simonhar

Started my Caterham ownership with the standard Avons , hated driving it when wet but then changed to AO21- transformed the car both dry and in rain. Now need to replace the rear AO21s .but unsure if to go with what seem like standard tyres such as the Rainexpert or to stick with more 'track' like tyres such as the Nankang.Want to stick with 14 inch so limited choice and only a standard 1.6 k motor. Seem to be one review on ChitChat of the Nankang but this doesn't make a clinical trial--. Any other thoughts?

My cars rear wings are stone damaged, mainly on the front outside edge which is not protected by the guards. The gel coat is chipped so in small areas its down to the fibreglass and is transparent.I can get an aerosol to match the colour butwhat should I prime with and what type of paint should i get? Should be easy unless fibreglass creates special problems ??

Hi I have a standard 1.6 K- it starts first press of the button when cold then runs at a fast idle for about 10 seconds. It then 'slows', becomes lumpy as if on 3 cylinders and needs some throttle to keep it running. Pulling away at this point is difficult, but the problem goes away in a few minutes of driving. The problem sometimes reoccurs when warm. Any ideas? A simple fix? Edited by - simonhar on 2 Mar 2009 10:33:26

Maybe a cowl would help cooling of the K series, increasing the area through which air is pulled in. Presumably would fit.

Checked the voltage -thats fine. I just get the impression that the fan does not pull enough air through. I presume a more efficent radiator would compensate for this but there seems to be a body of thought that the standard set up should be fine. Can radiators get less efficent as they get older? Is this an early sign of HGF failure(no steam or obvious coolant oil mixtures) I note that the new models have a cowling to increase the area'swept' by the fan

It seems to do it more frequently in the last couple of years- I replaced the fan last year with a slightly higher spec(same dia) and its pulling air through the rad.Some of the hoses were replaced this year with a 74 stat being put in. I presume the mesh stonegard doesn't effect air flow by much? the sender seems to give temp readings that agree with the stat opening anfd the fan coming on.

car is standard 1.6 k SV, selfbuild 5 years ago. Cooling system works, thermostat 74c seems to opn, temp goes down- fan comes on at correct temperature but usually stays on with little reduction in temp. If I am in a traffic jam over a period of 15 mins or so the temp hits 100 and sometimes higher. Get moving again and temp drops to a constant 80. So the car never overheats on trackdays or when moving. This would suggest to me that the air flow through or the efficency of the radiator is not sufficent in traffic and therefore needs a bigger better rad. Caterham claim that the standard system is sufficent in any situation and there must be a fault, but given what seems like a normal working pattern of all the components except when ging slowly I don't see where there could be a fault. There is no air in the system! Should I get a bigger rad?

Quick question- is a 15" wheel with a CR500 tyre the same overall diameter as a 14" wheel with the standard Avon factory fit tyre?

Are longer wiper blades available for SV models. My replacement blades seem to be 1" too short compared with my old ones?

following a track day in my 1.6 k sv I now get a judder from the transmission that vibrates the whole car on take off in first and reverse. Worse on hill starts; cured by using lots of clutch slip, but the rest of the gear changes and forward progress is all normal. Any ideas?

Will I notice much difference in handling if I change the rear roll bar linkages on my SV to the 'harder postion' holes in the link arms?

I bought a battery cut out switch which fits on to the negative post of the battery and has a removable screwed knob which breaks the circuit. It is designed as a security device if you take the srew completely out but I just undo it a few turns to isolate the battery-easier than unbolting the leads and it stops the battery going flat. It seems to work well but looks crude and it was cheap. I got from Fost equipment- www.frost.co.uk

Has anyone had any experience with the device that has been mentioned before, which disconnects the battery when it drops below a certain voltage leaving enough to start the car?

My roadsport 1.6 SV (home built 2 years ago) has developed at times noise and vibration through the steering column. This I have tracked down to the column rubbing against a crossmember in the cutout at the driver end of the pedal box at the point where the column leaves the 'cheese wedge'. The column was never very central in the furthest pedal box plate requiring some work to get this plate and the gromment central over the column. It looks like all that is neede is to move the plate that holds the far end of the steering tube(as it goes through the firewall) a few mm although this does have some rivets in it which holds the 'shelf' in front of the fire wall that supports the heater and battery. Has anyone else had this problem?

Thanks- I suppose as the steering feels free when the weight is of the car and moves easily when it is rolling my may concern is with the lack of self centering.

I have completed 2k miles in my self built 1.6K SV with no problems- a friend drove it recently and pointed out that the steering does not centre.I had noticed this but with fantastic handling I had assumed this was normal for a Seven. The steering does not feel stiff- does this rule out a rack problem(as in earlier posts)? The castor angles I assume should be 'right' as it is assembled as per guide and has been checked at its post build check. Any ideas?

I have an SV- the only way my wife can drive it was to move the seats mounts forward by an inch and also have the pedals in their nearest position. This was fine except for the throttle pedal which ended up to high of the floor. This is not helped by the pedal part of the lever being half the length of the other pedals. I have soved this by bolting a strip of metal around the throttle pedal making it the same size as the brake and clutch. It now is at the same level and much easier to drive

I have an SV- the only way my wife can drive it was to move the seats mounts forward by an inch and also have the pedals in their nearest position. This was fine except for the throttle pedal which ended up to high of the floor. This is not helped by the pedal part of the lever being half the length of the other pedals. I have soved this by bolting a strip of metal around the throttle pedal making it the same size as the brake and clutch. It now is at the same level and much easier to drive

I have an SV- the only way my wife can drive it was to move the seats mounts forward by an inch and also have the pedals in their nearest position. This was fine except for the throttle pedal which ended up to high of the floor. This is not helped by the pedal part of the lever being half the length of the other pedals. I have soved this by bolting a strip of metal around the throttle pedal making it the same size as the brake and clutch. It now is at the same level and much easier to drive