IanW
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Everything posted by IanW
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Ian, I'm not sure it's so simple? There's some kind of control module built in to the wiper mechanism that controls it. If I create a simple momentary link to the slow speed wipe surely all this will do is activate the intermittent mode in the same way as if the switch is activated for a short time? I assumed that was what you wanted - a single press for a single wipe. The momentary switch is replacing the on / off action of the main switch.
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Stu, Are you handy with a multi-meter? You need to find the two wires, that when connected together, start the wiper motor on the slow wipe. Probably easiest to identify by testing the contacts on the switch itself. Then you will need to fit a momentary switch to these wires. This should give a single push-to-wipe function. Pushing the button will start the motor and it will continue to run until the blades return to the 'home' position. Simples . Edited to add that if Caterham use the standard colour codes, Orange should be the live and Orange/Blue the slow wipe. Edited by - IanW on 17 Jul 2012 14:42:13
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Yup! That would have been me. That's two spotted's in a week
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That would be me, on my way back home.
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Not me Paul Allen has orange stripes.
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Had a squeak from my steering column recently. When I replaced the bushes I found that the lower one had come apart and the plastic/nylon insert had parted company from the rubber. Removing the bushes is easy enough - I used the upper part of the column itself to push out the rubber. Getting a new one back in was more of a challenge. Plenty of silicone spray was used to aid the insertion . Good luck.
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Tony, thanks. Any chance you can bring it along to ReHaB tonight?
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Local Whoopee Motor Factors have one for about £9. I'll be popping in at lunchtime .
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OK, thanks for the information. SM25T brake wind-back tool (about £8 from halfords ?) How about £32.99 😳. I'll see if one is available from somewhere else locally that is a bit cheaper.
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The replacement has arrived . The problem now is that the lug on the brake pad does not fit into the notch in the piston 😔. Should it be possible to rotate the piston to make them line up? Or will it 'pop in to place' when pressure is applied?
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Caterham have agreed that the caliper is faulty. I have purchased a new one with the understanding that I return the old unit for a full refund.
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Thanks guys. I'll be in contact with CC on Monday.
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Car was built (by myself) in June 2009. Were the faulty calipers about then?
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Thought I'd fill the car up after my trip back from WightBlat 2012 on Monday. After I'd pulled the car out of the garage I noticed a pool of liquid on the garage floor. Mopped it up as I thought it was left over from my son's car which had been left in the garage while we were away. Went to start the car and noticed the brake warning light was on. Turns out the liquid was from my left rear brake caliper. It has been sitting in the garage since Monday afternoon. After jacking the car up and removing the wheel I took some pictures. Any ideas where the leak may be from as it is not obvious (to me)? The brake pipe and the bleed nipple are still done up tight.
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The lower bolt can be difficult even if it WAS greased on assembly I had to resort to pincers and a big hammer to get one of mine out (car is nearly 3 years old).
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I had good service from PGM (Partridge Green Motorsport).
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With all the trouble I had removing the front dampers, I am definitely NOT going to forget the Coppaslip
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Hi John, Thank you for the suggestion. A look at a friend's SV which was fitted with adjustable platforms when built, shows the lowest slot in use, with the platform itself about halfway up. And just to confirm, moving the platform up raises the car...
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Hi Finally getting around to fitting the Adjustable Platofrom kit from Caterham. I have finished the fronts and kept the same spring length as the originals. Where, on the rear damper, should the circlip be? It looks like the lowest slot is too low and the next one up is too high. For information I have a Roadsport SV 175 with lowered floors.
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Finally sorted 😬 😬 I used a dremel type tool to cut a couple of grooves into the head, clamped the pincers on and gingerly hit with a hammer. It moved but didn't come completely out - until I used a bigger hammer 😬. Thanks for all the suggestions.
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Update: Another couple of hours spent trying to remove the bolt without success. I tried a pair of pincers (circa 1950 😬) but still couldn't get any movement other than rotational. Having inspected the aluminium spacer bush from the other side, I can see that it is scored on the inside from the thread of the bolt. If the same has happened on the one I'm having trouble with and the spacer is 'threaded' on to the bolt and if it is turning freely inside the damper, then this is the reason it won't come out.
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Thanks Chewie, that's just the sort of information I need . Not sure I want to take the whole assembly off though. I'll have another go tomorrow to see if I can't ease it out somehow. Steve - As to the 3mm showing, I checked the other side without the damper in place and the bolt slid in until the same 3mm was left. Only then does it need turning to engage the thread.
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No I haven't. Do you think it will free the bolt from the sleeve?
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I am attempting to remove the front dampers (to fit adjustable platforms) and the right-hand side is proving difficult. The bottom bolt unscrews until it disengages from the a-frame. But it won't come out. There is about 3mm of head showing and no matter how much I pull on it with pliers of mole-grips it doesn't want to come out. I'm guessing that it has 'attached' itself to the bush somehow. Any suggestions.
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Agree with the faulty battery scenario. I had a problem (with a Vauxhall Omega) where the engine would die when the radiator fan came on whilst idling. Just enough voltage drop for the ECU to stop working. Had to keep the revs up until I could get to the garage
