JP
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Everything posted by JP
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Didn't cost me that much when I had mine serviced earlier this year. £400 (inc vat) bought me 12000 K series service and big red starter button and battery cut-out switch supply and fitting. And the job was excellent too.
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Steve, Does that mean you're selling your FIA bar??!
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I smashed up my oil filter housing while running on the 14's - just take care.
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Have both. I've got 32rs on 13" for summer and 21rs on 14" (they came with the car) for winter / touring. I use my car all year and although the 32rs are great, I wouldn't want to HAVE to have them all the time - standing water can be a bit "trouser-changing".
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Cheers!
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After reading this ,months low-flying I'm thinking about the tall FIA bar. Will the standard hood fit over it?
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Oh, OK...What do the different bolt positions do then? James
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Quick question: can anyone tell me which of the two bolt positions for the leading rod on the rear suspension gives the higher or the lower ride height? James ('99 De Dion)
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My brakes are std except for 1144's and uprated master cylinder. They have a great feel and bite especially when warm. However they can get a bit vague when very hot - has anyone tried grooved and/or drilled std discs and would these help? (1.6KSS) James
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Oh yeah, and plenty of sunblock!!!
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Rob, From experience, a spare sump and 5l of castrol RS can come in handy. (and spare ammo for the bonnet mounted rocket-launcher - essential for the A303 bank-holiday shed-draggers!!!)
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I'm going to need to SVA a car in the near future. Does anyone know of a good and thorough source of info regarding the requirements of SVA - a tester's manual would be the ideal I guess. This isn't a 7 so the guide needs to be broad, not just aimed at 7's. James
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Would the R500 bar meet FIA approval standards - if so how would one go about getting it certified?
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How much? I've been considering going down the roadsports cage route. Anyone know how much these are - both price and weight cost over FIA bar?
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I was watching the touring car racing at the weekend and noticed the MG's. What engines are these running - are they tuned K's and what sort of spec are they? ...Could they be a Caterham option? mmmmmm......
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My experience is the same as that quoted by John. Mike seems very knowledgable and I'm sure my car wouldn't have been tested if it wasn't absolutely neccessary. It seems that SVA is the clincher now rather than if it's older than 1998 etc.
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I agree with allegro. Made a difference on my car and it's free!
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I'm pleased with my Powerspeed one...
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Back to the top - any help please?
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Are the holes cut for BBird/Stack or standard dials? And is still available?
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Julian, I've finally found time to fit a bypass 1A fused wire. Went out to the car today, removed the cover, naively expecting to find a switch with one cable in and one cable out. Unfortunately, there are the 2 big cables from battery etc. and two pairs of smaller cables. Do you just need to bridge the 2 fat cables or are there 3 switches here working independently that all need bridging?? Help, James.
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£60!!! tell 'em to **** off. Do it yourself. I find for the road ~20' toe-in - recommended by Midway Motors. Much more pleasant to drive. It was toeing out slightly before and the lack of stability for road use was becoming irritating.
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Unfortunately you just have to be careful. Also bear in mind that the lowest points under the car are the exhaust and most important the oil filter bracket. The latter is also far more fragile than the sump - I know this from experience!
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Cheers guys, went for S - ordered yesterday arrived this am > excellent service Polley Motorsport! wackydo, 032rs I don't find a problem in the wet so long as there is no standing water. (I have 021rs for the winter)
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Need new 32rs, currently have "S" compound. For predominantly road use, is there an obvious difference between the compounds or if I go with SS am I just buying what will feel like the same tyre but simply wear out quicker? James