Guy Lowe

I have recently replaced my Lifeline with the GO RACE unit which uses spring loaded balls instead of splines, absolutely no play whatsoever & it self locates which save's having to centre the wheel before removing. I'm very pleased with it and the price is very reasonable as they extend a discount to Club members.

Never bothered fitting the lower two.  45K in 20 years, never had a problem (or dirty knees).   

I don't like (trust) electric oil pressure gauges so converted to mechanical and took the opportunity to fit a combined gauge. Got the complete kit & lots of good advice from Matt at THINK AUTOMOTIVE Also C&LSC members get a discount from Think . THE RANGE OF GAUGES HERE

Another   for Protech, they have a wealth of experience of Caterham's and are very helpful people to deal with. 

A really great, fast & well maintained car 

#10

"I looked but decided to keep the trunnions"

The more I look into this, the more I am leaning towards  doing the same. 

Link https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/14022546

Reply #7

Thanks John I really struggle with the BC search facility so your help is appreciated, a couple of very helpful threads there.

Works even better if you spell it "castor"

 

Seems you can spell it either way but as I was told never to argue with the teachers, you must be right John 

Both out together, much easier IMO

Absolute bargain 

Reply #2

Thank you Steve, yes that's the the thread, I spent hours searching but couldn't find it

This is what concerns me:-

Officially it's only recommended with a change from trunnions to ball joints at the bottom because otherwise the upright is over-constrained, i.e. both the trunnion and the top wishbone try to set the castor, and they might not agree.

So it look like I need to change the lower WB's uprights etc. Better start saving.

I have a 1990 S3 De Dion chassis with trunnions & some time ago I replaced the front top arms (see image) with  standard track top wish bones, new type ARB, new dampers and springs but retained the lower wishbones, trunnions & uprights. I had the car set up by a Caterham race team and everything seems good & I am very pleased with the cars handling on the road and track.

However I have now read somewhere on BC (for the life of me I can’t find it now) that this should not be done as it moves the top of the upright to a slightly different position altering the caster and more importantly, it puts additional strain on the trunnion and lower wishbone trunnion lugs.

Before I consider changing the lower wishbones, dampers, springs and uprights, does anyone have any knowledge of this upgrade or can point me to the post please?

Thanks Guy

 I bought one second hand about 6 years ago & I love it. it's been on the car ever since as I don't use a full screen.

I'm also not convinced it deflects huge amounts but it suits me as I'm only 5' 5" 

I always use 'new and updated' view so I don't see them. 

I have one, wrap it in bubble wrap and tape as it's far too loud and the maximum time before it starts is only 20 seconds which is annoying. JMO 

It was only a fleeting glance but it looked like Michael Calvert trailering WB on A303 past Stonehenge Friday about 16.30. A couple of us were trailering back from a track day at Keevil 

This is like the oil threads 

FWIW I have 185/60/13 & 205/60/13 Toyo R88R and run them at 18 fronts & 15 rears cold for the road but warm when on track.

AFAIK Goodwood, Anglesey, MSV, MSE all insist on full face in open top cars.

Price = as much as you can afford but whatever you buy try it on first. Every ones head is different and there is nothing worse than driving with an ill fitting uncomfortable helmet on, even for 20 minutes.

Interestingly the double post problem is still there 

Great Jonathan, preventative is the iPhone button on right and rectify is a small edit and save  excellent thank you 

P.S . I really should read the other posts beforehand  

Done it, as per Anthonym's tip, on iPhone edit (crop)  the  image and save it then insert  

Prevent it preferably