I have it fitted to my Duratec Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures here
  24. MikeE
    the question ofDuratec oil temperatures has come up at regular intervals in the 6 years since I built my Duratec R400. As Nicolas says the previous Duratec owners have reported difficulty in getting the oil up to temperature, in the winter on the road it can be difficult to get it up to 60c and on track I've never had either my 226bhp 2.0l Raceline Duratec or 280bhp 2.3l Raceco Duratec (both dry sumped) register over 95c so Caterhams statement that the Duratec likes to run hot seems at odds with the majorities experiences. Nicolas, I'd suggest you give Peter at Raceline a call to discuss your requirements Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures here
  25. MikeE
    DaveJ evidently so, my mate was less than impressed having upgraded from an R400D to R500D to try and keep up only to find in power terms he's still way off, the fact he had a six speed sequential and no passenger made it even more depressing! Saying that he does have a Cat and airbox fitted. Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures here
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