JP

Can't speak for the 4pots but mine came in a blue mintex box, labelled "c-tech racing pads". The M1144 is tagged on to the end of the part No. on the big sticker on the back/bottom of box. James

Andy, Car is a '99 - probably EU2. It definitely sounds rough on start after battery disconnected, but only for 10-20 seconds. After that it runs beautifully. Car has the standard rover immobiliser for the K series. James.

I've got a shell (1984) and loads of other bits.

Just had big red key fitted. Does anyone know if the ECU / immobiliser suffers from repeated disconnection of the battery? Car is a 1.6KSS. The engine is obviously rough when first started after the switch has been off. I thought it would serve as an additional theft deterrent, but am now concerned about disconnecting all the time. I also don't like leaving it in, in case someone decides to nick the key! Help! James.

I'm under the same impression as Graham. Rob, What's the point in having the Apollo alone (no dry sump) if it makes no difference to surge? If there is no point please let me know asap as I'm about to have one fitted!!! James.

Definitely worth the upgrade. I have 4-1 with cat at present. That made an obvious difference to the torque curve. I went 4-1 in order to hang on to the cat for MOTs but plan to have a 4-2-1 collector and cat free silencer made soon. James

I think that the requirement relates to the need for indicators to be visible from the side. The are some testers that have better vision than others it seems when looking for the light.

Quick question about the FIA bar: I need to have the leather seats in my 7 and I need to have them as far back as possible. Can they go all the way back or does the headrest foul on the bar/crossbar? James

I want to know whether the car has been on a track. I don't expect to be told by a salesman that "3000 miles is 3000 miles" when I ask if they're road or track miles. You need to know that if a car has been raced/tracked that it has had the appropriate care and attention.

We should have some system of exchanging useful info about car histories. The dealers are rarely of any help - why should they be? I looked at a car at Caterham when buying mine which the salesman seemed very vague about in terms of history. (Even more annoying in retrospect as I can imagine that I must have come across as a real novice and in need of genuine advice rather than someone to be taken to the cleaners.) The car in question had apparently been a Caterham ?press car and therefore I expected them to know its history. Needless to say after a bit of research I decided not to buy, mainly because I felt they had been cagey about it. It was a well specced car for the money (and it was probably OK) and if they had been a bit more open I may have accepted the history and bought it anyway, as it was my trust was lost.

Rob, The price doesn'y include manifold as I already have that. It makes the full system price about £600. I not planning on having to rely on luck!

I'd second that. I'm expecteing to pay £250 - £300 for a 4-2-1 collector and s/s silencer.

blo498, I think you'll probably struggle to find hard data about bhp difference. The big difference is in the torque curve. If yours is standard like mine I found that there was little power below 4000-4500 revs. First drive with new exhaust was an eye-opener. The power comes in about 1000 revs earlier (or at least that's what it feels like)! The whole engine seems to rev much more freely. It is worthwhile upgrade. I have the standard ECU in mine (1999 probably EU2). I've kept the lambda sensor in one of the primaries in side the engine bay. I've been told it is ideal to have the sensor at the junction in the collector but this means it has to be outside the car - ugly and bound to be broken. I have kept the cat because I'm unsure about emmisions rules and my first MOT comes up shortly. There is not enough room to have a long primary exhaust with 4-2-1 collector and cat down the side of the car. Therefore I've had my exhaust made for me (cheaper than caterham). I've got a 4-1 into my cat'd silencer but wold like 4-2-1. I had the manifold made such that the pipes emerge from the engine bay in the right arrangement to take off the 4-1 collector and replace it with a 4-2-1 collector and cat free silencer. (Certain pipes need to be paired for the 4-2 bit.) The plan is to have a second lambda takeoff at the collector. In response to an earlier thread oilyhands suggested that you only need the lambda for ECU setup - it that then be removed (with the M3DK). When I get my Emerald ECU this what I'll do and blank off both lambdas. Oh, yeah - my custom s/steel manifold was £350 fitted. Hole in the sideskin needed some tidying, otherwise job was a good'un.

Not sure what the numbers are relating to changing the exhaust, but the change to the torque curve was immediatley obvious with mine. The engine instantly came alive. James.

I've heard much the same as Locust - I considered it when I had my manifold made but was advised (by the chap who would have sold and fitted the wrap) that unless you really needed that extra (debatable) bit of power the life shortening effects on the manifold made it not worthwhile.

Simon, It's watson's rally I think. I've already enquired, again not a cheap job if you want the higher spec. I've got a contact e-mail address somewhere if anyone's interested. James.

I've found the article - it's in the Feb 2002 edition of "MINI" magazine. Sounds like a nightmare of a conversion (round front) but I bet it's bloody good fun!

The local Halfords have stopped getting in Autosol and have replaced it with the "all new *PEEK*". I've bought some and tried it - ridiculous amounts of elbow grease required (possibly because it's not been cleaned since Nov 2001) but the end result is good. A few small pits but all the salt markings have gone. Slightly amusing moment when an elderly neighbour came over whilst polishing. She saw the tube of polish and said "Oh, PEEK, I use that to polish my knockers!" (presumably of the door variety). Only thing that kept me cheerful while slicing my fingers on the cheese grater (bonnet louvres).

Masha, There was an article recently (within the last 4 or 5 mths) in one of the mini magazines about a 1400K fitted mini. Can't remember if it was clubman fronted - I think it was a normal front. I think it is a conversion that's not for the faint hearted! If you fit yours, let me know how you get on - I'm building a mini at the moment which currently has MG metro block - not sure what to do with it.

I've just put 14" 21's on my road wheels - about £52 +vat frpom polley motorsport.

I need to fit an Apollo ( or similar system) prior to heading out on track days )(in my own 7 for a change Richard!) Is this a simple DIY fit? I'm fairly competent mechanically - although I didn't build my 7 I have rebuilt another car from a bare shell. If it's a question of just bolting it in that's fine but if it involves any thing more complex, I might trust it to someone else. Is it a big job, in terms of cash, if I pay someone to do it? James.

Chris Gale, I know that Richard Ince has "a garage full" of "half-worn" 032R's which he's looking to sell on - send him an e-mail. James. (Any chance of some commission Richard???) Edited by - jp on 3 Feb 2002 23:22:08 Edited by - jp on 3 Feb 2002 23:22:54

Ooops! Saw the title of the thread and thought you needed medical advice!

I've got 14" 21's and 13" 32's. Both are great! 21's are a good all round tyre. I think most would agree that the 32's are better in the dry and some claim that they are as good in the rain. Whatever, the 32's are definitely "trouser-changing" in standing water! I got mine from George Polley. Almost half the price of the best deal locally, good service and next day delivery! James.

Thanks P.C.! I knew I was right.