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Posts posted by John Gaines
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Can I have second option on the screen.
Thanks, John
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In the car park at lunchtime today. I was with Mrs G and the little ones hence in an estate!
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A while ago I purchased a set of carbon front wings from a chap on pistonheads. When placed over my original caterham ones they are about 140mm longer, hence wrap around a lot more. They seem to look a bit odd when viewed from the side, I don't know the manufacturer. The diameter is about the same as my 13" caterham ones. Is this standard?
Regards, John
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Ivan hope your return trip was fine, have sent mail
Regards, john
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Have mailed you back
John
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My nephew is just about to advertise his Honda cbr 125. 22,000 on clock some fairing damage but runs very well. It is a 53 plate. Not sure of price, but he just needs to move it on. Bike in Burwash E sussex. Mail me if interested
Regards, John
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Nigel, My car is a 1997 live axle with the tube running across the front. I have a 2 litre black top fitted. It is tight but does go, I have to remove the crank pulley to fit the engine. I used a Raceline idler pulley and made up my own tension system (which has worked for over 8 years ) If it helps I can send some pictures later when I get home.
John.
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Decided to bite the bullet and remove the diff to replace the leaking oil seal. When I undid the prop to diff bolts I noticed that the oil was in fact comming from the join between theese two parts. This is why the diff leaks over a period of time when the car is stationary. I have been over filling the diff (english with quaife lsd). Can I just resolve the problem by using jointing compound between the two surfaces? Or is there another problem that needs sorting?
John.
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I have a low back black GRP seat sitting in my garrage. Can sort out some photos later if you wish.
TN19 area
John
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Looking to replace the nose oil seal on my English diff. Is it possible to replace the seal without taking the diff out? I have looked into the marking of the nut to go back to the correct pre load etc. Just thinking of time but do not want to cut corners
Thanks, John
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Many thanks for the replies.
My swirl pot does have a return to the tank so that is not a problem. Reading the replies I get the impression that I could place my high pressure pump ( currently at the side of the engine) next to the fuel tank rather than use an internal one? What fittings would I need on a solid fuel line as it would be running at a high pressure?
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Mic I would be interested if it is near me, East Sussex
Thanks John
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I currently have a Zetec with swirl pot and high pressure fuel pump in the engine bay. I am not so keen on all the extra plumbing and a spare 2 litres of petrol sitting in front of me. The question is can I modify the original tank to take a high pressure pump or would it just be easier to put an injection tank in. What are the cost implications of an injection tank? Has anyone here modified their tank?
Thanks John.
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Mine arrived tuesday, many thanks for your efforts Richard a top product!
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Can I have one if there are any left please?
John
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Can I take these please?
Will mail you
John
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A bit of a long shot. I am on the look out for some aluminium tent poles for some Vango 300 range tents. Any poles would be a bonus as I can change the lengths in the workshop.
The type would be around 8mm curved similar to the Vango hurricane range.
A new set is a bit on the expensive side
Regards, John.
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I would be interested in a set depending on price
Many thanks John
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Trying to sort out a damp issue in the shower where I need to stick some plastic board to concrete and a stone shower base then cover plastic with tiles. Any recomendation for a mastic gun adhesive? Or any makes to steer clear of?
There should be no ingress of water as surfaces will slope downwards and have sealent on the edges.
Regards, John.
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Following my Brise starter thread I have been checking through the wiring around the staryer and master switch. My starter feed passes through the master switch, should it be a direct heavy lead to the battery? This would make more sense to me as it does not compromise security/ safety but allows a direct connection to the battery.
John
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Thanks fot the replies. I have had my starter for quite a few years with no problems. Just every so often it responds with a click, usually on a hot day when the engine is very hot. No problems at dunsfold when it had a fair thrashing. I will give the solenoid a clean and check the fat cables as well as fabricate a heat shield
John.
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I have a Brise starter on the zetec. Every now and then (3 or 4 times a year) usually when it has been hot it will fail to turn over. There is only a small audiable "click" no engagement to the flywheel. You bump start the car then next time it is fine.
Any pointers as what to check or clean? Any tips on dismantling the solenoid etc?
John
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We gave the car some beans at Dunsfold last week and all seemed fine.
Had a bit of an engine wash out / clean up after I came home.
Today the oil pressure readings were rather strange. The gauge was low after the engine had warmed up but not in the red, then as I coasted or the engine ticked over the reading rose On the way home it was similar. It seems as if the sender has a mind f its own. The pressure reading does not rise always with the revs, yet when I came home the gauge was in the low at tick over (very low). The engine sounds very sweet, with no clunking or grinding noises.
I hope that it is a sender / gauge problem?
But if I had swept the bearings on the day would I have known at the time?
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Can anyone recomend the correct antifreeze for a 2 l blacktop Zetec?
Also recomendation for flushing out, just water or flushing agent?
Many thanks, John
Post 1986 chassis images.
in TechTalk
Posted
I have a 1997 chassis with the straight tubes. I have a 2l blacktop zetec inside. You will need to remove the front pulley and the angle will be steep when you put the engine and box in but it will go. tape the top tube to protect it. There are only a few mm in it.
Regards John